North Jeolla, south-west South Korea · South Korea
Korea's food capital and a city of 700 traditional hanok houses, where bibimbap, makgeolli and calligraphy have deep roots.
Photo: Mobius6 · CC BY-SA 4.0
Jeonju is a city of about 650,000 in the fertile south-west, and it is widely regarded as the culinary heart of South Korea. UNESCO named it a Creative City of Gastronomy in 2012, and locals will tell you that a meal in Jeonju includes far more side dishes than anywhere else. It is the home of bibimbap, the rice bowl mixed with vegetables and chilli paste, and of a regional banquet tradition in which a table fills with small dishes as soon as you order drinks.
The old heart of the city is Jeonju Hanok Village, a district of about 700 traditional houses with curved tile roofs, alleys and courtyard cafés. It grew around the Gyeonggijeon Shrine, which holds a portrait of the founder of the Joseon dynasty, who was born in Jeonju's family line, and the area is the country's best place to try on hanbok and stroll through real streets rather than a museum set.
Jeonju is compact and easy: a day or two lets you eat, walk the village, browse the Nambu Market and taste the local makgeolli. It is about two hours from Seoul by KTX, and it fits between Seoul and the south-east, making it a natural stop on a longer trip.
Why visit
Jeonju offers food and tradition in one compact, walkable place.
The most famous bowl in Korea.
About 700 traditional houses.
Banquets, market food and makgeolli.
Paper, calligraphy and rice wine.
Two hours from Seoul by KTX.
Main attractions
Everything worth seeing is within a short walk of the hanok village.
A district of about 700 hanok with cafés, workshops, guesthouses and hanbok rentals, and the main street for snacks.
Tip Stay overnight, when the crowds go.
A shrine that houses a portrait of King Taejo, the founder of the Joseon dynasty, in a quiet compound.
Tip Visit in the morning.
A Romanesque-Byzantine church from the early 1900s, in red brick, beside the hanok village.
Tip Visit before it closes.
A traditional market with food stalls and a night market on weekends.
Tip Go in the evening.
A pavilion on a hill with views across the hanok village's rooftops.
Tip Go at sunset.
A museum where you can learn about and taste traditional wines.
Tip Book a tasting.
Things to do
Jeonju is about eating and strolling.
Try the classic bowl with raw beef and bean sprouts.
Tip Go at lunch.
Rent traditional dress and stroll the village.
Tip Rentals are cheap.
Visit a makgeolli alley for a kettle of rice wine with a table of dishes.
Tip Go in the evening.
Sleep on a heated floor in a traditional house.
Tip Book ahead.
Try hanji paper workshops.
Tip Book a class.
Choco pies, grilled skewers and egg bread.
Tip Bring cash.
Local food
Jeonju's food is a national point of pride, and a meal is generous.
Rice cooked in beef broth with about two dozen toppings, including bean sprouts and raw beef, mixed with chilli paste.
Where to try it Traditional restaurants in the village.
Bean sprout soup with rice, a cheap breakfast and hangover cure.
Where to try it Local restaurants.
A kettle of rice wine that comes with a table of dishes.
Where to try it Samcheon-dong Makgeolli Street.
A banquet table of many dishes.
Where to try it Restaurants in the village.
Sweet and savoury treats.
Where to try it Hanok village street.
Accommodation
Stay in the hanok village for atmosphere.
Transport
Jeonju is reached by KTX or bus from Seoul.
The hanok village is walkable.
When to go
Jeonju has four seasons, with hot summers and cold winters.
Mild, with cherry blossom.
Hot and humid.
Clear, with gold leaves.
Cold, but quiet.
Worth planning around: August heat.
Itinerary
Eating and strolling the village.
Tradition.
Local life.
Travel tips
A few tips help you make the most of Jeonju.
FAQ
One to two days.
Yes for food and tradition.
KTX in about two hours.
Bibimbap and makgeolli banquets.
Yes, in guesthouses.
April and October.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Jeonju, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
Seoul Capital Area, north-west South Korea, South Korea
South Korea's capital, with Joseon palaces, Bukchon Hanok Village, temples, markets, K-culture districts, night views from N Seoul Tower and some of the best food in Asia.
Don't miss Gyeongbokgung Palace at opening time, with the mountains behind and a hanbok-dressed crowd walking through its gates.
Explore Destination — SeoulNorth Gyeongsang, south-east South Korea, South Korea
The ancient Silla capital, with the UNESCO-listed Bulguksa temple and Seokguram Grotto, giant royal burial mounds, Cheomseongdae observatory and the night-lit Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond.
Don't miss Bulguksa temple's stone stairways and wooden halls in the soft light of early morning.
Explore Destination — GyeongjuBusan, south-east coast, South Korea
South Korea's second city, with Gamcheon Culture Village, Haeundae Beach, Jagalchi Fish Market, the seaside temple of Haedong Yonggungsa and a strong seafood and street food scene.
Don't miss The pastel houses of Gamcheon Culture Village stacked up a hillside above the harbour.
Explore Destination — BusanRead next
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