National Capital Territory of Delhi, northern India · India
The capital of a hundred capitals: Mughal forts, medieval minarets and tombs, the grand avenues of the British Raj and the noisy lanes and food stalls of Old Delhi.
Photo: Yann · CC BY-SA 3.0
Delhi has been the capital of one empire or another for most of the last thousand years, and it has been built and rebuilt many times, by the Delhi sultans, the Mughals and the British. Its ruins, tombs and mosques are scattered across the modern city, and a walk through Delhi is a walk through layers of history.
The city falls roughly into two halves. Old Delhi, or Shahjahanabad, is the walled city founded by Shah Jahan in the 17th century, with the Red Fort, the Jama Masjid and the maze of Chandni Chowk. New Delhi, laid out by Edwin Lutyens and Herbert Baker and inaugurated as the capital in 1931, has wide avenues, government buildings and India Gate. Beyond these, the south of the city has the Qutb Minar, Humayun's Tomb and a number of other medieval monuments.
Delhi is also a huge, hot, polluted and hectic megacity of more than 30 million people in the metropolitan area. Air quality is a serious problem from about October to January. But its food, its monuments and its energy make it a rewarding start to a trip to India.
Why visit
Delhi is the arrival point for most visitors, and it deserves more than a night.
Three UNESCO World Heritage Sites, the Red Fort, Humayun's Tomb and the Qutb complex, are all within the city.
Narrow lanes, spice markets, mosques and street food stalls, in a part of the city that has barely changed in a century.
From kebabs and butter chicken to chaat, parathas and sweets, Delhi is one of India's best places to eat.
Lodhi Gardens, the National Museum and many smaller collections give a calmer side.
Trains and flights connect Delhi to almost everywhere, and the metro is clean and efficient.
Main attractions
Delhi's sights are spread out, so group them by area: Old Delhi, New Delhi and the south.
The great red sandstone fortress-palace of Shah Jahan, built between 1639 and 1648, from whose ramparts India's prime minister addresses the nation each Independence Day. Inside are audience halls, pavilions and a museum.
Tip Visit in the morning, and check the days it is closed.
One of the largest mosques in India, completed in 1656, with a vast courtyard, three domes and two minarets from which you get a view of Old Delhi.
Tip Cover up, remove shoes and avoid prayer times.
The main street of Old Delhi, a chaos of rickshaws, sweet shops, spice markets, jewellers and alleys. Behind the main road are the specialist bazaars and street food lanes.
Tip Go on foot or by cycle rickshaw, and come hungry.
A garden tomb built in the 1560s for the second Mughal emperor, and an important forerunner of the Taj Mahal. Its symmetrical gardens and red sandstone are beautifully restored.
Tip Go late in the afternoon for the warm light.
A 72-metre victory tower begun in the late 12th century, the tallest brick minaret in the world, in a complex of early Indo-Islamic ruins, including an iron pillar that has stood for about 1,600 years.
Tip Go early to avoid crowds.
A war memorial for Indian soldiers of the First World War, at the end of a ceremonial avenue that runs to the presidential palace. Locals picnic and eat ice cream here in the evening.
Tip Go in the evening when it is lit up.
A park with 15th- and 16th-century tombs of the Sayyid and Lodhi dynasties, popular with joggers and picnickers.
Tip A calm break from the crowds.
Things to do
Delhi is best sampled across a few themes: history, food and quiet places.
Follow a guide through the lanes for parathas, kebabs, chaat, jalebi and lassi in the shops that have been serving them for generations.
Tip Go with a reputable guide, and eat where locals queue.
A clean, fast and cheap network that reaches most sights and is far quicker than road traffic.
Tip Use the women's coaches if you prefer, and avoid rush hour.
A large Sikh temple with a golden dome and a sacred pool, where a community kitchen serves free meals to all.
Tip Cover your head and remove shoes.
Ruined tombs and mosques in the south of the city, and a medieval reservoir with cafés and boutiques.
Tip Good for a slow afternoon.
A large collection of Indian art and archaeology, from Harappan finds to miniature paintings.
Tip Check opening hours.
Handicrafts from across India at Dilli Haat, and bookshops, cafés and boutiques at Khan Market.
Tip Bargain lightly at Dilli Haat.
Local food
Delhi's food is Punjabi and Mughlai at heart, with street food from across northern India.
Tandoori-cooked chicken in rich tomato and butter sauce, and skewered kebabs, at restaurants in Old Delhi such as Karim's.
Where to try it Old Delhi near the Jama Masjid.
Stuffed, fried flatbreads with spiced potato, paneer or other fillings, served with curd and pickles, at the famous Paranthe Wali Gali.
Where to try it Chandni Chowk.
Tangy, crunchy snacks such as aloo tikki, dahi bhalla and golgappa.
Where to try it Street stalls in Old Delhi and Khan Market.
Spiced chickpeas with puffy fried bread, a hearty Punjabi breakfast or lunch.
Where to try it Local restaurants across the city.
Hot, syrupy fried sweets and thick yoghurt drinks.
Where to try it Old Delhi sweet shops.
A winter delicacy of frothy sweet milk foam, sold from carts in Old Delhi.
Where to try it Old Delhi in winter.
Accommodation
Delhi is huge, and location matters. Central New Delhi and the areas near the metro are the best bases.
Transport
Delhi is India's main international gateway and rail hub.
Traffic is heavy, and the metro is the quickest way to move.
When to go
Delhi has an extreme climate, with very hot summers, a monsoon from July to September and cold, foggy, polluted winters.
Pleasant days, cold nights. Air pollution can be severe, particularly from November to January.
Warm and clear, before the heat builds.
Very hot, often above 40°C.
Humid with heavy showers, and clearer air.
Worth planning around: May and June for the heat, and the worst smog weeks from late October to early January if you are sensitive to air quality.
Itinerary
Old Delhi on the first day, New Delhi and the tombs on the second, and the south on the third.
Fort, mosque and lanes.
Mughal and colonial Delhi.
Minarets and ruins.
Travel tips
Delhi is intense, and a few habits help.
FAQ
Two or three days. One day gives you Old Delhi, and another the tombs and New Delhi.
It is generally safe for visitors, though it has the usual big-city hazards. Women should take particular care at night and use registered taxis.
In winter, yes. The worst months are November to January. Check daily readings and plan indoor activities on bad days.
October to March, though winter smog is a concern. Spring is pleasant.
New Delhi or South Delhi is more comfortable, and the metro connects everywhere. Old Delhi is atmospheric but chaotic.
The Airport Express metro is the quickest and cheapest option. Prepaid taxis and app cabs are alternatives.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Delhi, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
Uttar Pradesh, northern India, India
Home to the Taj Mahal, Agra Fort and the abandoned city of Fatehpur Sikri: three UNESCO sites that together define Mughal India.
Don't miss The Taj Mahal at sunrise, when the marble turns from grey to pink to white.
Explore Destination — AgraRajasthan, northern India, India
The capital of Rajasthan, a UNESCO-listed walled city with the Hawa Mahal, City Palace, Jantar Mantar and Amber Fort, and India's best craft shopping.
Don't miss Amber Fort in the early morning, before the crowds and the heat.
Explore Destination — JaipurPunjab, north-western India, India
The Punjabi city of the Harmandir Sahib, or Golden Temple, with its free community kitchen, the Jallianwala Bagh memorial, the Partition Museum and the daily border ceremony at Wagah.
Don't miss The Golden Temple at dawn, when the gold reflects in the still water and the hymns begin.
Explore Destination — AmritsarRead next
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