North Governorate, Bsharri District, Mount Lebanon · Lebanon
A deep gorge of monasteries and hermitages where Maronite Christians sheltered for centuries, beneath a grove of ancient cedars, the trees on Lebanon's flag.
Photo: Vyacheslav Argenberg · CC BY 4.0
In the mountains of northern Lebanon, the Qadisha River has cut a deep gorge that the Maronite Christians called the Holy Valley, in Aramaic and Arabic Wadi Qadisha. From the early centuries of Christianity, monks and hermits settled in the caves and cliffs, and from the 7th century onwards the valley became a refuge for the Maronite community from persecution. Monasteries, chapels and hermitages were built along its walls, many of them still in use.
At the top of the valley, about 2,000 metres up, is a grove of cedars called the Cedars of God (Arz al-Rab), which contains about 375 trees. Some are estimated to be more than a thousand years old, and a few are said to be older. Cedar wood from Lebanon was traded by the Phoenicians and used by Egyptians and Mesopotamians, and the Bible mentions the trees dozens of times. The tree appears on the Lebanese flag. UNESCO listed the valley and the grove together in 1998.
The nearby town of Bsharri is the birthplace of Kahlil Gibran, the author of The Prophet, and holds a museum that houses his paintings and manuscripts and, in the rock beneath, his tomb. In winter, the Cedars become Lebanon's oldest ski resort. The region is in the north of the country, and has generally been calm compared with the south and the Bekaa, but check your government's advice before you go.
Why visit
This is the most beautiful and least commercial part of mountain Lebanon, and it has a unique combination of nature and religious history.
Chapels, caves and monasteries cling to the valley wall, some occupied since the 5th century, and can be reached by trails and roads.
The grove is small but atmospheric, with gnarled trunks that have stood for centuries, in a landscape of high mountain peaks.
The museum in Bsharri shows the work of one of the best-selling poets in history, in the setting of a former hermitage.
Trails follow the valley and form part of the Lebanon Mountain Trail, and the small ski resort at the Cedars is popular from December to March.
Villages such as Bsharri, Hadchit and Ehden have guesthouses, restaurants and local produce, with a cool climate in summer.
Main attractions
The valley and the grove are about 30 minutes apart by road. A day covers the main sights, and a second allows a walk.
A protected grove of about 375 cedars at an altitude of about 1,900 metres, with a small chapel in the middle and a visitor centre. The oldest trees are thought to be well over a thousand years old.
Tip Go in the morning, when the light through the trees is best.
A steep-sided gorge, about 35 km long, cut by the Qadisha River, with terraced fields and villages on its rim. A road runs along the edge, with viewpoints.
Tip Walk down into the valley for a different perspective.
A Maronite monastery built into the valley wall, which was the seat of the patriarchs from the 14th to the 19th century. It is reached by a footpath or a steep road and is still in use.
Tip Modest dress is required. Check the opening hours.
Two more monasteries, one with a chapel with hermit cells cut in the rock, and the other with a museum and a printing press, the first in the Middle East. Qozhaya is one of the most dramatic sites in the valley.
Tip Combine them on a day's walk or drive.
A small town at 1,400 metres on the rim of the valley, and the birthplace of Kahlil Gibran (1883–1931). The museum, in the former monastery of Mar Sarkis, houses his paintings, manuscripts and tomb.
Tip The museum is small, and can be seen in an hour.
A long-distance walking route through the mountains, with a well-marked stage through the valley and the cedars.
Tip Hire a local guide for longer sections.
A small ski resort above the cedar grove, at 2,000–2,800 metres, with a few lifts and simple hotels. It is popular in winter, and has spectacular views.
Tip Check snow conditions in advance.
Things to do
This is a landscape for walking, and for slowing down.
Trails lead from the villages to the monasteries, with views over the valley walls and terraces. Short and long routes are available.
Tip Wear good shoes and take water.
See the trees in the morning light and read about their history at the visitor centre.
Tip The grove can be cold and snowy from November to April.
See the paintings and manuscripts of Lebanon's most famous writer, and the tomb.
Tip Read a few pages of The Prophet first.
Restaurants in Bsharri, Ehden and other villages serve mountain cooking, with grills, mezze and local sweets.
Tip Try the local kibbeh nayyeh.
The resort's slopes are small but scenic, and lifts run from December to March.
Tip Book equipment and accommodation ahead.
Small guesthouses in Bsharri, Hasroun and Ehden offer home cooking and mountain views.
Tip Book in advance in summer and winter.
Local food
Northern mountain cooking is hearty and built on local produce: meat, dairy, grains and preserved fruit.
Raw minced lamb pounded with bulgur and spices, eaten with mint, onion and olive oil. A specialty of the north.
Where to try it Restaurants in Bsharri and Ehden.
A spread of salads, dips and pastries made with local ingredients.
Where to try it Mountain restaurants.
Lamb, chicken and kafta grilled over charcoal, served with bread and pickles.
Where to try it Grill houses in the villages.
Cheese and strained yoghurt made from goat's and sheep's milk, sold in village shops.
Where to try it Village shops and restaurants.
The mountain villages grow apples, cherries and other fruit, sold fresh and as jam.
Where to try it Roadside stalls in summer and autumn.
Local sweets, and arak, distilled in the mountains, served with meals.
Where to try it Restaurants and bakeries.
Accommodation
Accommodation is simple and mostly in Bsharri, Hasroun, Ehden and at the Cedars. Booking ahead is wise for summer and the ski season.
Transport
The valley and the cedars are about 120 km north of Beirut, up a winding mountain road from the coast near Tripoli.
A car or a driver is the practical way to reach the different points. Walking is the way to explore the valley.
When to go
The valley is at about 1,400 m and the cedars at about 1,900 m, so summers are cool and winters cold and snowy. Late spring and autumn are the best seasons for walking, and winter for skiing.
Snowmelt and waterfalls, with fresh green in the valley. The cedars may still be snowy in March.
Cool and clear, with a lot of visitors from the coast. Good for walking.
Warm days, cool nights and autumn colours.
Cold and snowy. The Cedars ski resort operates, and roads may close after heavy snow.
Worth planning around: Snowstorms and days of heavy rain when the mountain roads can be dangerous.
Itinerary
The cedar grove and the Gibran Museum on the first day, and the valley's monasteries on the second. Assumes a base in Bsharri.
The trees and the poet.
A day of walking and monasteries.
Travel tips
The mountains are cool and rewarding, and a few tips help.
FAQ
The oldest trees are estimated to be more than a thousand years old, and some claim up to three thousand, but exact ages are hard to establish. The grove has about 375 trees.
Because Christian hermits and monks lived in its caves and cliffs from the early centuries, and because it was a refuge for the Maronite Church from the 7th century. The Aramaic name Qadisha means holy.
May to June and September to October for walking, and December to March for skiing. Summer is popular with Lebanese visitors, and winter can close the roads.
One long day covers the cedars, Bsharri and a viewpoint, and two days allows you to walk in the valley and visit the monasteries.
The north has generally been calm compared with the south and the Bekaa, but conditions in Lebanon can change quickly. Check your government's advice.
A Lebanese-American poet, painter and writer, born in Bsharri in 1883, best known for The Prophet (1923). He died in New York in 1931 and is buried in Bsharri.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with the Qadisha Valley and the Cedars, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
North Governorate, northern coast, Lebanon
A large, hard-working and rarely visited northern port city with a Crusader citadel, a labyrinth of Mamluk souks and khans, and the best sweets in the country.
Don't miss The Mamluk old town, one of the most complete in the Middle East, and the sweets at the shops that have made them for over a century.
Explore Destination — TripoliNorth Governorate, north coast, Lebanon
An easy-going coastal town 55 km north of Beirut, with Phoenician and Ottoman remains, a lively harbour, beaches, restaurants and vineyards in the hills behind.
Don't miss Sunset over the sea from the old harbour, with a glass of the town's famous lemonade or a bottle of local wine.
Explore Destination — BatrounMount Lebanon Governorate, north coast, Lebanon
A small, charming coastal town of stone lanes, a Crusader castle and layers of ruins going back seven thousand years, 40 minutes north of Beirut.
Don't miss The Crusader castle above the Phoenician and Roman ruins, with the harbour and the sea behind.
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