Mount Lebanon Governorate, north coast · Lebanon
One of the oldest continuously inhabited cities on Earth, a small Phoenician port where the alphabet was carried to the world, with a Crusader castle, Roman ruins and a stone harbour.
Photo: Choinowski · CC BY-SA 4.0
Byblos, called Jbeil in Arabic and Gebal by the Phoenicians, is a small town 37 km north of Beirut, and one of the oldest continuously inhabited places on Earth, with settlement going back around seven thousand years. It was a great Phoenician trading city, exporting the cedar wood of Lebanon to Egypt and importing papyrus in return, and the Greek word for book, biblos, and so the word Bible, are said to derive from its name.
The Phoenicians developed one of the earliest alphabets here, and the sarcophagus of King Ahiram, found in a royal tomb, carries an inscription of about 1000 BCE that is among the oldest examples. The town was later ruled by Assyrians, Persians, Greeks and Romans, and in the 12th century the Crusaders built a castle from the stones of earlier buildings. UNESCO listed the site in 1984.
Today, Byblos is a compact and relaxed place, with a small archaeological site, the castle, a restored old souk and a harbour with fishing boats and seafood restaurants. It is very easy to reach from Beirut and works as a day trip or the start of a trip up the coast. It is in a part of the country that has been calm compared with the south and the Bekaa, though you should check your government's advice.
Why visit
Byblos combines deep history with an easy, pleasant setting.
Neolithic huts, Bronze Age temples, Phoenician royal tombs, a Roman theatre and a Crusader castle lie within a few hundred metres.
The Ahiram inscription and other finds connect Byblos with one of the most important inventions in history.
The site, the old souk and the harbour can all be seen on foot in a few hours.
Fishing boats, seafood restaurants and cafés overlook the stone-built port, one of the prettiest on the Lebanese coast.
Jeita Grotto, Harissa and Batroun are all close, so a day out from Beirut can include two or three of them.
Main attractions
Byblos is small, and the main sights can be seen in half a day.
A 12th-century fortress built by the Crusaders from stones taken from Roman and earlier buildings, with a keep, a moat and towers, and views over the site and the sea.
Tip Climb the keep for the view.
A hillside of ruins from many periods: Neolithic houses, the Temple of Baalat Gebal, the Temple of the Obelisks, the Phoenician royal necropolis and a Roman colonnade and theatre.
Tip Walk the site with a guide or an audio guide.
A restored network of lanes of stone-built shops selling crafts, jewellery, antiques and souvenirs, and cafés. It is the most touristy part of Byblos but also its most pleasant.
Tip Go in the morning or early evening.
A small stone-walled port, thought to be among the oldest in the world, with fishing boats, cafés and restaurants.
Tip Have lunch by the water.
A 12th-century Crusader church, built as a cathedral, with a fine vaulted interior, close to the castle.
Tip Modest dress is required.
Two small private museums, one telling Byblos's story with wax figures and the other displaying fossils found in Lebanese limestone.
Tip Check opening hours.
Things to do
Byblos is a day for walking, eating and looking.
See the layers of history from the Neolithic to the Crusader period, and enjoy the setting.
Tip Go in the morning.
Fish restaurants along the harbour serve the day's catch, grilled or fried.
Tip Choose the fish yourself at the counter.
Look for hand-made jewellery, pottery and antiques, and stop for a coffee.
Tip Bargain politely.
Small public and private beaches near the harbour offer a place to cool off in summer.
Tip Check the water quality and the entry fee.
The caves are about halfway between Beirut and Byblos, and can be combined in a day.
Tip Go on a weekday morning.
The seaside town of Batroun is 20 minutes north, with a Phoenician wall and a lively nightlife.
Tip Stay for sunset.
Local food
Byblos is a seafood town, and it is also a good place for mezze and local bread.
Sea bream, sea bass and red snapper grilled with lemon and olive oil, served whole.
Where to try it Restaurants along the harbour.
A range of Lebanese starters including hummus, tabbouleh and kibbeh.
Where to try it Restaurants in the old town.
Small dishes of squid and prawns, fried and served with lemon.
Where to try it Harbour-side restaurants.
Flatbread with za'atar or cheese, served hot from the oven.
Where to try it Bakeries in the old town.
Knefe, baklava and ice cream flavoured with rose water and pistachio.
Where to try it Shops in the souk.
Wines from Batroun and the mountains, and arak, the aniseed spirit.
Where to try it Restaurants and bars.
Accommodation
Most visitors visit as a day trip from Beirut, but staying overnight lets you see the harbour in the evening and enjoy a quiet morning.
Transport
Byblos is about 37 km north of Beirut, on the coastal highway.
Byblos is small and walkable.
When to go
Byblos has a Mediterranean climate, and the beach season runs from May to October. Spring and autumn are the best seasons for sightseeing.
Warm, sunny days with wildflowers on the hills.
Hot and humid, with a busy harbour. Go early or in the evening.
Warm and calm, with a warm sea.
Mild and wet, with few visitors. Many restaurants are quiet.
Worth planning around: August weekends, when the town is crowded, and rainy winter days.
Itinerary
The site and the castle in the morning, lunch by the harbour, the souk in the afternoon. Assumes a start from Beirut.
A compact day of history and food.
Travel tips
Byblos is easy, and a few tips help.
FAQ
It is one of several, including Jericho, Aleppo and Damascus, that claim to be. Byblos has been inhabited for about seven thousand years, and it was certainly one of the earliest Mediterranean ports.
Half a day for the site, the castle and the souk, and a full day with lunch and a swim.
The Greek word biblos, meaning book, came from the town's name, since it exported papyrus. The word Bible derives from the same root.
It is in a part of the country that has been calm compared with the south and the Bekaa, but advice for Lebanon can change quickly. Check your government's advice.
By car, driver, bus or service taxi. It takes about 40 minutes without traffic and longer at rush hour.
Yes. Jeita Grotto and Harissa are on the way from Beirut, and Batroun is 20 minutes further north. Tripoli is about an hour away.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Byblos, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
North Governorate, north coast, Lebanon
An easy-going coastal town 55 km north of Beirut, with Phoenician and Ottoman remains, a lively harbour, beaches, restaurants and vineyards in the hills behind.
Don't miss Sunset over the sea from the old harbour, with a glass of the town's famous lemonade or a bottle of local wine.
Explore Destination — BatrounBeirut Governorate, Mediterranean coast, Lebanon
Lebanon's capital: a dense, cosmopolitan city of Ottoman houses and glass towers, with the National Museum, the Corniche, cafés, bars and a food scene that outclasses its size.
Don't miss A long dinner in Gemmayzeh or Mar Mikhael, after a sunset walk along the Corniche to the Pigeon Rocks.
Explore Destination — BeirutNorth Governorate, northern coast, Lebanon
A large, hard-working and rarely visited northern port city with a Crusader citadel, a labyrinth of Mamluk souks and khans, and the best sweets in the country.
Don't miss The Mamluk old town, one of the most complete in the Middle East, and the sweets at the shops that have made them for over a century.
Explore Destination — TripoliRead next
Where to go
The Mediterranean coasts in this guide are not interchangeable. Some have sand and some have rock; some are glamorous and some are cheap; two of them are effectively closed for half the year. This is a comparison by the things that decide whether a coastal week works — swimming, crowds, cost, transport and what there is to do when you get out of the water.
Heritage
A UNESCO listing tells you a place matters; it does not tell you whether it is worth two days and a detour. This is how to read the list usefully — and which sites reward building a trip around them.
Advertisement
