Punjab, north-western India · India
The spiritual home of Sikhism: a gold-domed temple shimmering on a sacred pool, a kitchen that feeds tens of thousands a day and the food of the Punjab.
Photo: Oleg Yunakov · CC BY-SA 3.0
Amritsar was founded in 1577 by Guru Ram Das, the fourth Sikh guru, around a sacred pool, and it has been the spiritual centre of Sikhism ever since. The Harmandir Sahib, known to visitors as the Golden Temple, sits in the middle of the pool, and its gold-plated upper floors were added in the early 19th century under Maharaja Ranjit Singh. The Guru Granth Sahib, the Sikh holy scripture, is read there day and night.
The Golden Temple is unusual among great religious sites in how open it is. People of every faith and none are welcome, entry is free, and the community kitchen, or langar, serves free vegetarian meals to tens of thousands of people every day, prepared and served by volunteers. Visiting is one of the most welcoming spiritual experiences in India.
Amritsar also has darker layers of history. The Jallianwala Bagh, where British troops killed hundreds of unarmed civilians in 1919, is a short walk from the temple, and the Partition Museum records the upheaval of 1947, when the Punjab was split between India and Pakistan and millions were displaced. The city is also a centre for Punjabi food, with kulchas, lassi and tandoori dishes.
Why visit
Amritsar is one of India's most moving and welcoming places, and less touristy than the Golden Triangle.
A serene, glowing temple on water, with an atmosphere of devotion and hospitality.
One of the world's largest free kitchens, open to all, where visitors can eat and help.
Jallianwala Bagh and the Partition Museum tell important stories of modern South Asia.
Amritsari kulcha, chole, lassi and fish, in its home region.
A theatrical daily flag-lowering at the India-Pakistan border.
Main attractions
The Golden Temple is the centre of the city, with the other sights within walking distance or a short ride.
The holiest Sikh shrine, in the centre of the Amrit Sarovar pool, reached by a causeway. Visitors walk around the pool, and can queue to enter the temple itself. The complex is at its most beautiful at dawn and at night.
Tip Cover your head, remove shoes, wash your feet and avoid tobacco and alcohol.
The community kitchen, where volunteers cook and serve simple vegetarian meals of dal, roti and rice to tens of thousands of people every day, eaten sitting on the floor.
Tip Accept the meal with both hands, and consider helping to wash dishes.
The seat of temporal authority in Sikhism, facing the Golden Temple, damaged in 1984 and rebuilt.
Tip Ask a volunteer to explain the history.
A walled garden where, on 13 April 1919, British troops fired on a crowd, killing hundreds of civilians. A memorial and a preserved well mark the site, and bullet marks remain on some walls.
Tip Visit with quiet respect.
A museum in the old town hall that records the 1947 Partition of India through personal stories, letters and objects.
Tip Allow at least two hours.
A daily ceremony at the border with Pakistan, about 30 km from Amritsar, where soldiers on both sides lower the flags with marching and stamping. It has been scaled back at times when tensions have risen.
Tip Check whether the ceremony is running and in what form.
Things to do
Amritsar rewards those who take their time at the temple and eat well.
The mood changes through the day, and both early morning and evening are memorable.
Tip Stay for the palki sahib procession at night, if it suits your schedule.
Sit on the floor with pilgrims and share a simple meal.
Tip Take only what you can eat, and do not waste food.
Stuffed leavened bread baked in a tandoor, served with chole and butter.
Tip Go for breakfast.
The lanes around the temple are full of shops selling phulkari embroidery, juttis (shoes) and sweets.
Tip Bargain lightly.
An 18th-century fort turned heritage attraction, with shows and exhibits.
Tip Check the schedule.
A boisterous show of patriotism, whose atmosphere is lively.
Tip Arrive early for a seat.
Local food
Amritsar's food is robust Punjabi cooking, with wheat, dairy and tandoor at its centre.
A stuffed flatbread of potato or paneer, baked in a clay oven, served with chole and a knob of butter.
Where to try it Famous kulcha shops in the old city.
Spiced chickpeas with puffy fried bread.
Where to try it Breakfast spots.
Fish fillets in a spiced gram flour batter, deep fried until crisp.
Where to try it Restaurants near Lawrence Road.
A thick, sweet yoghurt drink in a large glass, topped with cream.
Where to try it Ahuja Milk Bhandar and other shops.
Punjabi classics, cooked in the tandoor.
Where to try it Dhabas and restaurants.
Sweet, syrupy treats.
Where to try it Sweet shops.
Accommodation
Staying near the Golden Temple is convenient, and many pilgrim guesthouses take foreigners.
Transport
Amritsar is in the far north-west of India, near the Pakistan border.
The old city and the temple are best on foot, and rickshaws and cabs cover the rest.
When to go
Amritsar has hot summers and cold winters, with fog from December to January.
Cool and clear, though fog can delay travel. Nights are cold.
Warm and pleasant. Vaisakhi in April is a major Sikh festival.
Very hot, often above 40°C.
Hot and humid with rain.
Worth planning around: May and June. Gurpurab celebrations in November are wonderful but crowded.
Itinerary
The temple and history on the first day, and food, the border and the old city on the second.
Temple and memory.
Eat and watch.
Travel tips
A few points of etiquette make the visit smoother.
FAQ
Yes. It welcomes people of all faiths, and entry is free.
Modest clothes, with your head covered and shoes removed.
Two days, or one long day if you are short of time.
It has been open to visitors in normal times, but it has been scaled back or suspended during periods of tension, so check locally.
It is generally safe and friendly, and used to visitors.
The langar is vegetarian. The city also has excellent non-vegetarian dishes.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Amritsar, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
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