Busan, south-east coast · South Korea
A port city of beaches, hillside murals, fish markets and seaside temples, where mountains fall into the sea and the food is at its freshest.
Photo: Basile Morin · CC BY-SA 4.0
Busan is South Korea's second-largest city, home to about 3.3 million people, and the country's main port. It is squeezed between mountains and the sea on the south-east coast, and its streets climb steep hills and spill down to beaches, harbours and fish markets. It feels looser and saltier than Seoul, with a distinctive dialect and a reputation for friendliness.
The city is best known for its sights by the water. Gamcheon Culture Village, once a refugee settlement, is now a maze of painted houses, Haeundae is Korea's most famous beach, and Haedong Yonggungsa is a rare temple set on a rocky shore. Jagalchi Fish Market is the country's largest seafood market, where you choose your fish and eat it upstairs, and Busan holds a large film festival every autumn.
Busan is about two and a half hours from Seoul by KTX and is easy to combine with Gyeongju, an hour away. Two or three days are enough for the main sights, and the city is at its best in late spring and early autumn, when the sea is warm enough for the beach and the humidity of summer has eased.
Why visit
Busan is Korea's seaside city, with the best seafood and a more relaxed pace than Seoul.
Gamcheon's painted houses and alleys.
Haeundae, Gwangalli and coastal walking paths.
The Jagalchi market and grilled shellfish.
Haedong Yonggungsa on the rocks.
About two and a half hours by KTX.
Main attractions
Busan's sights are spread out, so plan by area: the old port, the beaches and the coast.
A hillside neighbourhood of pastel houses, murals, art installations and cafés, built by refugees in the 1950s and revived as an arts district.
Tip Go early, and expect steep lanes.
Korea's most famous beach, a long sweep of sand backed by high-rise hotels, with a summer festival scene and a coastal walk.
Tip Visit outside the July and August crowds.
A Buddhist temple founded in the 14th century and built along a rocky coast, with prayer halls, stone lanterns and sea views.
Tip Go at sunrise or on a weekday.
Korea's largest seafood market, with stalls of live fish, squid, crabs and shellfish, and restaurants above where your choice is cooked.
Tip Ask the price first.
A cafe-lined beach with views of a long suspension bridge that lights up at night.
Tip Go at dusk.
A park on a forested cape with cliffs, a lighthouse and walking paths above the sea.
Tip Take the sightseeing train if you are tired.
Things to do
Busan is about the sea, the streets and the food.
Choose your seafood and have it cooked.
Tip Visit at lunch.
The Igidae Coastal Walk and the Haeundae Dongbaek path offer sea views.
Tip Bring water.
A coastal train and sky capsule from Haeundae to Cheongsapo.
Tip Book a seat in advance.
Ssiat hotteok, eomuk fish cakes and tteokbokki at Bupyeong Kkangtong Market.
Tip Go in the evening.
A Korean spa such as Spa Land in Centum City.
Tip Bring a towel, and check the rules.
The Busan International Film Festival in early October.
Tip Book hotels far ahead.
Local food
Busan food is seafood-heavy, spicy and hearty.
A rich pork and rice soup that is the city's signature dish.
Where to try it Local restaurants near Busan Station.
Sliced raw fish served with chilli paste and lettuce.
Where to try it Jagalchi and Millak Raw Fish Town.
Wheat noodles in a cold or hot broth, invented in Busan.
Where to try it Old noodle shops.
A sweet pancake stuffed with seeds and nuts.
Where to try it BIFF Square.
Skewered fish cakes in broth.
Where to try it Markets and stalls.
A seaside barbecue tradition.
Where to try it Restaurants at Gijang and Gwangalli.
Accommodation
Stay by the beach for the resort feel, or near Seomyeon and Busan Station for transport.
Transport
Busan is easily reached by train, air or bus.
The metro covers the centre and Haeundae, with buses and taxis for the rest.
When to go
Busan is milder than Seoul in winter and warmer in the sea, but summer is humid and rainy.
Pleasant, with cherry blossom in late March.
Beach season, but hot, humid, rainy and crowded.
Clear and comfortable, with the film festival.
Cool and dry, with fewer visitors.
Worth planning around: August typhoon days and beach weekends.
Itinerary
The hillside village and market on the first day, and the coast on the second.
Colour and seafood.
Temple and beach.
Travel tips
A few tips help you enjoy Busan.
FAQ
Two days for the highlights, three with a day trip to Gyeongju.
They are different. Busan is more relaxed, with sea and seafood. Most visitors see both.
About two and a half hours by KTX.
Yes in the summer season, usually from July to August, when lifeguards are on duty.
At busy, reputable markets and restaurants, yes.
Yes, in about 30 minutes by KTX.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Busan, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
North Gyeongsang, south-east South Korea, South Korea
The ancient Silla capital, with the UNESCO-listed Bulguksa temple and Seokguram Grotto, giant royal burial mounds, Cheomseongdae observatory and the night-lit Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond.
Don't miss Bulguksa temple's stone stairways and wooden halls in the soft light of early morning.
Explore Destination — GyeongjuSeoul Capital Area, north-west South Korea, South Korea
South Korea's capital, with Joseon palaces, Bukchon Hanok Village, temples, markets, K-culture districts, night views from N Seoul Tower and some of the best food in Asia.
Don't miss Gyeongbokgung Palace at opening time, with the mountains behind and a hanbok-dressed crowd walking through its gates.
Explore Destination — SeoulJeju, island south of the peninsula, South Korea
South Korea's volcanic island, with Hallasan mountain, the Seongsan Ilchulbong tuff cone, Manjanggul Lava Tube, beaches like Hyeopjae, tangerine farms and the female divers of the haenyeo.
Don't miss Sunrise from the crater rim of Seongsan Ilchulbong, with the sea turning gold below.
Explore Destination — Jeju IslandRead next
Where to go
The Mediterranean coasts in this guide are not interchangeable. Some have sand and some have rock; some are glamorous and some are cheap; two of them are effectively closed for half the year. This is a comparison by the things that decide whether a coastal week works — swimming, crowds, cost, transport and what there is to do when you get out of the water.
Food
Eating well abroad is mostly a matter of knowing when meals happen, how the menu is structured and which dish belongs to the place you are standing in. This covers all three for the five countries in this guide, plus the signals that separate a restaurant that feeds locals from one that feeds coaches.
Advertisement
