North Governorate, north coast · Lebanon
A small fishing town with a Phoenician sea wall, a stone old quarter, lemonade, wineries and the most relaxed beach scene on the Lebanese coast.
Photo: Clément Bucco-Lechat · CC BY-SA 4.0
Batroun is a small town on a rocky headland about 55 km north of Beirut. It was a Phoenician port, known as Botrys, and it later became a Roman and Crusader town, and its old quarter is a tight cluster of stone houses, churches, mosques and shops around a small harbour. It is less historic than Byblos and less of a tourist site, and it has become in recent years one of the most fashionable places on the coast.
The best-known relic is the Phoenician sea wall, a line of rock about 225 metres long that stretches into the sea, shaped and reinforced by Phoenician builders to make a natural breakwater for the harbour. The town also has a 19th-century Greek Orthodox cathedral, a Maronite church, and a market where fishermen sell their catch. In the summer, its beaches, beach clubs, cafés and restaurants make it a favourite weekend spot for Beirutis.
Behind the coast, the hills are dotted with vineyards, and Batroun has become the centre of a small wine region. The town also has a reputation for its lemonade, made from local lemons and served in the old town. It is in the north, a part of the country that has generally been calm compared with the south and the Bekaa, but check your government's advice.
Why visit
Batroun combines sea, food and wine in a small and attractive setting, and is a good place to rest between sightseeing days.
A natural rock breakwater reinforced by the Phoenicians, believed to be about 2,500 years old, which still shelters the harbour.
Narrow lanes of stone houses, churches and workshops lead to the harbour and the sea.
Small sandy beaches and rocky bays with clubs offer swimming and sunset drinks from May to October.
Seafood restaurants, bakeries and the famous Batroun lemonade make it a good place to eat.
Wineries in the hills behind the town welcome visitors for tastings and lunches.
Main attractions
The old town, the wall and the harbour can be seen in a couple of hours, and the beaches and wineries fill the rest of a day.
A rocky sea wall of about 225 metres, part natural and part shaped by Phoenician builders, which formed a harbour and a defence. It is best seen from the shore near the old port.
Tip Walk along the rocks at sunset.
A network of narrow lanes, restored stone houses, small shops and cafés around the harbour. It is pleasant to wander in the morning or evening.
Tip Try the lemonade at a café.
A 19th-century Maronite cathedral in the old town, with a dome and a bell tower, and a Greek Orthodox church nearby.
Tip Dress modestly.
The remains of a small Roman theatre carved out of the rock, and ancient rock-cut tombs on the outskirts.
Tip Ask locally for directions.
A small port with fishing boats, a fish market and restaurants with tables at the water's edge.
Tip Go in the late afternoon.
Small sandy beaches and clubs along the coast, some public and some private.
Tip Check entry fees and dress codes.
Things to do
Batroun is a place for slow days, sunsets and long lunches.
The sun sets over the sea behind the Phoenician wall and the harbour.
Tip Bring a drink and a jacket.
Batroun's lemonade, sometimes mixed with orange blossom water, is a local speciality.
Tip Try it at several cafés.
Vineyards in the hills produce good wines, and several offer tastings and meals.
Tip Book ahead and hire a driver.
Swim, sunbathe and have lunch at a beach club.
Tip Go on a weekday to avoid crowds.
Restaurants serve fish, calamari and prawns.
Tip Choose your fish at the counter.
Bars and restaurants stay busy until late in summer.
Tip Take a taxi or driver.
Local food
Batroun is a good place to eat well, with seafood, mezze and local produce.
Fresh lemon juice with sugar, mint or orange blossom water, served over ice.
Where to try it Cafés in the old town.
Sea bream, sea bass and red mullet, grilled and served whole.
Where to try it Harbour restaurants.
Hummus, tabbouleh and other starters, served with local wine or arak.
Where to try it Restaurants in the old town.
Wines from vineyards in the hills, including whites and rosés.
Where to try it Wineries and restaurants.
Freshly baked flatbread with za'atar or cheese.
Where to try it Bakeries.
Knefe, baklava and ice cream.
Where to try it Shops in the old town.
Accommodation
Batroun has a growing number of boutique hotels and guesthouses, particularly in the old town and along the coast.
Transport
Batroun is about 55 km north of Beirut on the coastal highway, about 20 minutes beyond Byblos.
The old town is walkable, and a car or taxi helps to reach the beaches and wineries.
When to go
Batroun has a Mediterranean climate, and the beach season runs from May to October. Spring and autumn are the most comfortable.
Warm and green, with the sea still cool.
Hot and humid, and the busiest and most expensive season.
Warm sea, fewer people, and the grape harvest.
Mild and wet, with many places closed.
Worth planning around: August weekends, when the town is packed.
Itinerary
The old town and wall in the morning, lunch and the beach, a winery in the late afternoon.
A relaxed day.
Travel tips
Batroun is relaxed, and a few tips help.
FAQ
Its Phoenician sea wall, its lemonade, its old town, its beaches and its growing wine scene.
One day is enough for the town, a swim and a winery. A night lets you enjoy the evening.
It is in the north, which has generally been calm compared with the south and the Bekaa, but conditions in Lebanon can change. Check your government's advice.
About 55 km, or an hour without traffic.
From May to October, with the water at its warmest in August and September.
Yes. They are about 20 minutes apart, and are often visited together.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Batroun, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
Mount Lebanon Governorate, north coast, Lebanon
A small, charming coastal town of stone lanes, a Crusader castle and layers of ruins going back seven thousand years, 40 minutes north of Beirut.
Don't miss The Crusader castle above the Phoenician and Roman ruins, with the harbour and the sea behind.
Explore Destination — Byblos (Jbeil)North Governorate, northern coast, Lebanon
A large, hard-working and rarely visited northern port city with a Crusader citadel, a labyrinth of Mamluk souks and khans, and the best sweets in the country.
Don't miss The Mamluk old town, one of the most complete in the Middle East, and the sweets at the shops that have made them for over a century.
Explore Destination — TripoliBeirut Governorate, Mediterranean coast, Lebanon
Lebanon's capital: a dense, cosmopolitan city of Ottoman houses and glass towers, with the National Museum, the Corniche, cafés, bars and a food scene that outclasses its size.
Don't miss A long dinner in Gemmayzeh or Mar Mikhael, after a sunset walk along the Corniche to the Pigeon Rocks.
Explore Destination — BeirutRead next
Where to go
The Mediterranean coasts in this guide are not interchangeable. Some have sand and some have rock; some are glamorous and some are cheap; two of them are effectively closed for half the year. This is a comparison by the things that decide whether a coastal week works — swimming, crowds, cost, transport and what there is to do when you get out of the water.
Food
Eating well abroad is mostly a matter of knowing when meals happen, how the menu is structured and which dish belongs to the place you are standing in. This covers all three for the five countries in this guide, plus the signals that separate a restaurant that feeds locals from one that feeds coaches.
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