Mount Lebanon Governorate, Chouf District · Lebanon
Lebanon's southern mountains: an Ottoman-era palace of courtyards and mosaics, a stone village that was once the emirs' capital, and the country's largest cedar reserve.
Photo: Peripitus · CC BY-SA 3.0
The Chouf is the range of terraced mountains south-east of Beirut, rising from the coastal plain to about 2,000 metres. It is the historic heartland of the Druze, a religious community that split from Ismaili Islam in the 11th century, and it has a long Christian, particularly Maronite, presence as well. For centuries the emirs of Mount Lebanon, notably Fakhr al-Din II and Bashir II Shihab, ruled from these hills, and their palaces and villages are the region's great heritage.
The biggest is Beiteddine Palace, built between about 1788 and 1818 by Emir Bashir II Shihab, with a series of courtyards, arcades, fountains, baths, mosaics and painted ceilings on a hilltop. Nearby, the village of Deir al-Qamar, the former capital of the emirs, is a well-preserved stone town of red-tiled roofs and cobbled squares. Above them, the Chouf Cedar Reserve is Lebanon's largest nature reserve, protecting a quarter of the country's remaining cedars.
The Chouf is a peaceful region of orchards, olive groves and villages, and it is a favourite summer escape for people from Beirut. It has been affected less directly by recent conflict than the south, but check your government's advice.
Why visit
The Chouf is the most scenic and cooling day out from Beirut, and it shows a different side of Lebanon.
A masterpiece of 19th-century Lebanese architecture, with limestone courtyards, Ottoman and Italianate details and one of the largest collections of Byzantine mosaics in the country.
A village of old stone houses, a mosque, a church and a palace that was once the seat of Mount Lebanon's emirs.
Three groves of ancient cedars, oak and juniper, with marked trails and views over the mountains and the sea.
The region is the centre of the Druze community in Lebanon, with villages, shrines and traditions that are distinct.
The Beiteddine Art Festival, held in the palace courtyards in summer, features concerts, theatre and dance.
Main attractions
The palace and the village are close together, and the reserve is a short drive.
A hilltop palace built by Emir Bashir Shihab II, with three main courtyards, a harem, baths, a mosque, stables and gardens. It is now a national monument and houses a museum of mosaics and a collection of weapons.
Tip Allow two hours, and go on a weekday morning.
A museum in the palace displaying Byzantine mosaics from Jiyeh and other sites, including a well-known scene of the cycle of life.
Tip Visit before the tour groups arrive.
A stone village 5 km from Beiteddine, with a main square, the Fakhreddine Mosque, the Palace of Youssef Shehab and a Maronite church. It is one of the best-preserved historic villages in Lebanon.
Tip Walk around the square and lanes, and have coffee.
A protected area of about 550 km² that covers a large part of the southern mountains, with cedar groves at Maaser el Chouf, Barouk and Ain Zhalta. Marked trails, guesthouses and a visitor centre help walkers.
Tip Go in spring or autumn, and check trail conditions.
The seat of the Jumblatt family, one of the leading Druze families, with a palace and gardens in a village near Beiteddine. It is usually closed to the public.
Tip It can be seen from the road.
One of the largest cedar groves in Lebanon, in the reserve, with walking trails.
Tip Combine with a picnic.
Villages such as Niha, Baakleen and Mukhtara have shrines, old houses and a distinct religious culture. The Druze faith is secretive, and visitors are welcomed at some sites.
Tip Ask before entering religious places.
Things to do
The Chouf is a place for a relaxed day of walking and looking.
Walk through the courtyards, the baths and the museum, and enjoy the views.
Tip Go at opening.
Stroll around the square and old lanes, and stop at the cafés.
Tip Go in the afternoon.
Follow marked trails through cedar groves and along the ridge, with views to the Mediterranean.
Tip Take water, and wear sturdy shoes.
Restaurants serve mezze and grills on terraces with mountain views.
Tip Ask for the local specialities.
Concerts and performances in the palace courtyards during summer, when held.
Tip Check the programme and book tickets.
Sidon is about 40 minutes from Beiteddine, and the two make a full day.
Tip Start in the mountains and finish on the coast.
Local food
Chouf cooking is mountain cooking: grilled meats, mezze, fruit and preserves, and specialities of the Druze villages.
Salads, dips, kibbeh and pastries, often with local olive oil.
Where to try it Restaurants in Deir al-Qamar and Beiteddine.
Lamb and chicken cooked over charcoal, served with garlic sauce.
Where to try it Restaurants in the villages.
Apples, cherries, figs and grapes grown in the terraces, sold fresh and as jams.
Where to try it Roadside stalls.
The Chouf produces olive oil and traditional soap.
Where to try it Village shops and cooperatives.
Flatbread with za'atar, cheese or meat.
Where to try it Bakeries.
Traditional sweets and strong coffee in the village cafés.
Where to try it Cafés in Deir al-Qamar.
Accommodation
Most visitors visit as a day trip from Beirut, but guesthouses in the villages and the reserve are a pleasant option.
Transport
Beiteddine is about 45 km south-east of Beirut by winding mountain roads.
A car or driver is the easiest way to link the palace, the village and the reserve.
When to go
The Chouf is at 800–1,900 m and is cooler than the coast. Spring and autumn are best for walking, and summer is a pleasant escape.
Green hills and wildflowers, with snow on the peaks until April.
Warm and dry, with cool evenings and the Beiteddine festival.
Warm and clear, with autumn colours.
Cold and often snowy, with few visitors. Higher roads can close.
Worth planning around: Snowstorms in winter, and August weekends.
Itinerary
Beiteddine Palace in the morning, lunch in Deir al-Qamar, a walk in the cedar reserve in the afternoon.
A scenic day in the mountains.
Travel tips
The Chouf is easy, and a few tips help.
FAQ
A 19th-century palace built by Emir Bashir II Shihab, with courtyards, baths and a museum of mosaics. It is one of the best examples of Lebanese architecture of the period.
A religious community that emerged in the 11th century from Ismaili Islam, and is centred in Lebanon, Syria, Israel and Jordan. Their beliefs are known only to initiated members.
One day covers the palace, the village and a short walk. Two days let you hike and stay in a guesthouse.
It has been less affected by recent conflict than the south, but conditions in Lebanon can change quickly. Check your government's advice.
Lebanon's largest nature reserve, protecting about a quarter of the country's remaining cedar forest, together with oak, juniper and wildlife.
It has traditionally been held in summer, usually July and August. Dates vary and the festival has been suspended in difficult years, so check.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with the Chouf, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
South Governorate, southern coast, Lebanon
A relaxed, atmospheric port city, 40 km south of Beirut, with a Crusader sea castle, a well-preserved old town, a soap museum and a lively fishing harbour.
Don't miss The Sea Castle, a Crusader fortress on a tiny island linked to the shore by a stone causeway, with the old harbour and souks beside it.
Explore Destination — Sidon (Saida)Beirut Governorate, Mediterranean coast, Lebanon
Lebanon's capital: a dense, cosmopolitan city of Ottoman houses and glass towers, with the National Museum, the Corniche, cafés, bars and a food scene that outclasses its size.
Don't miss A long dinner in Gemmayzeh or Mar Mikhael, after a sunset walk along the Corniche to the Pigeon Rocks.
Explore Destination — BeirutSouth Governorate, southern coast, Lebanon
An ancient island-turned-peninsula with major Phoenician and Roman ruins and one of Lebanon's best beaches, in an area where travel has been heavily affected by conflict since 2023.
Don't miss The Roman hippodrome, one of the largest and best-preserved circuses of the ancient world, with a necropolis and triumphal arch beside it.
Explore Destination — Tyre (Sour)Read next
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