Seoul Capital Area, north-west South Korea · South Korea
A megacity of royal palaces, hanok lanes, mountain trails, neon nights and street food, where 600 years of history sit beside the future.
Photo: Frank Schulenburg · CC BY-SA 4.0
Seoul is a city of about 9 million people, part of a metropolitan area of more than 25 million, set in a bowl of granite mountains around the Han River. It has been the capital for over 600 years, since the Joseon dynasty made it the seat of the kingdom in 1394, and the old city is ringed by fortress walls and guarded by five royal palaces.
Old and new sit side by side. Within a few subway stops you can pass from the palaces and hanok lanes of Jongno and Bukchon to the shopping streets of Myeongdong, the design landmarks of Dongdaemun, the youth culture of Hongdae, and the towers of Gangnam. Mountains rise inside the city, so a hike to a fortress wall or a temple is a short ride from any hotel, and the Han River parks fill with picnics on summer nights.
Seoul is easy for first-timers. The subway is cheap and clear, the streets are safe at any hour, food is available at all times, and the city moves quickly. Four days covers the palaces, a hanok district and the main neighbourhoods, and it is the natural base for day trips to Suwon, the DMZ and the east coast.
Why visit
Seoul combines history, food and modern energy more densely than almost any other Asian capital.
Five royal palaces from the Joseon dynasty, with guards, gardens and hanbok.
From market stalls and barbecue to temple cuisine and fine dining.
Bukhansan, Namsan and Inwangsan are reached by subway.
Modern architecture, museums, K-pop districts and cafés.
A clean, cheap metro and a very low crime rate.
Main attractions
The main sights cluster around Jongno in the old city, with others across the river or on the mountain.
The largest and grandest of Seoul's palaces, built in 1395, with a throne hall, a pavilion on a lake and a changing-of-the-guard ceremony. It is free to enter in hanbok.
Tip Go at opening time, and check closing days.
A hillside neighbourhood of traditional tile-roofed houses between two palaces, with views to the city. People live here, and access is restricted at some times.
Tip Visit early and keep your voice down.
A UNESCO World Heritage palace that blends into its landscape, with a rear garden of ponds, pavilions and old trees, visited on timed guided tours.
Tip Book the Secret Garden tour online.
A 236-metre tower on Namsan, with panoramic views of the city, reached by cable car or a walk up a wooded hill.
Tip Go at dusk and stay for the lights.
The centre of Korean Zen Buddhism, in the middle of the city, and hung with thousands of lanterns around the Buddha's Birthday in spring.
Tip Visit in the morning, when it is quiet.
A curved, silver building by Zaha Hadid that hosts exhibitions and events, surrounded by fashion markets that stay open late.
Tip Visit at night for the lights.
A restored stream running through the centre, replacing a former elevated highway, with a walking path and bridges.
Tip Walk it in the evening.
Things to do
Seoul rewards a mix of history, food and neighbourhood wandering.
Rent traditional dress near Gyeongbokgung and enter the palaces free.
Tip Book a slot in advance for peak times.
Bindaetteok pancakes, mayak gimbap and raw beef tartare at a century-old market.
Tip Go hungry, and bring cash.
Trails along the old fortress wall with views over the palaces.
Tip Bring your passport, since some sections are security-controlled.
Buskers, clubs, cafés and shops around the university district.
Tip Go on a Friday or Saturday night.
Order chicken and beer to your spot on the riverbank.
Tip Visit Banpo Bridge's fountain show in summer.
Local food
Seoul's food is the best sampler of Korea, from cheap street snacks to long barbecue nights.
Pork belly and marinated beef grilled at the table with banchan side dishes.
Where to try it Restaurants in Mapo, Jongno and Gangnam.
Rice cakes in chilli sauce, fried snacks and fish cakes.
Where to try it Myeongdong and Gwangjang Market.
A whole young chicken stuffed with rice and ginseng in a hot broth.
Where to try it Restaurants near Gyeongbokgung.
Cold noodles and dumplings.
Where to try it Old restaurants in Jung-gu.
Vegetarian cooking from Buddhist traditions.
Where to try it Restaurants in Insadong.
Bingsu shaved ice and coffee culture.
Where to try it Ikseon-dong and Seongsu-dong.
Accommodation
Choose by the type of trip: old city for sights, Hongdae for nightlife, Gangnam for business.
Transport
Most visitors arrive at Incheon Airport, about 50 km west of the city.
The subway covers nearly everything, with buses filling the gaps.
When to go
Seoul has hot, humid summers and cold, dry winters, with pleasant springs and autumns.
Cherry blossom in early April and mild days.
Hot, humid and rainy.
Clear skies and colourful leaves.
Cold and dry, with fewer crowds.
Worth planning around: The July rainy season and the major holidays.
Itinerary
Palaces and hanok, the city's markets and hills, and a day trip.
The old city.
Changdeokgung and the tower.
The DMZ or Suwon.
Modern Seoul.
Travel tips
A few tips make Seoul smoother.
FAQ
Three to four days cover the main sights, and a week allows day trips.
Yes, it is one of the safest big cities in the world.
April to May and September to October.
Yes if you wear a hanbok, and there are free days for other visitors, such as the last Wednesday of the month.
No. English signs are common and translation apps help.
Incheon for most international flights. Gimpo handles domestic flights and some flights from Japan and China.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Seoul, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
Gyeonggi, south of Seoul, South Korea
A UNESCO-listed fortress of about 5.7 km of walls, gates and turrets, with Haenggung Palace, archery, a traditional market and a famous fried chicken street, an easy day trip from Seoul.
Don't miss Walking the fortress wall at sunset, with the gates and the city glowing below.
Explore Destination — Suwon and Hwaseong FortressGyeonggi and Gangwon, north of Seoul, South Korea
The Demilitarized Zone between North and South Korea, with tunnels, the Dora Observatory, Imjingak and, when open, the Joint Security Area at Panmunjom, visited on guided tours from Seoul.
Don't miss Looking across the border from an observatory at a landscape the two Koreas have watched each other across since 1953.
Explore Destination — The DMZ and PanmunjomBusan, south-east coast, South Korea
South Korea's second city, with Gamcheon Culture Village, Haeundae Beach, Jagalchi Fish Market, the seaside temple of Haedong Yonggungsa and a strong seafood and street food scene.
Don't miss The pastel houses of Gamcheon Culture Village stacked up a hillside above the harbour.
Explore Destination — BusanGangwon, east coast, South Korea
A relaxed east-coast city with Gyeongpo Beach, Ojukheon (home of the scholar Yulgok), the Anmok coffee street, the Danoje festival and a KTX link from Seoul in under two hours.
Don't miss Sipping a coffee on Anmok Beach while the waves roll in, in Korea's coffee capital.
Explore Destination — GangneungRead next
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