The Complete Israel Travel Guide

Israel is about 420 km from north to south and rarely more than 100 km wide, and it falls into five zones that differ sharply in landscape, history and mood.

Jerusalem and the Judean hills. The historic and religious centre. Jerusalem holds the Western Wall, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the Dome of the Rock and Al-Aqsa Mosque, within a few hundred metres of each other in the Old City. The city is high, cool in winter and more conservative in feel than the coast.

The coast. A Mediterranean strip of beaches and cities. Tel Aviv and Jaffa are the country's secular, cosmopolitan heart, with a huge stock of Bauhaus architecture and a beach culture. To the north, Haifa climbs Mount Carmel with the Baháʼí Gardens, and Acre is an Ottoman port built over a Crusader city.

The Galilee and the north. Green, hilly and multi-faith. Nazareth is the largest Arab city in Israel and holds the traditional site of the Annunciation. The Sea of Galilee is central to the Gospel stories, and Safed is a hilltop centre of Jewish mysticism. In the valleys, Megiddo and Beit She'an hold two of the country's finest archaeological sites.

The Dead Sea and the Judean Desert. A short drive east of Jerusalem the land falls to the lowest point on land. Masada and the Dead Sea combine a hilltop fortress, an oasis at Ein Gedi and salt-water swimming.

The Negev. More than half of Israel's land area is desert. The Negev and Mitzpe Ramon offer craters, Nabataean ruins and some of the country's clearest night skies, and the Red Sea resort of Eilat lies at the far end.

Israel's small size means nearly everything is a day trip from somewhere, but distances feel longer than they look because of traffic and Shabbat.

Trains. The best way to move between Tel Aviv, Ben Gurion airport, Jerusalem, Haifa and Acre. Services are frequent, modern and cheap, and the fast line to Jerusalem takes about 30 minutes.

Buses. Extensive and cheap, reaching places the train does not, such as Nazareth, Tiberias and Safed. Routes are easy to plan with the Moovit app.

Car. The most flexible option for the Galilee, the Dead Sea and the Negev. Roads are good, and driving in Israel is fast but manageable. Check your rental agreement for restrictions, particularly for the West Bank.

Shabbat. Public transport stops from Friday afternoon until Saturday evening. Sherut taxis and a few routes in Arab towns continue, and Tel Aviv and Haifa are more relaxed, but you should plan Friday evening to Saturday as a day for walking or resting.

Israel has a Mediterranean climate on the coast and in the hills, and a desert climate in the south and in the Jordan Valley. The seasons are more extreme than many visitors expect.

March to May and September to November are the best months. The days are warm and clear, and the hills of the Galilee are green in spring. Autumn is warm enough to swim, and the crowds are thinner.

Summer is hot and humid on the coast, and extremely hot at the Dead Sea and in the Negev, where daytime temperatures often exceed 40°C. Sightseeing needs to be early or late, and the beach and the hills are the best options.

Winter is wet and cool in Jerusalem and the north, occasionally with snow, and mild on the coast. It is a good time for the desert and the Dead Sea, and hotels are cheaper.

The religious calendar matters. Passover and Easter fill Jerusalem and Nazareth, and Christmas is busy in Nazareth and the West Bank. Rosh Hashanah, Yom Kippur and Sukkot in September and October affect transport and prices, and Ramadan affects opening hours in Arab towns.

Israel is a diverse society, and etiquette depends on where you are. Tel Aviv is relaxed, and Jerusalem's religious neighbourhoods are conservative. Arab towns such as Nazareth and Acre have their own customs.

At holy sites, cover shoulders and knees, keep your voice low and follow the rules posted at each entrance. Women may need to cover their hair in some churches and synagogues, and men to cover their heads at the Western Wall.

On Shabbat, avoid driving, smoking or making noise in religious neighbourhoods. Do not photograph people without their consent, and avoid photographing soldiers or checkpoints.

The conflict is a painful subject for many people, and opinions vary widely. Listen with an open mind, avoid stereotyping, and treat everyone as an individual.