Jeju, island south of the peninsula · South Korea
A volcanic island of lava tubes, a snow-capped crater, tangerine groves, black-rock coasts and white-sand coves, an hour by air from Seoul.
Photo: Basile Morin · CC BY-SA 4.0
Jeju is a volcanic island about 85 km south of the Korean peninsula, built by eruptions over about two million years. It is dominated by Hallasan, at 1,947 metres the highest mountain in South Korea, and dotted with hundreds of smaller cones called oreum, with a coast of black basalt cliffs, sea caves and pale beaches. The island's volcanic landscape and lava tubes are a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Jeju has its own culture. The island's dialect, stone walls, stone grandfather statues called dol hareubang and its haenyeo, female divers who harvest seafood on a single breath, set it apart from the mainland, and the haenyeo tradition is on UNESCO's intangible heritage list. Food is distinctive too, with black pork, abalone, tangerines and hallabong fruit.
Jeju is a classic short Korean holiday, an hour by air from Seoul and Busan, and the busiest air route in the world. It is best with a car, since sights are spread around the coast. Three days covers Seongsan, the lava tube, Hallasan and a beach, and spring and autumn are the best seasons, though the rapeseed flowers of spring and the winter camellias have their own following.
Why visit
Jeju is Korea's natural showpiece, a scenic island with a culture of its own.
Hallasan, craters, lava tubes and basalt cliffs.
White sand and turquoise water at Hyeopjae.
Haenyeo divers, stone walls and local dialect.
Black pork, abalone and tangerines.
About an hour by air from Seoul.
Main attractions
Sights are spread around the coast and the volcano, so a car is the best way to link them.
A 180-metre tuff cone formed by an undersea eruption, with a grassy crater rim reached by a 20-minute climb. It is famed for sunrise.
Tip Go for sunrise, or late afternoon.
A dormant volcano with a crater lake at its summit, and trails such as Yeongsil, Eorimok and the long Seongpanak and Gwaneumsa routes.
Tip Reserve summit trails online, and start early.
One of the world's longest lava tubes, with a section open to walkers, and tall passages, lava columns and a cool temperature.
Tip Bring a jacket.
A beach on the west coast with pale sand, clear water and views of Biyangdo island.
Tip Go in early summer.
A museum in the north-east about the female free divers and their culture.
Tip Combine with a coastal seafood lunch.
Small volcanic cones that are easy to climb, with sweeping views, such as Saebyeol Oreum and Yongnuni.
Tip Go at sunset.
Things to do
Jeju is for driving, hiking and slow coastal stops.
Hike Korea's highest peak in one long day.
Tip Book the trail slot and start at dawn.
Loop the island road, stopping at beaches and cliffs.
Tip Rent a car for three days.
See divers work at Seongsan or Hado.
Tip Ask at the local museum.
Marked coastal walking routes.
Tip Follow the blue and orange ribbons.
Pick fruit in autumn and winter.
Tip Go in November.
Cheonjiyeon and Jeongbang falls.
Tip Visit after rain.
Local food
Jeju's food is built on black pork, seafood and citrus.
Grilled slabs of Jeju's black pig.
Where to try it Barbecue restaurants in Jeju City.
Rice porridge with abalone.
Where to try it Seaside restaurants.
Citrus fruit grown on the island.
Where to try it Farms and markets.
A silvery fish from local waters.
Where to try it Restaurants in Seogwipo.
A spicy pot of shellfish.
Where to try it Coastal villages.
Green tea from the Osulloc fields.
Where to try it Cafés.
Accommodation
Base yourself in Jeju City or Seogwipo, or by a beach.
Transport
Jeju is reached by air from Seoul, Busan and other cities.
A car is the best way to see the island.
When to go
Jeju is milder than the mainland in winter but windy, and it is rainy in summer.
Rapeseed and cherry blossoms in April.
Beach season, but humid, rainy and busy.
Clear, with silver grass on the oreum.
Cool and windy, with snow on Hallasan and winter camellias.
Worth planning around: Typhoon days in late summer and autumn.
Itinerary
The east on the first day, the mountain on the second, and the west coast on the third.
Cone and cave.
The mountain.
The beach.
Travel tips
A few tips make Jeju easier.
FAQ
Three days is good, and four to five allow a slower pace.
It is the easiest way. Buses and taxis work for a few sights.
April to May and September to October.
Yes, it takes about 8 hours return, and requires a reservation for the summit trails.
Jeju has had a visa-free policy for many nationalities. Check current rules.
A woman free diver who harvests seafood, a tradition on Jeju.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Jeju, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
Busan, south-east coast, South Korea
South Korea's second city, with Gamcheon Culture Village, Haeundae Beach, Jagalchi Fish Market, the seaside temple of Haedong Yonggungsa and a strong seafood and street food scene.
Don't miss The pastel houses of Gamcheon Culture Village stacked up a hillside above the harbour.
Explore Destination — BusanSeoul Capital Area, north-west South Korea, South Korea
South Korea's capital, with Joseon palaces, Bukchon Hanok Village, temples, markets, K-culture districts, night views from N Seoul Tower and some of the best food in Asia.
Don't miss Gyeongbokgung Palace at opening time, with the mountains behind and a hanbok-dressed crowd walking through its gates.
Explore Destination — SeoulNorth Gyeongsang, south-east South Korea, South Korea
The ancient Silla capital, with the UNESCO-listed Bulguksa temple and Seokguram Grotto, giant royal burial mounds, Cheomseongdae observatory and the night-lit Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond.
Don't miss Bulguksa temple's stone stairways and wooden halls in the soft light of early morning.
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