Kerala, south-western India · India
A green, laid-back coast of palm-fringed backwaters, spice hills, old Portuguese and Dutch trading quarters and one of India's best regional cuisines.
Photo: Paul Arps from The Netherlands · CC BY 2.0
Kerala is a narrow strip of land on India's south-western coast, between the Arabian Sea and the Western Ghats. Its long trading history brought Arab, Chinese, Portuguese, Dutch, British and Jewish merchants to its ports, and the mix of influences shows in its architecture, food and religion. Hindus, Muslims and Christians live side by side, and the state has some of the highest literacy and health indicators in India.
The backwaters, a network of lagoons, canals and rivers running behind the coast for hundreds of kilometres, are the region's signature. Around Alleppey (Alappuzha) and Kumarakom, villages, rice paddies and coconut groves line the water, and life moves by boat. A night on a traditional houseboat, or a day in a canoe, is the standard way to experience it.
Kochi (Cochin) is the gateway. Its old quarter, Fort Kochi, has Portuguese and Dutch buildings, a 16th-century synagogue, art galleries and the famous cantilevered Chinese fishing nets. In the hills inland, Munnar's tea plantations offer cool air and views. Kerala is the easiest and calmest part of India for a first visit, and a natural counterpart to the north.
Why visit
Kerala offers a slower, greener India, with excellent food and easy travel.
A maze of canals and lagoons, best seen from a small boat or a canoe.
Colonial buildings, galleries and cafés in an atmospheric old port.
Munnar's rolling plantations and the spice gardens near Thekkady.
Coconut-based curries, fresh seafood, appam and banana-leaf meals.
Kathakali dance-drama, temple festivals and Ayurvedic treatment.
Main attractions
A typical trip runs from Kochi to the backwaters, with an optional detour to the hills.
The heart of the backwater region, with canals and lagoons around Alleppey and the huge Vembanad Lake. Houseboats, shared ferries and canoes all travel through them.
Tip Choose a small canal in the early morning, when it is calm.
Huge cantilevered nets, lowered into the water by teams of fishermen, along the waterfront at Fort Kochi. They are traditionally linked to Chinese traders, and are best at sunset.
Tip Buy fresh fish and have it cooked nearby.
A quarter of antique shops and spice warehouses in Mattancherry, with a synagogue dating from 1568, one of the oldest in the Commonwealth, decorated with blue Chinese tiles.
Tip Check opening days, as it is closed on Saturdays.
A Portuguese-built palace with Kerala murals, and one of the oldest European churches in India, where Vasco da Gama was first buried in 1524.
Tip See both in the same morning.
A hill station at about 1,500 metres in the Western Ghats, surrounded by tea estates, waterfalls and viewpoints. It is about 4 hours by road from Kochi.
Tip Allow at least one night.
Things to do
Kerala is for slowing down, and for time on and beside the water.
A converted kettuvallam, a traditional rice barge, with a crew and cook, drifts through the backwaters.
Tip Choose a licensed boat and check the type of fuel and waste practices.
A small boat can reach narrow canals that big houseboats cannot, past homes, rice fields and temples.
Tip Go early in the morning.
A traditional dance-drama with elaborate make-up and costumes, based on epics.
Tip Arrive early to watch the make-up.
Kerala is a centre for Ayurveda, with treatments from short massages to multi-week programmes.
Tip Choose accredited centres.
See pepper, cardamom, cinnamon and vanilla growing, near Thekkady and Munnar.
Tip Buy spices directly.
A public ferry from Alleppey to Kottayam offers a cheap backwater trip of a few hours.
Tip Check the schedule.
Local food
Kerala's cuisine relies on coconut, curry leaves, pepper, seafood and rice, and it is one of the best in India.
A lacy rice-flour pancake with a soft centre, eaten with a mild coconut milk stew of vegetables or chicken.
Where to try it Breakfast in homestays and restaurants.
Fish cooked in a sour, spicy sauce with coconut milk and kokum, often in a clay pot.
Where to try it Toddy shops and local restaurants.
A vegetarian feast served on a banana leaf, with more than 20 dishes, at festivals such as Onam.
Where to try it Restaurants and homes during Onam.
Pearl spot fish marinated in spices, wrapped in banana leaf and grilled.
Where to try it Backwater restaurants.
Steamed cylinders of rice flour and coconut with a black chickpea curry.
Where to try it Breakfast stalls.
A mild palm sap alcohol, sold in licensed toddy shops with spicy food.
Where to try it Toddy shops near Alleppey.
Accommodation
Stay in Fort Kochi for its atmosphere, and choose a houseboat or a homestay for the backwaters.
Transport
Kochi is the main gateway to Kerala, with an international airport and rail links.
Kerala's compact size makes it easy to move between the main places by road, train or boat.
When to go
Kerala is tropical, with a strong monsoon from June to September.
Warm, dry and pleasant. Peak season.
Hot and humid, cooler in the hills.
Heavy rain, lush landscapes and cheaper rates. Popular for Ayurveda.
Green and warm, with showers.
Worth planning around: The heaviest monsoon weeks in July if you want to be outdoors.
Itinerary
Kochi's heritage first, then the backwaters, and a rest.
Heritage and a sunset.
A houseboat afternoon.
Canoes and villages.
Hills or home.
Travel tips
A few things help you enjoy Kerala.
FAQ
Four days for Kochi and the backwaters, and six or seven if you add Munnar and the beaches.
For one night, yes, for the experience. Big, crowded houseboats can be less pleasant than small boats or canoes.
October to March. The monsoon is wet but green, and popular for Ayurveda.
It is considered one of the safest and calmest parts of India.
No. Seafood, chicken and beef are all eaten, though there are excellent vegetarian dishes.
It brings heavy rain and some travel disruption, but many visitors enjoy the green landscapes and quiet.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Kerala, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
Goa, west coast, India
A former Portuguese colony with 100 km of beaches, the UNESCO-listed churches of Old Goa, the Latin Quarter of Panjim, forts, markets and a food culture found nowhere else in India.
Don't miss Fresh fish and a cold drink at a beach shack, watching the sun drop into the Arabian Sea.
Explore Destination — GoaKarnataka, southern India, India
A UNESCO-listed archaeological landscape of temples, palaces and markets from the 14th to 16th centuries, with a living temple town, river crossings and a rocky, otherworldly setting.
Don't miss Sunrise from Matanga Hill, with the boulders and temple towers glowing across the valley.
Explore Destination — HampiMaharashtra, west coast, India
The financial and film capital of India, with the Gateway of India, the UNESCO-listed Victorian and Art Deco ensembles, Elephanta Caves, street food and a vibrant arts scene.
Don't miss A stroll along Marine Drive at dusk, as the lights come on along the Queen's Necklace.
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