India · Travel guide
How the country divides, how to choose between the ten destinations, how to cover enormous distances, and what two weeks can realistically hold.
Photo: Rijin S · CC BY-SA 4.0
India is a subcontinent, and no single trip covers it. This guide covers how the regions divide, how to choose between the ten destinations, how to use trains and flights, when to go, what it costs and three routes that work for a first visit.
India is roughly 3,200 km from north to south and east to west, and its regions differ in language, food, religion and climate almost as much as European countries do. Five zones organise most trips.
Delhi and the Golden Triangle. Delhi is the capital and the usual arrival point, with Agra and Jaipur each a few hours away, forming the classic Golden Triangle of Mughal and Rajput monuments.
Rajasthan. Beyond Jaipur, Udaipur is the lake city of the south of the state, with palaces on the water, and the deserts of Jodhpur, Jaisalmer and Bikaner lie further west, though they are not among the ten places here.
The Ganges plain and the Punjab. Varanasi is the holy city of the Ganges, and Amritsar in the north-west is the home of the Golden Temple.
The west coast. Mumbai is the country's largest city and financial capital, and Goa to the south has beaches, Portuguese-era churches and a relaxed pace.
The south. Kerala has backwaters, spice hills and Fort Kochi, and Hampi in Karnataka has the ruins of the Vijayanagara Empire among boulder-strewn hills.
Worth knowing: The practical unit is one or two of these regions per trip, linked by flight or train. Trying to see north and south in a week ends in airports.
India's size and traffic mean journeys take longer than the map suggests. Delhi to Mumbai is about 1,400 km, and Delhi to Kochi is about 2,700 km.
Trains. The best way to cover 200–800 km. Book online through IRCTC, choose air-conditioned classes and, for popular routes, book as soon as tickets open. The Vande Bharat and Shatabdi trains are fast and comfortable on main lines.
Flights. Cheap and frequent on domestic routes, and essential for the north–south journey. IndiGo, Air India, Akasa and others compete on price.
Private driver. Excellent for the Golden Triangle and Rajasthan, where the sights are spread out and a driver waits while you explore. Agree the itinerary and the price before you set off.
City transport. Delhi and Mumbai have metros and suburban trains. Auto-rickshaws and app cabs cover the rest, and agreeing the fare or using the meter is important.
Worth knowing: Delays are normal in winter fog, particularly on trains and flights around Delhi. Do not schedule a tight connection on the same day as an international flight.
India has three seasons that matter: a cool dry winter, a scorching hot spring and a monsoon summer. Where you go changes the answer.
November to February is the best time for almost everywhere, with dry, sunny days. Northern nights are cold, Delhi is often smoggy, and it is the peak season for prices and crowds.
March and April are warm, with Holi in March. Rajasthan and the plains start to get hot, and this is when the hill stations open.
May and June are extremely hot in the plains, often above 40°C, and best avoided apart from the Himalayas.
July to September is monsoon, with heavy rain across most of the country. Kerala's green season is popular for Ayurveda and cheap rates, and Goa closes down. Ladakh is accessible in these months.
Worth knowing: Diwali falls in October or November, and Holi in March, both on lunar dates. Trains and hotels fill up during the week around them.
India is one of the best-value countries to travel in. A thali costs a couple of dollars, a good restaurant dinner US$10–25, a comfortable hotel US$50–120 and a private car with driver about US$50–90 per day.
Foreign visitors pay much higher entry fees than Indians at major monuments. The Taj Mahal, Agra Fort and Amber Fort are the priciest, and many can be booked online.
Cash is still important for rickshaws, street food and tips, so withdraw rupees from bank ATMs. Cards work in hotels and larger restaurants.
Health is the main concern. Drink bottled water, choose freshly cooked food, and consult a travel doctor about vaccinations well before you leave. Carry rehydration salts, and travel insurance is essential.
Reference
Every place named above has its own detailed guide — attractions, food, where to stay, how to get around and a suggested day-by-day plan.
Uttar Pradesh, northern India
Home to the Taj Mahal, Agra Fort and the abandoned city of Fatehpur Sikri: three UNESCO sites that together define Mughal India.
Don't miss The Taj Mahal at sunrise, when the marble turns from grey to pink to white.
Explore Destination — AgraNational Capital Territory of Delhi, northern India
India's capital: a city of layered history with the Red Fort, Humayun's Tomb, the Qutb Minar, Jama Masjid, the boulevards of New Delhi and some of the country's best food.
Don't miss Humayun's Tomb in the late afternoon, and a plate of kebabs in Old Delhi afterwards.
Explore Destination — DelhiRajasthan, northern India
The capital of Rajasthan, a UNESCO-listed walled city with the Hawa Mahal, City Palace, Jantar Mantar and Amber Fort, and India's best craft shopping.
Don't miss Amber Fort in the early morning, before the crowds and the heat.
Explore Destination — JaipurUttar Pradesh, Ganges plain
The holiest city in Hinduism, on the Ganges: bathing ghats, cremation grounds, the Kashi Vishwanath temple, Sarnath's Buddhist monuments and an atmosphere unlike anywhere else.
Don't miss A rowing boat at sunrise, drifting past the ghats as pilgrims bathe and pray.
Explore Destination — VaranasiRajasthan, southern Mewar
The most romantic city in Rajasthan: the City Palace on Lake Pichola, the Lake Palace, Jagdish Temple, the old bazaars and the surrounding Aravalli hills, with day trips to Ranakpur and Kumbhalgarh.
Don't miss A boat on Lake Pichola at sunset, with the City Palace glowing above the water.
Explore Destination — UdaipurKerala, south-western India
Kerala's slow, watery landscapes: houseboats and canoes on the Alleppey backwaters, the historic port of Fort Kochi, the tea hills of Munnar and a rich food and dance heritage.
Don't miss A dawn canoe ride on a quiet backwater canal, with kingfishers on the palms and village life waking up.
Explore Destination — Kerala: Backwaters and KochiMaharashtra, west coast
The financial and film capital of India, with the Gateway of India, the UNESCO-listed Victorian and Art Deco ensembles, Elephanta Caves, street food and a vibrant arts scene.
Don't miss A stroll along Marine Drive at dusk, as the lights come on along the Queen's Necklace.
Explore Destination — MumbaiGoa, west coast
A former Portuguese colony with 100 km of beaches, the UNESCO-listed churches of Old Goa, the Latin Quarter of Panjim, forts, markets and a food culture found nowhere else in India.
Don't miss Fresh fish and a cold drink at a beach shack, watching the sun drop into the Arabian Sea.
Explore Destination — GoaPunjab, north-western India
The Punjabi city of the Harmandir Sahib, or Golden Temple, with its free community kitchen, the Jallianwala Bagh memorial, the Partition Museum and the daily border ceremony at Wagah.
Don't miss The Golden Temple at dawn, when the gold reflects in the still water and the hymns begin.
Explore Destination — AmritsarKarnataka, southern India
A UNESCO-listed archaeological landscape of temples, palaces and markets from the 14th to 16th centuries, with a living temple town, river crossings and a rocky, otherworldly setting.
Don't miss Sunrise from Matanga Hill, with the boulders and temple towers glowing across the valley.
Explore Destination — HampiFAQ
Yes. Fast trains take about two hours each way, and many visitors do it in a day. Staying a night lets you see the Taj at sunrise and sunset, and is worth it if you have the time.
Use trains for shorter hops of up to about six hours, and flights for the long distances between north and south. An overnight sleeper train saves a hotel night, and is an experience in itself.
Most first-timers start in the north for the monuments, which suits October to March. The south is calmer and easier for those who want a gentler introduction, and it is good in the monsoon months for Kerala.
Trains open for booking about two months ahead and popular ones sell out quickly. Hotels for Diwali, Holi and the winter peak should be booked a month or two ahead. Flights are cheapest a month or more in advance.
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