Bekaa Governorate, Zahle District · Lebanon
A walled city founded by an Umayyad caliph in the early 8th century and abandoned within decades, set among Armenian villages and the vineyards of the Bekaa Valley.
Photo: Bdx · CC BY-SA 4.0
Anjar sits on the plain of the Bekaa Valley in eastern Lebanon, about 58 km east of Beirut and a few kilometres from the Syrian border. In the early 8th century, the Umayyad caliph al-Walid I, or possibly his son, founded a city here, on the trade route between Damascus and the coast. It was laid out on a Roman-inspired grid, enclosed by walls with towers, and it contained palaces, a mosque, baths and arcaded shops.
It did not last long. The Umayyad dynasty fell in 750, and the Abbasids, who took power, abandoned the city, which was ruined by an earthquake and forgotten. Because it was abandoned so soon and never built over, the layout is unusually clear: two main streets crossing at a tetrapylon, lined with rows of shops, and palaces and a mosque behind. UNESCO listed the site in 1984 as an important example of early Islamic urban planning.
The modern village of Anjar was founded in 1939 by Armenian refugees from Musa Dagh, in what is now Turkey, and its inhabitants are still mostly Armenian. Nearby, the Bekaa is Lebanon's main wine region, with the wineries of Ksara and Kefraya. Anjar's position close to the Syrian border has meant that it has been affected by regional tension, and Israeli strikes hit the border area in 2024. Many governments advised against travel to the Bekaa at the time of writing, so check the current situation before you consider going.
Why visit
Anjar is one of the few surviving early Islamic cities, and it is easy to grasp in a couple of hours.
A regular grid of streets, a walled enclosure and monumental gates show how the early Umayyads borrowed from Roman town planning.
Many of the columns and capitals were taken from earlier Roman buildings, and the builders alternated courses of stone and brick in the Byzantine manner.
The modern town has its own culture, with Armenian churches, food and shops, including restaurants known for their trout and mezze.
Ksara, Kefraya and other wineries lie nearby, with tastings and lunches.
Anjar and Baalbek are about an hour and a half apart, and are often visited together.
Main attractions
The archaeological site takes an hour or two, and the wineries and caves can fill the rest of a day.
A walled rectangle of about 350 by 370 metres, with four gates and a grid of streets. The remains of two palaces, a mosque, baths and arcades survive, with several restored colonnades.
Tip Go early and walk the main street from gate to gate.
The crossroads at the heart of the city, marked by four groups of columns. The main street is flanked by arcades of small shops.
Tip Look at the mix of stone and brick courses in the walls.
The remains of the caliph's palace and of the mosque, with a court, a prayer hall and carved decoration.
Tip Read the information boards to make sense of the ruins.
About 20 km from Anjar, Ksara is the oldest and best-known winery in Lebanon, founded by Jesuit monks in 1857, with a network of Roman-era caves used to store wine.
Tip Book a tour and tasting in advance.
A number of wineries in the western Bekaa and near Zahle offer visits, tastings and meals.
Tip Confirm that they are open.
A small town with Armenian churches and shops, and the memorial to the Musa Dagh refugees.
Tip Ask permission to enter churches.
The largest city of the Bekaa, with riverside restaurants along the Berdawni, known for arak and mezze.
Tip Have lunch at a riverside restaurant.
Things to do
A day in the Bekaa combines ruins, food and wine.
Wander the arcades and streets, and see how the city was laid out.
Tip Go in the morning.
Try the local trout, kebabs, sujuk, mante and other Armenian dishes.
Tip Book for lunch on weekends.
Tasting at Ksara or Kefraya, with a tour of the vineyards and cellars.
Tip Book in advance, and use a driver.
A tour of the cellar tunnels, cut into the rock by the Romans.
Tip Wear warm clothes.
Riverside restaurants serve arak and mezze under the trees.
Tip Go on a weekday to avoid crowds.
Baalbek is about 90 minutes away, and the two make a full day, if conditions allow.
Tip Check the current situation.
Local food
The Bekaa is Lebanon's breadbasket, and its cooking includes both traditional Lebanese and Armenian dishes.
Reds, whites and rosés from the high-altitude vineyards, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault and Obaideh.
Where to try it Wineries and restaurants.
Trout from the rivers, grilled or fried, served with lemon.
Where to try it Restaurants in Anjar.
Spiced sausage and cured beef, served as starters or in sandwiches.
Where to try it Armenian shops and restaurants.
Lebanese starters, often with fresh herbs from the valley.
Where to try it Restaurants in Anjar and Zahle.
Fresh dairy from the valley.
Where to try it Shops and restaurants.
The aniseed spirit distilled from Bekaa grapes, served with a meal.
Where to try it Restaurants in Zahle.
Accommodation
Accommodation in Anjar is limited, and most visitors visit on a day trip. Zahle has more choice.
Transport
Anjar is about 58 km east of Beirut on the Beirut–Damascus highway. Check current conditions and advice.
The site is on foot, and a car or taxi links the wineries and towns.
When to go
The Bekaa is at about 900 m, with hot dry summers and cold winters. Spring and autumn are the most comfortable, and the grape harvest is in September and October.
Green fields, warm days and snow on the mountains.
Hot and dry, but cooler than the coast. Visit in the morning.
The grape harvest, golden light and warm days.
Cold and often snowy. The pass over the mountains may close.
Worth planning around: Snowstorms and any period of tension near the border.
Itinerary
Anjar's ruins in the morning, an Armenian lunch, and a winery in the afternoon. Assumes a driver from Beirut and conditions that allow it.
A day of history and taste.
Travel tips
The Bekaa needs more caution than most places.
FAQ
Anjar is a quiet village, but it lies close to the Syrian border, and the Bekaa was affected by Israeli strikes in 2024. Many governments advise against travel to the Bekaa. Check current advice.
The Umayyad caliph al-Walid I, or possibly his son al-Walid II, in the early 8th century. It was abandoned after the fall of the dynasty in 750.
The modern village was founded in 1939 by refugees from Musa Dagh, in Turkey, who fled the Armenian genocide of 1915 and then the transfer of the region to Turkey.
Half a day for the ruins and lunch, and a full day with a winery and Zahle.
The Bekaa Valley, at about 900 to 1,100 metres, where Ksara, Kefraya, Musar and other wineries are located.
Yes, in normal conditions. They are about 90 minutes apart, and make a full day out of Beirut. Check the security situation first.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Anjar, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
Baalbek-Hermel Governorate, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon
Roman Heliopolis, with the Temples of Jupiter, Bacchus and Venus, one of the greatest monuments of the ancient world — in a part of Lebanon where visiting has been affected by conflict since 2024.
Don't miss The Temple of Bacchus, close to complete after nearly two thousand years, and the six giant columns of the Temple of Jupiter beside it.
Explore Destination — BaalbekBeirut Governorate, Mediterranean coast, Lebanon
Lebanon's capital: a dense, cosmopolitan city of Ottoman houses and glass towers, with the National Museum, the Corniche, cafés, bars and a food scene that outclasses its size.
Don't miss A long dinner in Gemmayzeh or Mar Mikhael, after a sunset walk along the Corniche to the Pigeon Rocks.
Explore Destination — BeirutMount Lebanon Governorate, Chouf District, Lebanon
A green, terraced mountain region 45 km south-east of Beirut, with Beiteddine Palace, the historic village of Deir al-Qamar, Druze and Christian villages and the Chouf Cedar Reserve.
Don't miss Beiteddine Palace, a huge 19th-century mountain palace of arcaded courtyards, mosaics and gardens, and one of the finest Ottoman-era buildings in the Levant.
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