Tel Aviv District, Mediterranean coast · Israel
A young Mediterranean city of Bauhaus buildings, beaches and late-night cafés, next to one of the world's oldest working ports.
Photo: israeltourism from Israel · CC BY-SA 2.0
Tel Aviv was founded in 1909 as a garden suburb of the ancient port of Jaffa, and it has grown into Israel's largest metropolitan area and its economic and cultural centre. Jaffa, by contrast, is one of the oldest ports in the world, with a history that goes back at least four thousand years. The two were merged into a single municipality in 1950, and they still feel like different places.
Tel Aviv's centrepiece is the White City, a large collection of Bauhaus and International Style buildings put up in the 1930s by Jewish architects who had trained in Europe. It was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2003. Between the buildings, there are boulevards, cafés and a long seafront with beaches, a promenade and an easy, sunlit mood.
Jaffa is more mixed, with a large Arab population, a stone-built old town, artists' galleries and a busy flea market. Tel Aviv is secular, liberal and fast-moving, and it is the easiest introduction to modern Israel. It is also a city that has been touched by the conflict of the last few years, and visitors should follow the current advice and local instructions.
Why visit
Tel Aviv is the country's relaxed counterpart to Jerusalem, and one of the best-value city breaks in the region for anyone who likes beaches and food.
A continuous 14 km of beach and promenade runs the length of the city, and people swim, run, cycle and play matkot (paddle ball) all year.
More than 4,000 modernist buildings, mostly from the 1930s, give the centre a coherent, walkable character unlike any other city in the region.
Markets, hummus counters, seafood, fusion restaurants and wine bars have made Tel Aviv a serious culinary city.
Old Jaffa's stone lanes, its port and its hilltop churches and mosques are a short walk south, and they are where Jonah, in the Bible, is said to have set sail.
Jerusalem, Caesarea and Haifa are all within an hour or so, and Ben Gurion airport is 25 minutes away.
Main attractions
The city is best explored on foot and by bicycle, from the north to Jaffa. Give yourself a day for the architecture and markets and another for Jaffa and the beach.
The heart of Tel Aviv's Bauhaus architecture, with tree-lined Rothschild Boulevard, Dizengoff Square and the streets around Bialik. The Bauhaus Center runs guided walks.
Tip Many buildings are shabby, and some are beautifully restored. Look up at the balconies.
A hilltop old town of restored Ottoman stone houses, galleries, the Clock Tower, St Peter's Church and the Al-Bahr and Great mosques. The port at the foot has fishing boats and restaurants.
Tip Go for sunset, and walk back to Tel Aviv along the promenade.
Tel Aviv's main market, a noisy street of stalls selling fruit, vegetables, spices, fish, clothes and street food. Nearby Nachalat Binyamin has a craft market on Tuesdays and Fridays.
Tip Go in the morning, and try the fresh juice. It is quieter on Fridays afternoon.
A network of lanes around the Clock Tower with antiques, furniture, jewellery, cafés and small restaurants. It is lively in the evening.
Tip Haggle politely. It is at its best on weekend evenings.
Gordon, Frishman, Banana and Hilton beaches are the main city beaches, and the promenade links them all to Jaffa. Lifeguards are on duty in season, and there is a dedicated dog beach and quieter stretches.
Tip Pay attention to the flag system. Currents can be strong.
The art museum has an excellent collection of Israeli and international art in a striking modern building. The Museum of the Jewish People (Anu) at Tel Aviv University tells the story of Jewish communities worldwide.
Tip Check opening hours, which vary by day and by Shabbat.
The city's oldest Jewish neighbourhood, with pastel low-rise houses, designer shops, small galleries and cafés. The Suzanne Dellal Centre for dance is here.
Tip Combine it with the walk from the Carmel Market to Jaffa.
Things to do
Tel Aviv is a city for slow days and long evenings. These are the ways that visitors most enjoy it.
A 5 km stroll from Gordon Beach to the old port, past cafés, surfers and volleyball courts. The best time is late afternoon.
Tip Hire a bike or e-scooter if you would rather ride.
A guided tour of the White City explains the history and details of the buildings, and helps you see what to look for.
Tip Book in advance through the Bauhaus Center or a local guide.
The Carmel Market and the Levinsky Market are ideal for street food, from falafel and sabich to burekas and fresh juice. Food tours are popular.
Tip Arrive hungry, and go on a weekday.
Rent a sunbed, swim in the Mediterranean and eat fresh fish at a beach restaurant. The season runs from about April to November.
Tip Avoid the middle of a Saturday in summer, when the beaches are packed.
Wander the Old City's alleys, visit the artists' studios, and stop for coffee and knafeh. The port has good seafood restaurants.
Tip Come at sunset, and stay for dinner.
Tel Aviv has a well-known nightlife, from bars in Florentin and along Rothschild Boulevard to clubs by the port. It is one of the most liberal cities in the region.
Tip Nightlife in Jaffa is quieter and more mixed. Take a taxi at night.
Jerusalem is an hour away by train, Caesarea about 45 minutes north, and Haifa an hour. All are easy to reach by public transport.
Tip On Shabbat, trains do not run.
Local food
Tel Aviv's food is the most varied in Israel, drawing on Middle Eastern, North African, Eastern European and Mediterranean traditions, and many restaurants combine them. There is a large and creative vegetarian and vegan scene.
Warm, silky hummus, served in a bowl with olive oil, chickpeas and warm pita. Locals argue endlessly over the best in the city.
Where to try it Hummusiyot in Jaffa and around the Carmel Market.
A pita filled with fried aubergine, hard-boiled egg, tahini, salad and amba (pickled mango sauce), an Iraqi-Jewish classic that Tel Aviv has adopted.
Where to try it Stalls near the Carmel Market, and in Givatayim and Ramat Gan.
Poached eggs in a tomato and pepper sauce. It is on every breakfast menu in the city.
Where to try it Cafés in Jaffa, Neve Tzedek and along Dizengoff Street.
Grilled fish, calamari and mezze served at restaurants in Jaffa's port and on the seafront.
Where to try it Restaurants in Jaffa's port.
Flaky pastries filled with cheese, potato or spinach, and Yemeni jachnun and malawach, slow-baked breads served with tomato, egg and zhoug.
Where to try it Bakeries in the Carmel Market and the Yemenite Quarter.
Israeli wines and a large craft-beer scene, served in bars and wine bars across the city.
Where to try it Bars in Florentin, Neve Tzedek and the port.
Accommodation
Tel Aviv is expensive, and hotel prices are among the highest in the country. Where you stay affects your days: choose the beach, the White City or Jaffa.
Transport
Tel Aviv is Israel's main gateway. Ben Gurion airport is about 20 km south-east of the city.
Tel Aviv is flat and compact, and easy to explore on foot, by bike and by public transport.
When to go
Tel Aviv has a Mediterranean climate with hot, humid summers and mild winters. It is a year-round destination, and the beach season runs from April to November.
Warm, sunny days of 22–28°C, and the beaches begin to fill. An excellent time to walk the city.
Hot and humid, often 30–34°C with high humidity. Good for the beach, but hard work for sightseeing.
The sea is at its warmest, and the crowds are smaller. The High Holidays can disrupt travel.
Mild and sometimes wet, with days of about 15–19°C. Restaurants and museums are busy, and prices are lower.
Worth planning around: Yom Kippur, when the city stops entirely, and midday in July and August.
Itinerary
The White City and the market, Old Jaffa and the beach, and a day trip or a slow final day. Assumes a base in the centre.
Architecture, markets and cafés.
Old stone, the port and the sunset.
A slower final day.
Travel tips
Tel Aviv is easy, and a few tips help it go more smoothly.
FAQ
Two or three days is enough for the White City, Jaffa, the markets and the beach. It also makes a good base for day trips to Jerusalem, Caesarea and Haifa.
Day-to-day crime is low, and the city is lively and welcoming, but there have been rocket alerts and security incidents in recent years. Check your government's current advice, download the Home Front Command app, and know where the nearest shelter is.
A UNESCO World Heritage Site made up of about 4,000 modernist buildings, in the Bauhaus and International Style, built in the 1930s and 1940s. Together they form the largest collection of such buildings in the world.
Yes. Tel Aviv is secular, liberal and beachside, while Jerusalem is historic and religious. Dress codes, Shabbat observance and the pace of life differ, and most visitors enjoy both.
From May to October, when the sea is warm and the lifeguards are on duty. September and October are warm and less crowded than the summer.
Public transport stops, and some shops and restaurants close, but cafés, beaches, and many restaurants stay open. Jaffa's Arab-run restaurants are also open. It is a relaxed day and a good time to visit the beach.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Tel Aviv, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
Jerusalem District, Israel
One of the oldest cities in the world and a centre of pilgrimage for Jews, Christians and Muslims, with a dense Old City, a lively market and a fine museum.
Don't miss The Old City, where the Western Wall, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and the Dome of the Rock can be reached on foot in an hour.
Explore Destination — JerusalemHaifa District, Mount Carmel, Israel
Israel's third-largest city and a model of mixed communities, home to the Baháʼí World Centre, a UNESCO-listed garden and shrine complex, the German Colony and a strong food scene.
Don't miss The Baháʼí Gardens' terraces, and the view from the top of Mount Carmel across the bay to Acre.
Explore Destination — Haifa & the Baháʼí GardensNorthern District, western Galilee coast, Israel
One of the oldest continuously inhabited ports in the world, with Crusader halls, an Ottoman citadel, a working harbour and a lively Arab market.
Don't miss The Knights' Halls, a vaulted Crusader complex where the Order of St John's hospital stood, entered from a street of Ottoman shops.
Explore Destination — Acre (Akko) Old CityRead next
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