South Governorate, southern coast · Lebanon
A Phoenician port with a 13th-century sea castle on a causeway, a maze of Ottoman souks and khans, a soap museum and some of the best sweets in the south.
Photo: Vyacheslav Argenberg · CC BY 4.0
Sidon, called Saida in Arabic, is one of the oldest Phoenician cities, and for a time in the 1st millennium BCE was the most important of them, before Tyre took the lead. It was famous for its glass and purple dye, and it was a rich port under the Persians, the Greeks and the Romans. Its history is mostly buried beneath the modern city, with the exception of a temple at Eshmun, about 2 km to the north-east, and a Phoenician royal necropolis.
The most visible landmarks are medieval. The Sea Castle, built by the Crusaders in 1228 on a small island and connected to the shore by a causeway, dominates the harbour, and the Castle of St Louis on the hill, sometimes called the Land Castle, overlooks the old town. The old city is a maze of covered souks, khans and small mosques from the Mamluk and Ottoman periods, with the most notable being Khan al-Franj, a 17th-century inn built by the Emir Fakhr al-Din for French merchants.
Sidon is about 40 km south of Beirut and 45 km north of the Israeli border. It has been affected by conflict, with Israeli strikes near the city in 2024, and many governments advised against travel to south Lebanon at the time of writing. Check current advice and conditions before you consider going.
Why visit
Sidon is one of the easiest and most agreeable old cities in Lebanon, and it is less touristy than Byblos.
The Sea Castle is one of the most photogenic Crusader fortresses on the coast, with towers, a causeway and a view along the shore.
The souks are still full of ordinary shops, craft workshops and cafés rather than souvenir stalls.
A restored 17th-century soap factory shows how traditional olive-oil soap was made, a craft that Sidon and Tripoli were once famous for.
Fishermen sell the catch from the harbour, and restaurants serve it at the water's edge.
Sidon has a reputation for its sweets, particularly the pastries filled with cream and nuts.
Main attractions
The old town, the castles and the port are within a short walk of each other, and the temple is a short drive.
A Crusader fortress built in 1228 on a small island, reached by a stone causeway. It was partly destroyed by the Mamluks and rebuilt, and has two towers and a chapel.
Tip Walk the causeway for views of the harbour, and go in the late afternoon.
A network of vaulted lanes with shops selling spices, sweets and everyday goods, and Khan al-Franj, a 17th-century merchants' inn with a large courtyard.
Tip Go in the morning, when the souk is busiest.
A restored soap factory with displays explaining the history of soap-making in Sidon and the region, and a shop selling handmade soap.
Tip Buy a bar or two.
The ruins of a Crusader castle on a hill above the old city, with views over the harbour and the coast. It is reached by a short climb.
Tip Go for the view at sunset.
The Great Mosque, built in the 13th century on the site of a Crusader church, and several smaller mosques and shrines in the old town.
Tip Dress modestly and observe prayer times.
An 18th-century mansion with a museum of local history, with rooms furnished as in a wealthy family's home.
Tip Check opening hours.
A Phoenician temple complex dedicated to the god of healing, about 2 km north-east of the city, with terraces, mosaics and a large ritual basin. It dates from the 7th century BCE onwards.
Tip Combine it with a drive through the orange groves.
Things to do
Sidon is a day for walking, eating and looking.
Wander through the lanes, stopping for coffee and sweets.
Tip Go in the morning.
See the interior and climb the tower for a view.
Tip Check whether it is open.
Learn about traditional soap-making, and see the restored building.
Tip Allow an hour.
Fish restaurants along the port serve grilled fish and mezze.
Tip Ask the price.
Sample the local pastries, including sfouf, knefe and ma'amoul.
Tip Buy a small box to take home.
See the Phoenician temple in its hillside setting.
Tip Combine with a walk in the citrus orchards.
Local food
Sidon is known for its sweets and its fish, and the old town's small restaurants serve simple local food.
The day's catch, grilled with olive oil and lemon.
Where to try it Restaurants at the harbour.
Baklava, ma'amoul, sfouf and other pastries, sold in the old town.
Where to try it Sweet shops in the souk.
A hot cheese pastry with syrup, often served in a sesame bun for breakfast.
Where to try it Small shops in the old town.
Hummus, tabbouleh, kibbeh and other small dishes.
Where to try it Restaurants in the old town.
Sidon is surrounded by citrus groves, and fresh juice is sold in the streets.
Where to try it Juice stalls.
Strong coffee flavoured with cardamom.
Where to try it Cafés in the souk.
Accommodation
Sidon has a small number of hotels and guesthouses, and most visitors come as a day trip from Beirut.
Transport
Sidon is about 40 km south of Beirut on the coastal highway. Check current advice before you travel.
The old town is compact and walkable.
When to go
Sidon has a Mediterranean climate with hot, humid summers and mild wet winters. Spring and autumn are the most comfortable.
Warm and green, with orange blossom in the groves.
Hot and humid. Visit in the morning.
Warm and calm.
Mild and wet, with few visitors.
Worth planning around: Periods of conflict or tension in the south, and midday in summer.
Itinerary
The Sea Castle and the souk in the morning, lunch by the harbour, the soap museum and Eshmun in the afternoon.
A relaxed day in a working old town.
Travel tips
Sidon is easy and friendly, but it is in the south.
FAQ
Sidon has generally been calmer than the border areas, but the south has been affected by conflict since 2023, and many governments advise against travel to south Lebanon. Check current advice.
Its Crusader Sea Castle, its old souks and khans, its soap and its sweets, and its history as one of the great Phoenician cities.
Half a day for the castle and the old town, and a day with the Soap Museum, lunch and Eshmun.
By car, driver, bus or shared taxi along the coast. It takes about an hour without traffic.
A Crusader fortress built in 1228 on an island in the harbour and connected to the shore by a causeway. It is Sidon's main landmark.
Yes, in normal conditions. They are about 40 km apart, and a driver can do both, with time for lunch.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Sidon, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
South Governorate, southern coast, Lebanon
An ancient island-turned-peninsula with major Phoenician and Roman ruins and one of Lebanon's best beaches, in an area where travel has been heavily affected by conflict since 2023.
Don't miss The Roman hippodrome, one of the largest and best-preserved circuses of the ancient world, with a necropolis and triumphal arch beside it.
Explore Destination — Tyre (Sour)Beirut Governorate, Mediterranean coast, Lebanon
Lebanon's capital: a dense, cosmopolitan city of Ottoman houses and glass towers, with the National Museum, the Corniche, cafés, bars and a food scene that outclasses its size.
Don't miss A long dinner in Gemmayzeh or Mar Mikhael, after a sunset walk along the Corniche to the Pigeon Rocks.
Explore Destination — BeirutMount Lebanon Governorate, Chouf District, Lebanon
A green, terraced mountain region 45 km south-east of Beirut, with Beiteddine Palace, the historic village of Deir al-Qamar, Druze and Christian villages and the Chouf Cedar Reserve.
Don't miss Beiteddine Palace, a huge 19th-century mountain palace of arcaded courtyards, mosaics and gardens, and one of the finest Ottoman-era buildings in the Levant.
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