Jerusalem District · Israel
A walled city of golden stone where the holiest places of three religions sit within a few hundred metres of each other.
Photo: Godot13 · CC BY-SA 4.0
Jerusalem has been fought over, rebuilt and revered for at least three thousand years. To Jews it is the site of the First and Second Temples and the focus of their prayers for two millennia. To Christians it is where Jesus was crucified and, according to tradition, buried and resurrected. To Muslims it is the site of al-Haram al-Sharif, the Noble Sanctuary, from which Muhammad is believed to have ascended to heaven, and the third holiest city in Islam.
The core of the city is the Old City, a square kilometre enclosed by Ottoman walls built in the 16th century and divided into four quarters — Jewish, Christian, Muslim and Armenian. It is a maze of stone lanes, souks, courtyards and domes, and it is on the UNESCO World Heritage List, listed as being in danger. It lies in East Jerusalem, which Israel captured from Jordan in 1967 and later annexed, a step that most of the international community does not recognise. Israel regards the whole of Jerusalem as its capital, while the Palestinians claim East Jerusalem as the capital of a future state. The Old City is one of the most sensitive places in the world.
Beyond the walls, West Jerusalem is a modern city of neighbourhoods, museums and the Mahane Yehuda market, with the Israel Museum and Yad Vashem among its major institutions. East Jerusalem's Palestinian neighbourhoods, the Mount of Olives and the American Colony add another layer. The city rewards slow exploration, an early start and an open mind.
Why visit
Jerusalem is not like anywhere else, and even people who are not religious find it moving.
The Western Wall, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and the Haram al-Sharif can be visited in a single morning, and watching people pray at each is unforgettable.
Canaanite, Israelite, Roman, Byzantine, Crusader, Mamluk and Ottoman remains are stacked on top of each other, and archaeological tunnels and museums let you see them.
The Old City is a living neighbourhood, with schools, shops and families, and the markets remain a good place to eat, drink coffee and watch daily life.
The Israel Museum holds the Dead Sea Scrolls in the Shrine of the Book, and Yad Vashem, Israel's Holocaust memorial, is a profound and important visit.
Mahane Yehuda is one of the best food markets in the region, and the restaurants of the Old City and East Jerusalem serve some of the best hummus and knafeh in the country.
Main attractions
The Old City takes at least a full day. The Mount of Olives, Mount Zion and the museums fill a second and third.
A retaining wall of the platform of the Second Temple, built by Herod, and the holiest place where Jews can pray. There are separate sections for men and women, and prayers and notes are pushed into the cracks.
Tip Cover your shoulders and knees, and men should cover their heads (paper kippot are provided). Open 24 hours; it is especially moving on Friday evening.
A large platform that holds the Dome of the Rock, built in 691 CE, and the Al-Aqsa Mosque. It is the holiest site in Judaism and the third holiest in Islam. It is administered by the Islamic Waqf, and non-Muslim visitors may enter at limited hours through the Mughrabi Gate, but may not enter the buildings or pray.
Tip Hours and access change often and are restricted during Ramadan, on Fridays and at times of tension. Check on the day, dress modestly and expect a security check.
The church built over the traditional sites of Jesus's crucifixion and tomb, shared by six Christian denominations under a delicate arrangement known as the Status Quo. The keys have been held by two Muslim families for centuries.
Tip Arrive at opening to avoid queues at the tomb (the Edicule), and look for the Stone of Anointing and the stairs up to Calvary.
The route that Christian tradition says Jesus walked to the crucifixion, with fourteen stations that lead through the Muslim Quarter to the Holy Sepulchre. Franciscan pilgrims follow it on Friday afternoons.
Tip It is a working street with shops and traffic. Walk it slowly and stay for the Friday procession if you can.
The ridge east of the Old City with the best panorama of Jerusalem, the ancient Jewish cemetery, the Church of All Nations and the Garden of Gethsemane. The view of the golden Dome across the Kidron Valley is one of the world's great city views.
Tip Go in the morning, when the light is on the Old City, and walk down to Gethsemane.
A hill just outside the Old City walls with the Dormition Abbey, the traditional Tomb of David and the Room of the Last Supper (Cenacle). It has been a pilgrimage centre for centuries.
Tip Check opening hours, which vary on Shabbat and religious holidays.
A citadel at the Jaffa Gate with a museum on the history of Jerusalem, and a rampart walk around parts of the Old City walls with excellent views.
Tip The evening sound-and-light show has run in summer and is worth checking.
Israel's national museum, with archaeology, art and the Shrine of the Book, which houses the Dead Sea Scrolls, some of the oldest known biblical manuscripts. A large model of Jerusalem in the Second Temple period is close by.
Tip Allow at least three hours, and visit the Shrine of the Book first.
Israel's world Holocaust remembrance centre, with an extraordinary museum that follows the story of the Holocaust, and the Hall of Names and the Children's Memorial. It is powerful and important.
Tip Allow three to four hours, and consider it before the rest of the day. It is not recommended for young children.
A peaceful garden north of the Old City where many Protestants believe the crucifixion and resurrection took place, as an alternative to the Holy Sepulchre. The site is quiet and welcoming.
Tip The site has guided tours in many languages. Check opening hours.
Things to do
Jerusalem rewards a slow pace, an early start, and letting the city surprise you.
Start at the Jaffa Gate and work through the Armenian, Jewish, Muslim and Christian quarters, stopping for coffee and a snack in each. A walking tour or a good map helps.
Tip Go early, when the streets are quiet and shopkeepers are opening.
Friday evening at the Western Wall, an Orthodox liturgy at the Holy Sepulchre or the call to prayer from the Old City's minarets are unforgettable ways of experiencing the city's religious life.
Tip Observe respectfully from the side and do not photograph worshippers without consent.
A guided walk along the length of the Western Wall underground, past Herodian stones and Hasmonean passages. Tours must be booked in advance.
Tip Book early, particularly in spring and autumn.
The city's main market is a warren of fruit, spice, cheese, halva and baked-goods stalls by day and a bar and restaurant scene by night. Many stalls close early on Friday and for Shabbat.
Tip Go on a Thursday or Friday morning for the atmosphere, and eat before the Shabbat rush.
As the sun goes down, the Old City walls and the Dome glow gold, and the city lights come on. It is one of the great views in the Middle East.
Tip Go with other people, and take a taxi back. The walk down is quiet after dark.
Palestinian neighbourhoods around Salah al-Din Street and the American Colony hotel have good restaurants and shops, and a different perspective on the city.
Tip Ask your hotel about current conditions before you go.
Bethlehem is about 10 km south, and the Dead Sea 45 minutes east. Both can be visited in a day, though crossing to Bethlehem involves a checkpoint.
Tip Book a guide or tour for Bethlehem, and take your passport.
Local food
Jerusalem's cooking reflects its mix of communities: Ashkenazi, Sephardi, Palestinian and Armenian. Most of the city's restaurants are kosher on the Jewish side, and Palestinian places in the Old City and East Jerusalem are halal.
Warm, creamy hummus is a staple of Jerusalem's Old City and East Jerusalem, often served with fuul, tahini and fresh bread.
Where to try it Small hummus restaurants in the Old City and East Jerusalem.
A hot pastry of cheese and syrup, popular in the Old City and in East Jerusalem.
Where to try it Sweet shops in the Muslim Quarter.
Ka'ak, a ring of soft sesame bread sold from carts in the Old City, often eaten with za'atar or a boiled egg.
Where to try it Street carts near the Damascus Gate.
A local speciality of chicken hearts, livers and lamb, grilled on a flat plate with onions and spices. It is a Mahane Yehuda classic.
Where to try it Grill restaurants around the Mahane Yehuda market.
Blocks of halva in many flavours, plus baklava and dried fruit, sold by weight at Mahane Yehuda.
Where to try it Stalls in the Mahane Yehuda market.
A slow-cooked stew of beans, barley and meat traditionally eaten on Shabbat lunch. Some restaurants and hotels serve it.
Where to try it Restaurants and hotels serving a traditional Shabbat menu.
Accommodation
Jerusalem is a compact city, and the best base depends on whether you want the Old City, the market district or a quieter neighbourhood. Book well ahead for spring, autumn and holidays.
Transport
Jerusalem is about 55 km from Tel Aviv and Ben Gurion airport, and it is well connected by train, bus and road.
The Old City is walkable only, and the rest of the city is served by a light rail, buses and taxis.
When to go
Jerusalem sits at about 750 m and is cooler than the coast. Spring and autumn are ideal, summer is hot but dry, and winter is cold and wet with occasional snow.
Warm, sunny days and green hills. Easter and Passover bring crowds and high prices.
Hot and dry, typically 28–33°C, and busy. Sightseeing is best in the early morning and evening.
Warm days and clear light, though the High Holidays in September and October disrupt transport and opening hours.
Cold and wet, sometimes with snow, and few visitors. Christmas draws pilgrims. The city is atmospheric in the rain.
Worth planning around: Yom Kippur, when the whole city stops, and the major holiday weeks unless you want to see the celebrations and are ready for the prices.
Itinerary
The Old City on the first day, the Mount of Olives and museums on the second, and Mount Zion and Mahane Yehuda on the third. Assumes a base in or near the Old City.
The three great sites and the four quarters.
The view, and the story behind the city.
A gentler final day.
Travel tips
Jerusalem is intense, and a few habits help you enjoy it.
FAQ
Three to four is ideal. One is enough for the Old City's highlights, but a second and third let you see the Mount of Olives, the museums and the market at a reasonable pace.
Millions of visitors go each year without incident, and the Old City is heavily patrolled. The security situation can change quickly, and there have been periods of tension and violence in the city, so check current advice from your government before you go and while you are there.
Non-Muslims can visit the Haram al-Sharif compound at limited times, through the Mughrabi Gate, but cannot enter the Dome of the Rock or the Al-Aqsa Mosque. Access and hours change and can be restricted, so check before you go.
Modest clothing with shoulders and knees covered, especially in the Old City and at holy sites. Carry a scarf, wear comfortable shoes, and bring a light jacket in winter and evenings.
From Friday afternoon to Saturday evening, public transport stops, and most Jewish-area shops and restaurants close. The Old City's Muslim and Christian quarters and East Jerusalem remain open. The quiet streets and Friday-night prayers are an experience in themselves.
Yes. Bethlehem is about 10 km south, and many visitors go on a half-day trip, with a checkpoint on the way. Take your passport and check current conditions. See our guide to Bethlehem in the Palestinian Territories.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Jerusalem, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
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Don't miss The Basilica of the Annunciation, the largest church in the Middle East, built over the traditional site of Mary's home.
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