North Gyeongsang, inland east · South Korea
A river-bend village of thatched roofs and scholar houses lived in for 600 years, with mask dances, Confucian academies and salted mackerel.
Photo: Bernard Gagnon · CC0
Andong is a small city in the hills of North Gyeongsang, and one of the strongest keepers of Korea's Confucian traditions. It has long been a centre of scholarship and clan life, and its families still practise ancestral rites. Around the city are academies, pavilions and villages that show how the yangban aristocracy of the Joseon dynasty lived.
Hahoe Folk Village is the star. Its name means 'river-bend', and the Nakdong River wraps around the settlement in an S-shaped curve. Members of the Pungsan Ryu clan have lived here for about 600 years, and the village still has real residents, with thatched-roof houses for commoners and grand tile-roofed homes for the aristocracy. Together with Yangdong in Gyeongju, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The famous Hahoe mask dance, a satirical folk drama of masks made from alder wood, is performed on many days.
Nearby are Byeongsan Seowon, a Confucian academy with a beautiful hillside setting, and Andong Dam and its walking paths. Andong's food is distinct too, with jjimdak (braised chicken), salted mackerel and its own strong soju. It is about two hours from Seoul by train and works as a peaceful stop between the capital and the south-east.
Why visit
Hahoe and Andong are the best place to feel traditional Korean rural life.
Residents still live in the thatched houses.
A satirical folk theatre tradition.
Academies and pavilions.
Jjimdak and Andong soju.
River, pines and cliffs.
Main attractions
Hahoe is the main draw, with more places nearby.
A clan village of about 600 years, with earthen walls, thatched houses, big tile-roofed mansions and a great pine forest along the river.
Tip Stay overnight in a hanok.
A traditional play with wooden masks that pokes fun at aristocrats and monks, performed in the village.
Tip Check the performance times.
A cliff across the river that gives a view of the village's shape.
Tip Take the ferry across.
A 16th-century Confucian academy overlooking the river, also a UNESCO site.
Tip Visit in the afternoon.
A wooden footbridge across the Nakdong River in Andong.
Tip Walk at night.
A museum of masks from Korea and the world.
Tip Near the village.
Things to do
Andong is for slow days.
Sleep in a traditional house.
Tip Book far ahead.
A folk performance.
Tip Weekends.
Follow the pines.
Tip Go at dusk.
Andong's braised chicken.
Tip Try it on Jjimdak Street.
A festival in autumn.
Tip Book early.
A traditional distilled soju.
Tip Visit the museum.
Local food
Andong is known for hearty, salty and spicy dishes.
Chicken braised in soy sauce with noodles, potatoes and chilli.
Where to try it Jjimdak Alley.
Mackerel cured in salt and grilled.
Where to try it Restaurants in the city.
Rice mixed with vegetables, once a ritual dish.
Where to try it Traditional restaurants.
A strong distilled spirit.
Where to try it Museum and shops.
Savoury pancakes.
Where to try it Village restaurants.
Accommodation
Stay in Hahoe for atmosphere, or Andong for convenience.
Transport
Andong is reached by train or bus.
Buses are infrequent, so plan around them.
When to go
Andong has hot summers and cold winters.
Flowers and mild weather.
Hot and humid.
Golden leaves and the mask festival.
Cold and quiet.
Worth planning around: The hottest days.
Itinerary
The village, a dance and dinner.
A village day.
Travel tips
A few tips help you visit Andong.
FAQ
One or two days.
Yes.
Train or bus to Andong, then a local bus.
Yes, listed in 2010.
Usually late September or early October.
Yes, by bus or train.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Andong, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
North Gyeongsang, south-east South Korea, South Korea
The ancient Silla capital, with the UNESCO-listed Bulguksa temple and Seokguram Grotto, giant royal burial mounds, Cheomseongdae observatory and the night-lit Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond.
Don't miss Bulguksa temple's stone stairways and wooden halls in the soft light of early morning.
Explore Destination — GyeongjuSeoul Capital Area, north-west South Korea, South Korea
South Korea's capital, with Joseon palaces, Bukchon Hanok Village, temples, markets, K-culture districts, night views from N Seoul Tower and some of the best food in Asia.
Don't miss Gyeongbokgung Palace at opening time, with the mountains behind and a hanbok-dressed crowd walking through its gates.
Explore Destination — SeoulNorth Jeolla, south-west South Korea, South Korea
A UNESCO City of Gastronomy with a large hanok village, Gyeonggijeon Shrine, Nambu Market and Korea's best bibimbap, makgeolli and banquet-style side dishes.
Don't miss A bibimbap lunch in Jeonju Hanok Village, followed by a walk through tile-roofed lanes.
Explore Destination — JeonjuRead next
Heritage
A UNESCO listing tells you a place matters; it does not tell you whether it is worth two days and a detour. This is how to read the list usefully — and which sites reward building a trip around them.
Where to go
The most visited place in a country is rarely its best, and it is almost never its best value. This is a method for finding the destinations that do not make the postcards — and a set of examples from five of the 50 countries on this site.
Advertisement
