South Korea · Travel guide
How the country divides, how to choose between the ten destinations, how to use its trains and apps, and what two weeks can realistically hold.
Photo: Basile Morin · CC BY-SA 4.0
South Korea packs palaces, mountain temples, beaches, a volcanic island and one of Asia's best food cultures into a country you can cross by train in a few hours. This guide covers how the regions divide, how to choose between the ten destinations, how to travel, when to go, what it costs and three routes that work.
South Korea is about 500 km from north to south, and for a visitor it falls into five zones.
Seoul and the north-west. Seoul is the hub, with Suwon's fortress an easy day trip and the DMZ just to the north.
The east coast. Seoraksan has the peaks and Gangneung has beaches, coffee and tea, both a train or bus ride from Seoul.
The south-east. Gyeongju, the ancient Silla capital, and Busan, the second city on the coast, are linked by short rail trips, with Andong and Hahoe Village inland.
The south-west. Jeonju is the centre for traditional houses and food.
Jeju. Jeju Island is a volcanic island an hour by air from Seoul and Busan.
Worth knowing: The practical unit is a line, Seoul to Busan by KTX with stops at Jeonju or Gyeongju, plus a flight to Jeju. The country is small enough to stitch these together in two weeks.
Gyeongju for Silla tombs and temples, Hahoe Village for Joseon-era life and Suwon for its fortress.
Busan's Haeundae, Gangneung's pine-lined shores and Jeju's white-sand coves.
South Korea has one of the best transport systems in the world, cheap and punctual, and its apps do most of the work.
KTX and SRT trains. Seoul to Busan takes about two and a half hours. Trains also serve Gyeongju, Jeonju, Gangneung and other cities. Book seats on Korail and consider a KR Pass.
Express buses. Cover places without trains, including Andong and Sokcho, for a fraction of the price of flying.
Flights. Jeju is best reached by air from Seoul (Gimpo) or Busan, with many low-cost carriers.
City metros. A T-money card works on subways, buses and many taxis. Use Naver Map or Kakao Map rather than Google Maps for directions.
Worth knowing: Rental cars need an international driving permit, and are worth it only on Jeju and around the east coast.
South Korea has four clear seasons, and the shoulder seasons are the best.
March to May is spring, with cherry blossom in early April, mild days and green mountains. Air quality can dip on some days.
June to August is summer, hot and humid, with a rainy season from late June to July and possible typhoons. Beaches are busy, and hiking is best early in the day.
September to November is autumn, the finest season, with clear skies and colour, peaking in Seoraksan in mid to late October.
December to February is winter, cold and dry, with ski resorts near Gangneung and quieter, cheaper city sightseeing.
Worth knowing: Avoid the Lunar New Year and Chuseok holiday weeks if you can. Trains and flights are packed, and many shops close.
South Korea is reasonable value, cheaper than Japan and most of Western Europe. A restaurant meal costs US$7–15, a comfortable hotel US$80–150, and a KTX ticket from Seoul to Busan around US$40–60.
Cards are accepted almost everywhere, though some foreign cards fail at ATMs. Tipping is not expected.
Mobile coverage is excellent. Buy an eSIM or rent a pocket Wi-Fi, and download Naver Map, Kakao Map and Papago before you land.
Check entry rules, including K-ETA registration, before you fly, since they have changed several times in recent years.
The same route, then a flight from Busan to Jeju for three nights, and back to Seoul.
Tip Rent a car on Jeju.
Reference
Every place named above has its own detailed guide — attractions, food, where to stay, how to get around and a suggested day-by-day plan.
Seoul Capital Area, north-west South Korea
South Korea's capital, with Joseon palaces, Bukchon Hanok Village, temples, markets, K-culture districts, night views from N Seoul Tower and some of the best food in Asia.
Don't miss Gyeongbokgung Palace at opening time, with the mountains behind and a hanbok-dressed crowd walking through its gates.
Explore Destination — SeoulBusan, south-east coast
South Korea's second city, with Gamcheon Culture Village, Haeundae Beach, Jagalchi Fish Market, the seaside temple of Haedong Yonggungsa and a strong seafood and street food scene.
Don't miss The pastel houses of Gamcheon Culture Village stacked up a hillside above the harbour.
Explore Destination — BusanNorth Gyeongsang, south-east South Korea
The ancient Silla capital, with the UNESCO-listed Bulguksa temple and Seokguram Grotto, giant royal burial mounds, Cheomseongdae observatory and the night-lit Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond.
Don't miss Bulguksa temple's stone stairways and wooden halls in the soft light of early morning.
Explore Destination — GyeongjuJeju, island south of the peninsula
South Korea's volcanic island, with Hallasan mountain, the Seongsan Ilchulbong tuff cone, Manjanggul Lava Tube, beaches like Hyeopjae, tangerine farms and the female divers of the haenyeo.
Don't miss Sunrise from the crater rim of Seongsan Ilchulbong, with the sea turning gold below.
Explore Destination — Jeju IslandNorth Jeolla, south-west South Korea
A UNESCO City of Gastronomy with a large hanok village, Gyeonggijeon Shrine, Nambu Market and Korea's best bibimbap, makgeolli and banquet-style side dishes.
Don't miss A bibimbap lunch in Jeonju Hanok Village, followed by a walk through tile-roofed lanes.
Explore Destination — JeonjuGangwon, north-east coast
South Korea's most beautiful mountain park, with the Ulsanbawi rock, Biryong Falls, the cable car to Gwongeumseong and hiking to Daecheongbong, plus the port town of Sokcho and its seafood market.
Don't miss A cable car to Gwongeumseong fortress, with the granite spires of Seoraksan spread out below in October.
Explore Destination — Seoraksan and SokchoGyeonggi, south of Seoul
A UNESCO-listed fortress of about 5.7 km of walls, gates and turrets, with Haenggung Palace, archery, a traditional market and a famous fried chicken street, an easy day trip from Seoul.
Don't miss Walking the fortress wall at sunset, with the gates and the city glowing below.
Explore Destination — Suwon and Hwaseong FortressNorth Gyeongsang, inland east
A UNESCO-listed clan village on the Nakdong River with thatched and tiled houses, Byeongsan Confucian Academy, the mask dance, Andong soju and jjimdak chicken.
Don't miss Watching the Hahoe mask dance beside old thatched houses, with the river curving around the village.
Explore Destination — Andong and Hahoe Folk VillageGyeonggi and Gangwon, north of Seoul
The Demilitarized Zone between North and South Korea, with tunnels, the Dora Observatory, Imjingak and, when open, the Joint Security Area at Panmunjom, visited on guided tours from Seoul.
Don't miss Looking across the border from an observatory at a landscape the two Koreas have watched each other across since 1953.
Explore Destination — The DMZ and PanmunjomGangwon, east coast
A relaxed east-coast city with Gyeongpo Beach, Ojukheon (home of the scholar Yulgok), the Anmok coffee street, the Danoje festival and a KTX link from Seoul in under two hours.
Don't miss Sipping a coffee on Anmok Beach while the waves roll in, in Korea's coffee capital.
Explore Destination — GangneungFAQ
Yes. Stations, major attractions and hotels have English signs, and translation apps handle menus. Few taxi drivers and small restaurants speak English, so carry your destination written in Korean.
Take trains and buses. They are fast, cheap and reach nearly everywhere. A car is worth it only on Jeju and in the countryside around Andong and Gangneung.
Book KTX seats and DMZ tours a week or more ahead, and Jeju flights and hanok stays a month or more ahead for peak seasons. Cherry blossom weeks, October foliage and holidays such as Chuseok fill up early.
It is one of the easiest. It is safe, clean, well signposted and full of good food, and most sights are reachable by public transport.
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