Uttar Pradesh, Ganges plain · India
One of the world's oldest living cities: a mile of stone ghats on the Ganges, dawn boat rides, evening fire ceremonies and a maze of lanes leading to temples, silk weavers and tea stalls.
Photo: Vyacheslav Argenberg · CC BY 4.0
Varanasi, also called Benares or Kashi, is on the western bank of the Ganges, and it is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. It has been a centre of Hindu learning and pilgrimage for at least 2,500 years, and Hindus believe that to die here and be cremated on the riverbank is to be released from the cycle of rebirth. Pilgrims come from all over India to bathe in the river and to perform rituals for their ancestors.
The heart of the city is the river, lined for about 6 km by more than 80 ghats, stepped embankments where people bathe, pray, exercise, do laundry and cremate the dead. Behind them, narrow lanes twist between temples, shrines, silk shops, sweet stalls and old havelis, so narrow that few vehicles can enter.
Varanasi is intense, and it does not soften itself for visitors. Death and life are in the open, cows and pilgrims share the alleys, and the sights, sounds and smells can be overwhelming. Many travellers find it the most memorable place in India, and others find it too much. Come with an open mind, and respect for the people for whom it is sacred.
Why visit
Varanasi is a living place of worship, and one of the most powerful cultural experiences in Asia.
Boat trips at sunrise, with the light on the river and the ghats filling with pilgrims, are among India's great sights.
An evening fire ceremony with priests, bells, chants and lamps at Dashashwamedh Ghat, drawing thousands.
Walking the maze of alleys is a journey through a city where old traditions continue.
A short trip to where the Buddha gave his first sermon, with a huge stupa and monastic ruins.
Banarasi silk brocade, and a distinctive food culture of kachori, lassi and sweets.
Main attractions
The river is the main attraction, and the surrounding lanes, temples and Sarnath fill the days.
More than 80 stone stairways to the river, each with its own character and history. Assi Ghat in the south, Dashashwamedh in the centre and Manikarnika, the main cremation ghat, are among the best known.
Tip Take a rowing boat at sunrise, and walk the ghats in the afternoon.
The main ghat, where priests perform an elaborate evening ceremony with lamps, incense, drums and chanting, in front of a large crowd, watched from the steps or from boats.
Tip Arrive early for a good spot, and watch from a boat for the view.
The most sacred Shiva temple in the city, with a gold-covered spire, rebuilt in the 18th century, and a redeveloped corridor that links it to the river. Security is tight, and rules for non-Hindu visitors and photography change.
Tip Check the current rules and carry ID.
About 10 km from the city, the deer park where the Buddha preached his first sermon. The Dhamek Stupa, the ruins of monasteries and a museum with the Ashoka lion capital, the origin of India's national emblem, are here.
Tip Allow half a day, and go in the morning.
A labyrinth of narrow lanes between the ghats and the main road, full of shrines, sweet shops, weavers and cows.
Tip Go with a guide the first time, and keep to the right of mopeds.
A large campus founded in 1916, with tree-lined avenues, the Bharat Kala Bhavan museum and the New Vishwanath Temple.
Tip A quiet break from the ghats.
Things to do
Varanasi is best experienced slowly, and by the river.
Hire a rowing boat for an hour or two as the sun comes up, seeing the ghats and the ritual bathing from the water.
Tip Agree the price in advance, and avoid taking photos of cremations.
See the evening ceremony from the steps or from a boat.
Tip Watch respectfully, and keep a small bag.
Banarasi silk brocades are woven in workshops across the city, and some allow visits.
Tip Buy directly from a weaver to avoid commissions.
A slow stroll along the riverfront, passing temples, yoga groups and tea stalls.
Tip Go in the early morning or at sunset.
Varanasi has a long tradition of classical music, and lessons in sitar, tabla or yoga are available.
Tip Book through your guesthouse.
See the Buddhist ruins and museum.
Tip Combine with a visit to Ramnagar Fort on the opposite bank.
Local food
Varanasi's food is vegetarian and street-based, and most temples and much of the old city do not serve meat.
Crisp fried bread stuffed with spiced lentils and served with a potato curry, a traditional breakfast.
Where to try it Street stalls in the old city.
A betel leaf parcel with sweet or savoury fillings, chewed after meals.
Where to try it Paan shops across the city.
Thick yoghurt drinks in clay cups, sometimes topped with malai and dry fruit.
Where to try it Blue Lassi and other shops in the old city.
A frothy, saffron-scented milk foam, a winter delicacy served from carts.
Where to try it Old city lanes in winter.
Spicy tomato and potato snacks, for which the city is known.
Where to try it Kashi Chaat Bhandar and street stalls.
Rabri, peda and other milk-based sweets.
Where to try it Sweet shops near Godowlia.
Accommodation
Staying on or near the ghats puts you in the heart of the action.
Transport
Varanasi is on the Ganges plain in eastern Uttar Pradesh, well connected by train and air.
The old city is on foot, with rickshaws and boats on the edges.
When to go
Varanasi has a hot, humid climate with a strong monsoon. Winters are cool and often foggy.
Cool and pleasant, though morning fog can delay flights and trains.
Warm, with Holi and Mahashivratri celebrations.
Extremely hot, often above 42°C.
The river rises, covering many ghats, and boat trips are limited.
Worth planning around: May and June for the heat, and monsoon flooding. Diwali and Dev Deepawali (in November) bring huge crowds and are spectacular.
Itinerary
The ghats and the old city, then Sarnath.
Ghats and the aarti.
Buddhist heritage.
Travel tips
Varanasi rewards care and respect.
FAQ
Yes, for those who can handle its intensity. It is one of the most moving and unforgettable places in India.
It is possible to see the burning ghats from a distance, but photography is not allowed, and many families find it intrusive. Be discreet, and do not follow touts.
Not for visitors. The river is heavily polluted, and it is safest to watch from the shore or a boat.
Two days is enough for the main experiences, including the sunrise boat, the aarti and Sarnath.
October to March. Dev Deepawali in November is spectacular but crowded.
Many do go, but the lanes can be crowded and intense. Dress modestly, avoid dark alleys at night and choose reputable guesthouses.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Varanasi, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
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