Northern District, Upper Galilee · Israel
A hilltop town of blue-doored synagogues and artists' galleries, and for five centuries the centre of Kabbalah, the tradition of Jewish mysticism.
Photo: Herman1975 · CC BY-SA 3.0
Safed is one of the four holy cities of Judaism, along with Jerusalem, Hebron and Tiberias, and at about 900 metres it is the highest city in Israel. It sits on a ridge in the Upper Galilee, with views over the surrounding hills and, on a clear day, Mount Hermon and the Sea of Galilee. Its climate is cooler than the coast, and it has long been a summer retreat.
The town's fame comes from the 16th century, when Jews expelled from Spain settled here and it became a centre of Kabbalah, the mystical tradition of Judaism. Scholars such as Isaac Luria and Joseph Karo lived and taught in Safed, and Karo compiled the Shulchan Aruch, a major code of Jewish law. Their synagogues, named after them, are still in use.
Today the town is a mix of ultra-Orthodox and Hasidic communities, artists who moved to the old quarter after 1948, and visitors. Its atmosphere is relaxed in the day and very quiet on Shabbat. It is small, it takes only a few hours to see, and it is a good place for a day trip from the Sea of Galilee.
Why visit
Safed is worth visiting for its setting and its atmosphere, and even more if you are interested in Jewish history and thought.
For centuries, scholars from around the world came here to study Jewish mysticism, and their synagogues and study houses still stand.
Narrow stone lanes, blue-painted doors and shutters, courtyards and arched passages make the old city one of the most photogenic in Israel.
Painters, sculptors and jewellers have galleries and workshops in the old Arab quarter, and it is a good place to buy something original.
At 900 m, Safed is cooler than the coast and the Jordan Valley, with views over the Galilee that are especially good in the evening.
The lake is about 30 minutes away, so Safed makes an easy add-on to a Galilee trip.
Main attractions
Safed's sights are within a few minutes' walk of each other, and the town can be seen in a morning or afternoon.
A network of lanes and stairs lined with synagogues, study houses and houses painted in shades of blue, a colour that is traditionally used to ward off the evil eye. It is a quiet and photogenic area.
Tip Go in the morning, and dress modestly.
A synagogue named after Rabbi Isaac Luria, known as the Ari, the great 16th-century Kabbalist. It has an ornate Torah ark and a courtyard that overlooks the hills.
Tip Men should cover their heads, and women should dress modestly. Check the opening hours.
A synagogue named after Rabbi Joseph Karo, the author of the Shulchan Aruch. It stands next to his study house and has an atmospheric interior.
Tip It is one of the oldest in the town, and often quiet.
A neighbourhood of galleries and studios in the former Arab quarter, with an Ottoman-era mosque, a Khan and an art museum. The Safed Glass Museum and other small museums are nearby.
Tip Combine it with lunch or coffee.
A hilltop park with the ruins of a Crusader castle and views of the surrounding hills. It is the best place in town for a view.
Tip Go at sunset.
A hillside cemetery with the graves of Kabbalists and scholars, including Isaac Luria and Joseph Karo, painted in blue and white. It is a place of pilgrimage.
Tip Be respectful, and dress modestly.
A village about 10 km away with the tomb of Rabbi Shimon bar Yochai, a great teacher in Jewish tradition, and a place of huge pilgrimages on Lag BaOmer in spring. The mountain and the village are also a nature reserve.
Tip It is very crowded on Lag BaOmer, and access is restricted on that day.
Things to do
Safed is best enjoyed slowly.
Wander the stairs and arches of the Old Jewish Quarter and the artists' area, and stop for coffee.
Tip Go on a weekday morning.
See the Ari, Karo and Abuhav synagogues, each with its own history and design.
Tip Check the opening hours, as they vary, and dress modestly.
Visit studios in the Artists' Quarter, where many painters and craftspeople work, and buy something to take home.
Tip Studios are usually closed on Saturdays.
Several institutes offer introductory lectures and guided tours on Kabbalah and its history.
Tip Book in advance.
The Safed Klezmer Festival, held in summer, brings Jewish folk music to the streets and the old town.
Tip Check dates, and book accommodation early.
Mount Meron, the highest peak in Israel proper, has hiking trails and a nature reserve.
Tip Go in spring or autumn.
Local food
Safed's food is mostly kosher, and it is a good place to try local Galilee ingredients, cheeses and honey.
The Upper Galilee is known for goat and sheep cheeses, produced on small farms and sold in the town.
Where to try it Shops in the old city and farms nearby.
Classic Israeli street food, available in the town centre.
Where to try it Stalls near the main street.
Many restaurants serve a spread of salads with tahini, olives and bread.
Where to try it Cafés in the old city.
Wineries in the hills around Safed produce good wines, some of which are kosher.
Where to try it Restaurants and wine shops in the town.
Honey, halva and dried fruit are sold in shops and markets.
Where to try it The main street and the old city.
Challah, fish and cholent are served at Shabbat meals, and some guesthouses open their tables to visitors.
Where to try it Guesthouses and synagogues that offer Shabbat hospitality.
Accommodation
Most visitors go as a day trip, but a night in Safed is quiet and atmospheric. Guesthouses are simple, and many are run by religious families.
Transport
Safed is about 2.5 hours from Tel Aviv, and easiest by car or bus.
The old city is pedestrian and hilly.
When to go
Safed's altitude makes it cooler than most of Israel, and summer is a popular season. Winters are cold and can bring snow.
Warm and green, with flowers on the hills. The best time for walking.
Warm and comfortable, often 25–30°C, and a popular getaway from the heat of the coast. It is busy with domestic tourists.
Clear and mild, with fewer visitors. The High Holidays affect opening hours.
Cold and often rainy or misty, sometimes with snow. Many guesthouses close.
Worth planning around: Shabbat, when almost everything is closed, and holiday weeks such as Lag BaOmer, when Meron is extremely crowded.
Itinerary
The old quarter and synagogues in the morning, the artists' quarter and lunch, and sunset at the citadel.
A slow day in a hill town.
Travel tips
Safed is small and traditional, and a few tips help.
FAQ
It is one of Judaism's four holy cities and a centre of Kabbalah since the 16th century. It is also known for its artists' quarter, its cool climate and its picturesque old town.
Half a day to a day. It is small, and you can see the main synagogues and the artists' quarter in a few hours.
A mystical tradition within Judaism that seeks to understand the nature of God and the universe. The best-known Kabbalists lived in Safed in the 16th century.
Most shops and restaurants close from Friday afternoon to Saturday evening. It is a beautiful time to visit if you want to experience a Shabbat in a religious town, but plan food and transport ahead.
It is generally regarded as safe, but it lies close to Israel's northern border, and the region has been affected by conflict. Check your government's advice.
Yes, for its atmosphere, views and history, and particularly if you are interested in Jewish religion and culture. It combines well with the Sea of Galilee.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Safed, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
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Israel's largest freshwater lake, with Capernaum, Tabgha and the Mount of Beatitudes on its north shore, hot springs and Tiberias to the west, and swimming and boats all year.
Don't miss Capernaum, where the ruins of a 4th-century synagogue stand beside the traditional house of Peter on the water's edge.
Explore Destination — The Sea of GalileeNorthern District, Lower Galilee, Israel
A lively Arab town with major Christian pilgrimage sites, an old-city market and some of the best food in the north.
Don't miss The Basilica of the Annunciation, the largest church in the Middle East, built over the traditional site of Mary's home.
Explore Destination — NazarethNorthern District, western Galilee coast, Israel
One of the oldest continuously inhabited ports in the world, with Crusader halls, an Ottoman citadel, a working harbour and a lively Arab market.
Don't miss The Knights' Halls, a vaulted Crusader complex where the Order of St John's hospital stood, entered from a street of Ottoman shops.
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