Goa, west coast · India
India's smallest state: palm-lined beaches, whitewashed Portuguese churches, spice plantations, seafood shacks and a laid-back rhythm that is unlike anywhere else in the country.
Photo: iMahesh · CC BY-SA 4.0
Goa was a Portuguese colony for about 450 years, from 1510 until India annexed it in 1961, which is much longer than the British ruled most of the subcontinent. The legacy is everywhere: in the Catholic churches, the Portuguese-style villas with balconies and tiled roofs, the food, the surnames and the relaxed attitude to alcohol and holidays. About a quarter of the population is Christian.
The coast is 100 km of sand, divided in practice into two. North Goa, around Baga, Calangute, Anjuna, Vagator and Arambol, is livelier, with markets, beach clubs and nightlife. South Goa, around Palolem, Agonda and Colva, is quieter, greener and more relaxed. Inland, rice fields, spice plantations, waterfalls and forest cover the Western Ghats.
Goa is best used as a place to rest, after the intensity of the north or as a beach stop on a longer trip. Its heritage is also worth seeing: the churches of Old Goa are a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the old quarter of Panjim, Fontainhas, is a maze of colourful Portuguese houses.
Why visit
Goa offers beaches, heritage and food on a compact coast, and is India's easiest place to unwind.
From party beaches with music to quiet coves and long open sands.
Old Goa's churches, Fontainhas and colonial mansions.
Fish curry rice, vindaloo, sorpotel and bebinca, with Portuguese, Konkani and Indian influences.
Beach shacks, yoga, cafés and markets, with less hassle than other parts of India.
Spice plantations, waterfalls and wildlife sanctuaries in the Western Ghats.
Main attractions
Split your time between the beach and the heritage sites, and choose your side of the coast.
The former Portuguese capital, now a UNESCO site, with the Basilica of Bom Jesus, which holds the remains of St. Francis Xavier, and the huge Sé Cathedral. Most of the city itself has vanished, but the churches remain.
Tip Go in the morning, and dress modestly.
The Latin Quarter of Goa's capital, with narrow lanes of pastel houses, small chapels and cafés, and a preserved Portuguese atmosphere.
Tip Walk in the late afternoon and stop for a coffee.
A well-preserved 17th-century Portuguese fort on a headland north of Panjim, with a lighthouse and views along the coast.
Tip Go at sunset.
A crescent of white sand fringed by palms and fishing boats, with quiet neighbours such as Agonda and Patnem.
Tip Stay a few nights in South Goa.
The lively northern beaches, with shacks, water sports, clubs and the famous Wednesday flea market at Anjuna.
Tip Go for the atmosphere, but be aware of crowds in the high season.
Working farms inland where you can see pepper, cardamom, vanilla and cashew, and eat a traditional lunch.
Tip Book a half-day tour.
Things to do
Goa is a beach destination first, with plenty of options for the days in between.
Simple seafood restaurants on the sand, serving grilled fish, prawns and cold beer.
Tip Choose by the day's catch.
A guided walk through a working farm, followed by a Goan lunch.
Tip Go in the morning.
Explore the old Portuguese quarter, with its colour and small chapels.
Tip Try the local bakeries.
Boat trips from Sinquerim and Palolem spot dolphins in the morning.
Tip Go with an established operator.
Yoga is popular in Goa, from drop-in classes to retreats.
Tip Check the teacher's qualifications.
Night markets sell clothes, crafts and food, with live music.
Tip Check the schedule.
Local food
Goan food mixes Portuguese and Konkani traditions, with coconut, vinegar, chilli and seafood.
The staple lunch: fish in a tangy, coconut-based curry with rice.
Where to try it Local restaurants and beach shacks.
Spicy, vinegary pork dishes with Portuguese origins.
Where to try it Goan restaurants, particularly around Christmas.
Prawns in a spicy pickle-like sauce, and chicken in a coconut and spice gravy.
Where to try it Restaurants in Panjim.
A many-layered sweet of egg yolks, coconut milk and sugar.
Where to try it Bakeries and shops.
Soft local breads baked in wood ovens, eaten with curries or sausages.
Where to try it Village bakeries.
A local spirit distilled from cashew apples or coconut sap.
Where to try it Bars and shops.
Accommodation
Choose the coast that matches your mood, and book early for December and January.
Transport
Goa has two airports and good rail links.
Goa is small but spread out, and public transport is limited.
When to go
Goa has a tropical climate, with a strong monsoon from June to September.
Dry, sunny and warm. Peak season, with Christmas and New Year very busy.
Hot and humid, and many places start closing.
Heavy rain, rough seas, and most beach shacks closed. The landscape is lush and prices are low.
Green, warm and quiet, as the season begins.
Worth planning around: The monsoon, when the sea is dangerous for swimming, and Christmas and New Year unless you love crowds.
Itinerary
Heritage and the north, then a slower stay in the south.
Churches and streets.
Fort and beaches.
Spices and forest.
Quiet beaches.
Travel tips
Goa is relaxed, and a few tips help.
FAQ
North Goa for nightlife, markets and activity, and South Goa for quieter beaches and a relaxed atmosphere.
Four or five days for the coast and heritage sites.
November to February. The monsoon closes many beach shacks.
It is a relaxed destination, but take care with scooters, sea currents and petty theft, and keep an eye on your drinks.
Yes, it is widely available and cheaper than in most of India.
Mopa (GOX) is closer to North Goa, and Dabolim (GOI) is closer to Panjim and South Goa.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Goa, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
Maharashtra, west coast, India
The financial and film capital of India, with the Gateway of India, the UNESCO-listed Victorian and Art Deco ensembles, Elephanta Caves, street food and a vibrant arts scene.
Don't miss A stroll along Marine Drive at dusk, as the lights come on along the Queen's Necklace.
Explore Destination — MumbaiKarnataka, southern India, India
A UNESCO-listed archaeological landscape of temples, palaces and markets from the 14th to 16th centuries, with a living temple town, river crossings and a rocky, otherworldly setting.
Don't miss Sunrise from Matanga Hill, with the boulders and temple towers glowing across the valley.
Explore Destination — HampiKerala, south-western India, India
Kerala's slow, watery landscapes: houseboats and canoes on the Alleppey backwaters, the historic port of Fort Kochi, the tea hills of Munnar and a rich food and dance heritage.
Don't miss A dawn canoe ride on a quiet backwater canal, with kingfishers on the palms and village life waking up.
Explore Destination — Kerala: Backwaters and KochiRead next
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