Bethlehem Governorate, Judean Desert · Palestinian Territories
A Greek Orthodox monastery, occupied continuously since 483 CE, built into the wall of the Kidron Valley in the Judean Desert.
Photo: Godot13 · CC BY-SA 4.0
Mar Saba, called Deir Mar Saba in Arabic and the Great Lavra of Saint Sabbas in Greek, is a Greek Orthodox monastery about 12 km east of Bethlehem, built into the steep wall of the Kidron Valley in the Judean Desert. It was founded in 483 CE by Saint Sabbas, a monk from Cappadocia who lived in a cave here and gathered a community of hermits around him. It has been occupied ever since, making it one of the oldest continuously inhabited monasteries in the world.
The complex, a maze of chapels, terraces, cells and stairways carved into the cliff, was an important centre of Christian scholarship and hymn-writing. Saint John of Damascus, a theologian and poet of the 8th century, lived and is buried here, and monks such as Cosmas of Maiuma wrote hymns that are still sung in Orthodox churches. In 614, Persian invaders killed many of the monks, and their skulls are kept in a chapel.
The monastery has a rule that dates back to its founder: women are not allowed inside. The monastery remains a working community with a small number of monks. Men can visit at certain times, and women can see the monastery from the Women's Tower, a small building across the gorge. It lies in the West Bank in Area C, and access depends on the security situation and the monastery's own rules.
Why visit
Mar Saba is one of the most dramatic religious sites in the region, and it feels far away from modern life.
The blue and white domes, stone terraces and stairs cling to the side of a gorge, with the desert stretching away behind.
Monks have lived here for more than 1,500 years, and the daily rhythm of prayer continues.
The tomb of St Sabbas, the tomb of St John of Damascus and the chapel of skulls give a sense of the site's long history.
The Judean Desert here is bare and beautiful, with terraced hills, wadis and small Bedouin camps.
It is only 30 minutes by car, and combines well with Herodium and the Church of the Nativity.
Main attractions
Access is limited, and what you see depends on your gender and the monastery's opening hours. Check before you go.
Chapels, cells, courtyards and stairways in golden stone, with a church decorated in icons and frescoes, and the tomb of St Sabbas. Male visitors can see the church and parts of the site, usually in a guided visit.
Tip Dress modestly, and do not take photographs inside. Opening hours are limited and change.
A small chapel with the tomb of the 8th-century Syrian theologian and hymn writer, who is revered in the Orthodox and Catholic churches.
Tip It is inside the monastery, so it is open to men only.
A chapel that holds the skulls of monks killed by Persian invaders in 614 CE, kept as relics of the martyrs.
Tip Visitors are usually taken to see it.
A small stone tower on the opposite side of the gorge, where women who could not enter the monastery historically waited and prayed. It offers the best view of the whole complex.
Tip Go at sunset for the best photographs.
A viewing platform on the road above the monastery, with a panoramic view of the gorge, the cliffs and the domes.
Tip It is free and open to all.
A tree in the monastery courtyard, said to have been planted by the saint himself.
Tip Ask a monk about the story.
Things to do
A visit to Mar Saba is short, and it is best enjoyed as part of a longer day.
Male visitors can join a short guided tour of the church, tomb and chapels. It is a quiet and moving visit.
Tip Confirm the opening hours and any current restrictions before you go.
The view across the gorge is the best in the area, and it is open to everyone.
Tip Bring a zoom lens or binoculars.
The road descends through a bare, dramatic landscape, past Bedouin camps and eroded hills.
Tip Go in the late afternoon.
The three fit into a single day with a driver, and give a picture of the area's history.
Tip Start with the monastery, when it is open.
Several Bedouin families in the area offer tea, bread and a chance to meet.
Tip Ask your driver to arrange it.
Trails lead through wadis and terraces around the monastery, with a guide.
Tip Go in winter or spring, and take plenty of water.
Local food
There is no food at the monastery, and it is best to bring your own or eat in Bethlehem or with a Bedouin family.
Bring bread, hummus, olives and fruit from Bethlehem, and eat at the viewpoint.
Where to try it Shops in Bethlehem.
Hot, sweet tea and flat bread offered by Bedouin families in the desert.
Where to try it Bedouin camps near the monastery.
The reliable staple in Bethlehem and Beit Sahour.
Where to try it Stalls near Manger Square.
Sold by roadside stalls in season.
Where to try it Roadside stands.
Good for a picnic.
Where to try it Shops in Bethlehem.
Served at the monastery's gate and in the camps.
Where to try it Ask your host.
Accommodation
There is no accommodation near the monastery, and most visitors stay in Bethlehem or Jerusalem.
Transport
Mar Saba is about 12 km east of Bethlehem, on a road that runs through the desert. A taxi or driver is essential.
There is little to do on foot except at the monastery and the viewpoints.
When to go
The Judean Desert is hot in summer and mild in winter. Spring and autumn are the best seasons for walking and photography.
Warm, clear and green after winter rain.
Very hot and dry. Visit at dawn or dusk.
Warm and clear, with good light.
Mild and quiet, but rain can cause flash floods in the gorge.
Worth planning around: Midday in summer and rainy days, when flash floods can affect the road.
Itinerary
A morning at the monastery and the Women's Tower, then a desert road and lunch in Bethlehem. Assumes a driver from Bethlehem.
A quiet morning in the Judean Desert.
Travel tips
Mar Saba has its own rules, and a few tips help.
FAQ
A rule dating from the monastery's founder, St Sabbas, in the 5th century, keeps the community of monks strictly separate from women. Women can see the monastery from the Women's Tower and the viewpoint.
A small community of Greek Orthodox monks, who follow a strict monastic life. The monastery has been continuously inhabited since 483 CE.
By taxi or private driver from Bethlehem, about 30 minutes each way. There is no public transport.
Photography is not permitted inside the monastery, but you can photograph the complex from the Women's Tower and the viewpoints.
An hour for the monastery and viewpoints, or half a day with the drive and a stop at Herodium or a Bedouin camp.
It is generally regarded as safe in normal times, but it is in the Judean Desert in Area C, and conditions can change. Check your government's advice and local information.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Mar Saba Monastery, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
Bethlehem Governorate, southeast of Bethlehem, Palestinian Territories
A striking man-made hill with the remains of Herod's palace, bathhouse and tomb, about 12 km south of Jerusalem and a short drive from Bethlehem.
Don't miss The tunnels beneath the mountain, first dug by Jewish rebels against Rome, and the view from the rim across the Dead Sea to Jordan.
Explore Destination — HerodiumBethlehem Governorate, southern West Bank, Palestinian Territories
A UNESCO-listed pilgrimage town ten kilometres south of Jerusalem, with the Church of the Nativity, an old town of stone lanes and olive-wood workshops, and warm hospitality.
Don't miss The Church of the Nativity, where you stoop through the Door of Humility and descend to the grotto marked by a silver star.
Explore Destination — BethlehemJericho Governorate, Jordan Valley, Palestinian Territories
A palm-fringed oasis about 250 metres below sea level with Neolithic ruins, an Umayyad palace and mosaics, a Greek Orthodox monastery on a cliff and a cable car above it all.
Don't miss Tell es-Sultan, where a stone tower more than ten thousand years old is among the oldest monumental structures ever found.
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