Welcome to the DMZ
The Korean Demilitarized Zone is a strip of land about 250 km long and 4 km wide that cuts across the peninsula near the 38th parallel. It was set up by the armistice agreement of 1953, which halted the fighting of the Korean War without a peace treaty, and it remains a heavily guarded frontier, lined with fences, minefields and guard posts on both sides. Ironically, with few people allowed inside, it has also become a refuge for wildlife, including cranes and other rare birds.
For visitors, the DMZ is a strange, moving and sometimes tense place. Tours from Seoul usually visit Imjingak, a park with memorials and a bridge where prisoners were exchanged, one of the tunnels dug by North Korea under the border, and Dora Observatory, where binoculars look out over the North. Some tours reach the Joint Security Area at Panmunjom, where blue huts straddle the border and soldiers face each other, but access there is controlled and depends on the political situation, and is sometimes suspended.
You cannot visit the DMZ independently. Tours are run by the government-approved operators and the USO, they require a passport, and they have dress codes and rules about photos. Book ahead, follow instructions, and treat it with respect, since it is a place where a war remains unresolved and families are still separated.
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