Southern District, Negev Desert · Israel
Israel's great desert, with the world's largest erosion crater, the Nabataean spice-route city of Avdat and some of the darkest skies in the Middle East.
The Negev covers more than half of Israel, about 12,000 square kilometres of desert that stretches south from Beersheba to the Red Sea at Eilat. It is a landscape of dry riverbeds, limestone plateaus, canyons and craters, punctuated by oases and small kibbutzim, and home to a large Bedouin population. Although it is sparsely populated, it has a great deal to see.
The centrepiece is Makhtesh Ramon, a crater-shaped landform about 40 kilometres long, 9 kilometres wide and up to 500 metres deep. It is not a meteor crater, but a 'makhtesh', an erosion cirque unique to the Negev and Sinai, formed as water and wind wore away layers of rock. Its walls show bands of red, yellow, black and white sandstone. The small town of Mitzpe Ramon perches on the northern rim.
The Negev also holds the remains of a string of Nabataean and Byzantine towns along the Incense Route, which carried frankincense and myrrh from Arabia to the Mediterranean. Four of them — Haluza, Mamshit, Avdat and Shivta — are listed by UNESCO, with their fortresses and farmland, as the Incense Route and Desert Cities in the Negev. Together with Ein Avdat's canyon and the night skies, they make the Negev a rewarding stop for anyone who likes open landscapes.
Why visit
It is the quietest, most open part of Israel, and one of the best places in the Middle East for a desert landscape.
Makhtesh Ramon is a geological marvel, and the viewpoints along the rim are among the best in the country.
The ruins of a hilltop city on the Incense Route, with a Roman-era acropolis, bathhouses and a winepress, part of a UNESCO site.
The Israel National Trail runs through the region, and a network of shorter trails takes you into the crater, canyons and springs.
With little light pollution and clear air, the Negev offers some of the best stargazing in the region, and the crater has been recognised as a dark-sky park.
Tents and guesthouses run by Negev Bedouin families offer tea, food and an insight into desert life.
Main attractions
The main sights are around Mitzpe Ramon and Sde Boker, about 30 minutes apart.
The town sits on the rim, and a path along the edge gives views over the whole crater. The visitor centre has exhibits on the geology and wildlife, and a large amphitheatre-like viewing deck.
Tip Go at dawn or dusk, when the colours are most intense.
A deep canyon with pools, waterfalls and cliffs, in the middle of the desert. A trail runs through it, and Nubian ibex often appear on the cliffs.
Tip The lower trail is easy, and the upper trail is more strenuous. Bring water.
The remains of a Nabataean city on a hilltop, on the Incense Route, later a Byzantine settlement. There are churches, a winepress, a bathhouse and the ruins of a Roman military camp.
Tip Visit in the morning or late afternoon, when it is cooler.
The simple hut where Israel's first prime minister lived after retiring to the Negev, and his grave overlooking the Zin valley. It is a moving and modest site.
Tip Check the opening hours, which are limited.
A short walk to see Nubian ibex, and a small museum on the local wildlife.
Tip Go at dawn or dusk to see animals.
Trails take you down into the crater, past colourful rocks, ancient fossils and the Ammonite Wall. Some are short and easy, and some require a 4x4 or a guide.
Tip Ask at the visitor centre about routes.
Camps around the crater and the surrounding desert offer tea, food and overnight stays in tents, with music and stargazing.
Tip Book in advance, and check what is included.
Things to do
The Negev is best explored on foot and with a night under the stars.
The light on the crater is spectacular at dawn, and the walk along the edge is easy.
Tip Bring a jacket, as it is cold in the early morning.
Walk through the canyon to the pools and waterfalls, and look for ibex on the cliffs.
Tip Spring and autumn are the best times.
Evening tours and observatory visits help you find planets, stars and the Milky Way in the clear desert sky.
Tip Go around the new moon for the darkest skies.
Guided 4x4 tours travel along the crater floor and to sites not reachable on foot.
Tip Book through a reputable local operator.
A Bedouin family or camp can host you for tea, a meal and an evening of music.
Tip Ask your accommodation for recommendations.
Cycling and camel rides on desert trails are offered around Mitzpe Ramon.
Tip Go early or late in the day.
Local food
The Negev's food scene is small but interesting, with desert restaurants that mix Bedouin and modern Israeli traditions.
Flat bread baked on a hot dome or in embers, served with sweet sage tea.
Where to try it Bedouin camps and tents.
The Negev has small dairies that produce cheeses, sold in local shops.
Where to try it Farms and shops around Mitzpe Ramon and Sde Boker.
Mitzpe Ramon has restaurants serving modern Israeli cooking, with local ingredients and a good wine list.
Where to try it Restaurants on the main street of Mitzpe Ramon.
Vineyards in the Negev Highlands produce wines from grapes grown in the desert.
Where to try it Wineries near Sde Boker and Mitzpe Ramon.
Classic Israeli food, available in the main streets.
Where to try it Stalls in Mitzpe Ramon.
Desert farms grow dates, figs and pomegranates, sold in local shops.
Where to try it Farm shops and roadside stalls.
Accommodation
Mitzpe Ramon is the best base, with guesthouses, hotels and hostels along the rim. Desert camps offer an alternative.
Transport
Mitzpe Ramon is about 150 km south of Beersheba and 2 hours by road from Tel Aviv. A car is the best way to see the Negev.
The sites are spread out, and a car is the easiest way to move.
When to go
The Negev is a desert with hot summers and cool winters. The best months are October to April, when the days are warm and the nights cool, and spring brings wildflowers after rain.
Warm days and wildflowers after winter rain. The best season for hiking.
Very hot, often over 38°C, with limited shade. Only visit for early morning and stargazing.
October and November are warm and clear.
Cool days and cold nights, sometimes near freezing. Rain can cause flash floods, and trails may close.
Worth planning around: Midday in summer, and rainy days when flash floods are dangerous in canyons and wadis.
Itinerary
The crater and stargazing on the first day, and Ein Avdat, Avdat and Sde Boker on the second. Assumes a car and a night at Mitzpe Ramon.
The main sight, then the sky.
Ein Avdat, the Incense Route and Ben-Gurion's home.
Travel tips
The desert is beautiful and easy to underestimate.
FAQ
The largest erosion crater in the world, about 40 km long, 9 km wide and up to 500 m deep. It is not a meteor crater but was formed by erosion, and it is unique to the Negev and Sinai.
Two days is enough for Mitzpe Ramon, Ein Avdat and Avdat. Add a day for a jeep tour, a night at a desert camp or a visit to Timna Park near Eilat.
October to April for comfortable temperatures. Spring has wildflowers, and winter can be cold at night. Summer is very hot.
Most of the Negev's tourist sites are generally regarded as safe, but parts of the region are close to the Gaza Strip and the Egyptian border, and conditions can change. Check your government's advice and follow local guidance.
Yes. It is one of the best places in Israel for stargazing, with clear air and little light pollution. Several operators offer guided night tours.
Yes, but it is a long day. Staying overnight lets you see the crater at dawn and go stargazing.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Negev and Mitzpe Ramon, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
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