Western Asia (Middle East)
Phoenician harbours, the largest Roman temples ever built, cedar forests and monasteries in a mountain gorge, and a capital that never stops eating — in a country you can cross in three hours.
Photo: Vyacheslav Argenberg · CC BY 4.0
Lebanon is about half the size of Wales, and in that space it holds an extraordinary run of history. The Phoenicians, who gave the world its alphabet, built their great ports at Byblos, Sidon and Tyre. The Romans raised the biggest temple complex in their empire at Baalbek. The Umayyads laid out a walled city at Anjar, the Crusaders built castles along the coast and the Mamluks and Ottomans filled Tripoli and Sidon with mosques, khans and souks. Christian monks hid from persecution in the sheer-sided Qadisha Valley, beneath the last groves of the cedars that appear on the national flag.
It is also a country of unusual variety for its size. You can swim in the Mediterranean in the morning and ski in the Cedars in winter, or eat mezze in Beirut and taste wine in the Bekaa Valley within the same day. Lebanon has eighteen officially recognised religious communities, and its cooking, its architecture and its politics reflect that. Lebanese food, with its mezze, its grills, its bread and its sweets, is one of the great cuisines of the region.
It is also a country in a hard moment, and this guide tries to be straight about that. Since 2019 the economy has collapsed, the banking system has frozen and electricity is unreliable. In August 2020 a huge explosion at Beirut's port killed more than 200 people and damaged large parts of the city. From October 2023 fighting between Israel and Hezbollah escalated into a full-scale war in the autumn of 2024, with airstrikes across the south, the Bekaa Valley and Beirut's southern suburbs. A ceasefire took effect in late November 2024, but at the time of writing it was fragile and some governments advised against all travel to parts of the country. Lebanese hospitality has not changed, but you should read your government's advice before you book and again before you go.
Where to go
Ordered roughly by how strongly we would recommend each for a first visit, in normal conditions. Beirut, Baalbek and Byblos are the headline places; the south (Tyre and Sidon) and the Bekaa Valley (Baalbek and Anjar) are the areas where advice has been strictest since 2024, so check those first and be ready to skip them.
Beirut Governorate, Mediterranean coast
Lebanon's capital: a dense, cosmopolitan city of Ottoman houses and glass towers, with the National Museum, the Corniche, cafés, bars and a food scene that outclasses its size.
Don't miss A long dinner in Gemmayzeh or Mar Mikhael, after a sunset walk along the Corniche to the Pigeon Rocks.
Explore Destination — BeirutBaalbek-Hermel Governorate, Bekaa Valley
Roman Heliopolis, with the Temples of Jupiter, Bacchus and Venus, one of the greatest monuments of the ancient world — in a part of Lebanon where visiting has been affected by conflict since 2024.
Don't miss The Temple of Bacchus, close to complete after nearly two thousand years, and the six giant columns of the Temple of Jupiter beside it.
Explore Destination — BaalbekMount Lebanon Governorate, north coast
A small, charming coastal town of stone lanes, a Crusader castle and layers of ruins going back seven thousand years, 40 minutes north of Beirut.
Don't miss The Crusader castle above the Phoenician and Roman ruins, with the harbour and the sea behind.
Explore Destination — Byblos (Jbeil)North Governorate, Bsharri District, Mount Lebanon
A UNESCO-listed gorge of cliffside monasteries and caves near the village of Bsharri, birthplace of the poet Kahlil Gibran, with the Cedars of God grove and a ski resort above.
Don't miss Walking down into the Holy Valley to a monastery clinging to the cliff, after a morning among trees that have stood for a thousand years.
Explore Destination — Qadisha Valley & the CedarsSouth Governorate, southern coast
An ancient island-turned-peninsula with major Phoenician and Roman ruins and one of Lebanon's best beaches, in an area where travel has been heavily affected by conflict since 2023.
Don't miss The Roman hippodrome, one of the largest and best-preserved circuses of the ancient world, with a necropolis and triumphal arch beside it.
Explore Destination — Tyre (Sour)South Governorate, southern coast
A relaxed, atmospheric port city, 40 km south of Beirut, with a Crusader sea castle, a well-preserved old town, a soap museum and a lively fishing harbour.
Don't miss The Sea Castle, a Crusader fortress on a tiny island linked to the shore by a stone causeway, with the old harbour and souks beside it.
Explore Destination — Sidon (Saida)North Governorate, northern coast
A large, hard-working and rarely visited northern port city with a Crusader citadel, a labyrinth of Mamluk souks and khans, and the best sweets in the country.
Don't miss The Mamluk old town, one of the most complete in the Middle East, and the sweets at the shops that have made them for over a century.
Explore Destination — TripoliNorth Governorate, north coast
An easy-going coastal town 55 km north of Beirut, with Phoenician and Ottoman remains, a lively harbour, beaches, restaurants and vineyards in the hills behind.
Don't miss Sunset over the sea from the old harbour, with a glass of the town's famous lemonade or a bottle of local wine.
Explore Destination — BatrounMount Lebanon Governorate, Chouf District
A green, terraced mountain region 45 km south-east of Beirut, with Beiteddine Palace, the historic village of Deir al-Qamar, Druze and Christian villages and the Chouf Cedar Reserve.
Don't miss Beiteddine Palace, a huge 19th-century mountain palace of arcaded courtyards, mosaics and gardens, and one of the finest Ottoman-era buildings in the Levant.
Explore Destination — The Chouf & Beiteddine PalaceBekaa Governorate, Zahle District
A UNESCO-listed Umayyad city of arcades, palaces and baths, a short drive from the Ksara and Kefraya wineries — in a border area where visiting depends on current conditions.
Don't miss The Umayyad city's grid of streets, with tetrapylons at the crossroads and arcaded shops, and the snow-capped mountains behind.
Explore Destination — Anjar & the Bekaa Wine CountryExperiences
The experiences that recur across the country and that make a Lebanese trip feel like one.
The six giant columns of the Temple of Jupiter and the almost complete Temple of Bacchus, built over two centuries in the Bekaa Valley, are among the largest and best-preserved Roman monuments anywhere. See Baalbek.
Tip Go early and check the security situation for the Bekaa the day before. The site has been affected by strikes and closures since 2024.
Dozens of small dishes — hummus, tabbouleh, kibbeh, stuffed vine leaves, grilled halloumi — arrive one after the other and are shared. It is how Lebanese people eat at home and in restaurants, and it is best done slowly, with arak.
Tip Order less than you think and let the table fill up gradually.
Trails run down a deep gorge to cliffside monasteries, and a nearby grove holds some of the oldest surviving cedars of Lebanon, some more than a thousand years old. See the Qadisha Valley and the Cedars.
Tip Late spring and autumn are the best seasons. The valley is snowbound in winter.
Byblos, Sidon, Tripoli and Batroun all keep old covered markets of stone arches, soap khans and sweet shops, largely without tourists. Tripoli's Mamluk souks are the most extensive.
Tip Go in the morning, and take cash. Lebanese shopkeepers will often offer coffee before conversation.
Wine has been made in Lebanon for about five thousand years, and the Bekaa Valley, at over 1,000 metres, produces a growing number of serious reds and whites. Wineries near Anjar & the Bekaa Wine Country and Batroun welcome visitors.
Tip Book tastings ahead and confirm the winery is open, since access to the Bekaa has been variable.
Gemmayzeh, Mar Mikhael and Hamra have bars, restaurants and live music, and the Corniche fills at sunset with walkers, joggers and vendors. See Beirut.
Tip The city runs late, and dinner is rarely before 21:00.
Food and drink
Lebanese cooking is built on olive oil, lemon, garlic, herbs, grains and pulses, with grilled and raw meats, fresh vegetables and some of the best bread and sweets in the Middle East. Meals are generous and shared.
Flatbread baked with za'atar and olive oil, cheese, or minced meat, and folded or rolled. It is the classic breakfast and street food.
Where to try it Bakeries throughout the country, particularly in the early morning.
Bulgur and minced meat pounded into a paste and served fried, baked, grilled or raw. Kibbeh nayyeh, the raw version with lamb and spices, is a northern and mountain specialty.
Where to try it Traditional restaurants in the north and in the Chouf.
Arak, an aniseed spirit diluted with water and ice, turns milky and is the drink of a long meal. Lebanese wines from the Bekaa and Batroun regions are increasingly well regarded.
Where to try it Restaurants and wineries around the country, with a meal.
Before you go
The essentials, current for 2026. Lebanon is straightforward to reach and easy to move around, but money, electricity and safety all work differently from most of the world, and details change.
Excludes international flights. Figures are typical rather than absolute — cities and peak season run higher.
When to go
Lebanon has a Mediterranean climate on the coast and a mountain climate above it. Spring and autumn are the most comfortable, summers are hot and humid on the coast, and winters are wet, with snow on the peaks from December to March.
Warm and green, with wildflowers in the mountains and the sea still cool. April and May are ideal for the ruins and for walking, though snow can linger in the Cedars.
Hot and humid on the coast, and pleasantly warm in the mountains. It is the season for beaches, festivals and mountain villages, and the busiest time for diaspora visitors.
Warm days, a warm sea and fewer crowds. The grape harvest in the Bekaa takes place in September and October.
Mild on the coast but wet, and cold in the mountains, where you can ski in the Cedars, Faraya and other resorts. Higher roads can close after heavy snow.
Worth planning around: Periods of political or military tension, and the peak of August, when prices rise and the coast is crowded. Ramadan changes opening hours in less touristy areas.
Trip length
Lebanon is small, and nowhere is more than about three hours from Beirut by road, so most visitors base themselves in the capital and make day trips, or move between two or three bases. Traffic is heavy around Beirut, so distances are longer than they look.
Getting around
Lebanon has no railway and little reliable public transport, so visitors normally hire a driver or a car, or use service taxis. Roads are generally good, but traffic is dense around Beirut and mountain roads are steep and winding.
Sample route
Beirut, the north, the mountains, the south and the Bekaa Valley, with a driver throughout. The south and the Bekaa depend on current advice and can be swapped for more time elsewhere. Covers all ten destinations in this guide.
Culture
Lebanon is one of the most religiously and culturally mixed countries in the Middle East, with Maronite, Greek Orthodox, Sunni, Shia, Druze and other communities living side by side, and often in distinct areas. Beirut and the coast are relaxed and cosmopolitan; the mountains and the south and the north can be more conservative. Etiquette is easygoing, but politics and history are painful subjects.
In Beirut, the coast and the mountain resorts, Western dress is normal. In mosques, in Tripoli, and in the south and the Bekaa, cover shoulders and knees and carry a scarf for women. Swimwear belongs on the beach.
Lebanon's politics are tied to religion, family and foreign powers, and the war of 2024 and the civil war of 1975–1990 are still raw. Listen more than you talk, and avoid taking sides, particularly on Hezbollah, Israel and Syria.
You will be offered coffee, tea, sweets and meals, and refusing a second helping takes some effort. Accepting is polite.
Do not photograph soldiers, checkpoints, military installations or government buildings, and ask before photographing people. Some areas, such as Hezbollah-controlled parts of the south and Beirut's southern suburbs, are particularly sensitive.
Lebanon and Israel are formally at war, and entry can be refused to anyone with evidence of a visit to Israel. Do not raise it casually, and do not carry Israeli products or stamps.
Remove your shoes at mosques, dress modestly at churches and monasteries, and observe local customs during Ramadan and religious festivals.
Travel tips
The things that most often catch visitors out in Lebanon, several of which are specific to how the country works right now.
FAQ
It depends on where and when. Much of the country, including Beirut, the north and the mountains, has been calm for long stretches, but Lebanon has faced economic collapse, the 2020 port explosion and, in 2024, a war between Israel and Hezbollah. A ceasefire in November 2024 was fragile at the time of writing, and many governments advise against travel to the south, the Bekaa border areas and parts of Beirut, with some advising against all travel. Read your government's advice and be ready to change plans.
Six to eight days for a first trip. Three or four days covers Beirut, Byblos and one other excursion, and eight lets you add the north, the Chouf and, if advice allows, the south and the Bekaa.
April to June and September to November. Spring has wildflowers and comfortable temperatures, and autumn has a warm sea and the wine harvest. Summer is hot on the coast, and winter is good for skiing.
Many nationalities receive a visa on arrival, often free for a month, but rules depend on your passport. Entry can be refused to anyone with evidence of a visit to Israel. Check the current rules on official sites.
US dollars, in small clean notes. The Lebanese pound has collapsed and dollars are widely accepted, and the banking system is unreliable for foreign cards. Keep enough cash for the whole trip.
It is more expensive than its neighbours for what you get, mainly because prices are in US dollars and the country depends on imports. Restaurants, hotels and drivers cost about the same as in southern Europe, though street food and local transport are cheap.
The full travel guide covers routes, budgets, regional differences and how to string these ten destinations into a trip that actually works.
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