Bethlehem Governorate, southeast of Bethlehem · Palestinian Territories
A palace-fortress built by Herod the Great on top of an artificial cone of earth, with a tomb, hidden tunnels and views over the Judean Desert.
Photo: Carole Raddato from FRANKFURT, Germany · CC BY-SA 2.0
Herodium is one of the strangest and most striking ancient sites in the region. Around 23 BCE, Herod the Great, the Roman-appointed king of Judaea, chose a place south-east of Bethlehem, where he was believed to have won a battle, and built a palace-fortress on a hill. He had the summit raised into an artificial cone, about 60 metres high, with a circular wall and four towers, and built a second palace, a bathhouse, a theatre and a pool complex at the foot.
Herod died in 4 BCE, and according to the historian Josephus, he was buried here. In 2007, the Israeli archaeologist Ehud Netzer announced that he had found the tomb, on the slope of the hill, and the discovery was widely reported, although some scholars question the identification. The fortress was later used by Jewish rebels in the First Jewish Revolt and the Bar Kokhba Revolt, who dug tunnels and hiding places inside it, and by Byzantine monks who built a monastery.
The site lies in the West Bank, in Area C, under Israeli civil control, and it is run as a national park by the Israel Nature and Parks Authority. It is close to Israeli settlements, and the road links to Jerusalem are on the Israeli side, while visitors from Bethlehem can reach it by road. Palestinian and Israeli sources present its history and status differently, and it is a good place to bring an open mind.
Why visit
Herodium is dramatic, easy to visit and full of stories, and it takes only half a day.
The scale of the engineering is extraordinary, and the view from the top over the desert and the hills is superb.
The claimed tomb, with its carved stone sarcophagus fragments, is one of the most talked-about discoveries of recent decades.
Passages and cisterns beneath the fortress were dug by rebels and by Herod's engineers, and you can walk through them.
From the rim, you can see the Judean Desert, the Dead Sea and, on a clear day, the mountains of Jordan.
It is close to Bethlehem, Battir and Mar Saba, and fits easily into a day with them.
Main attractions
The site takes two to three hours, including the climb and the tunnels.
The circular wall, the round towers and the remains of the palace's courtyard, bathhouse and dining rooms sit on the summit. Some are restored, and a museum has been built.
Tip Go in the morning, when it is cooler and the light is good.
Passages inside the hill, dug by Jewish rebels in the 1st and 2nd centuries CE, and underground cisterns that stored water for the palace.
Tip Bring a torch, and watch your head. The tunnels are narrow.
A tomb on the hillside, excavated in 2007, that Ehud Netzer identified as the burial place of Herod. The ornate sarcophagus and fragments are displayed elsewhere.
Tip The identification is disputed by some scholars.
The remains of a huge complex at the foot of the hill, with a pool that was over 60 metres long, a palace, gardens and a monumental building.
Tip Walk around the base to see the scale.
A small museum on the site, displaying finds from the excavations and a model of the fortress.
Tip See it before you climb.
Remains of a chapel and monastery built inside the fortress in the 5th century, showing later use of the site.
Tip Look for the mosaic floor fragments.
Things to do
Herodium is best enjoyed in a slow morning.
A path leads up the artificial hill to the fortress, with steep steps. The view over the desert is the reward.
Tip Go early, take water and wear sturdy shoes.
Descend the steps into the hill, and walk through the narrow passages, cisterns and hiding places.
Tip Not suitable for those who dislike enclosed spaces.
On a clear day you can see Jerusalem, the Dead Sea and the hills of Moab in Jordan.
Tip Go in the late afternoon for the best light.
Herodium, Mar Saba and Bethlehem fit into a single day with a driver.
Tip Start with the church, and finish at Herodium for the sunset.
Villages such as Tuqu' and Beit Ta'mir have farms and small shops.
Tip Ask your driver.
Palestinian, Israeli and international guides describe the site's history and status differently.
Tip Ask about the perspective of your guide.
Local food
There is no restaurant on the site, so eat in Bethlehem or in a nearby village.
Bring bread, hummus, fruit and olives from Bethlehem.
Where to try it Shops in Bethlehem.
Bedouin communities live in the hills nearby and sometimes offer tea and bread to visitors.
Where to try it Ask your driver about a visit.
Available in Bethlehem and Beit Sahour.
Where to try it Stalls near Manger Square.
Small restaurants in nearby villages serve grilled meat and salads.
Where to try it Ask your driver.
Sold at roadside stalls in season.
Where to try it Roadside stands.
Served at the site's kiosk and in nearby villages.
Where to try it The visitor centre.
Accommodation
Most visitors base themselves in Bethlehem or Jerusalem and visit for the morning.
Transport
Herodium is about 5 km south-east of Bethlehem and 12 km from Jerusalem. Access routes depend on where you start.
The site is explored on foot, and the walk up to the fortress is steep.
When to go
Herodium sits at about 750 m. Spring and autumn are the best seasons, and summer is hot with little shade.
Green hills and clear views.
Hot and exposed. Go early.
Warm, clear and quiet.
Cool, wet and windy at the top.
Worth planning around: Midday in summer, and days of unrest or road closures.
Itinerary
A morning climb, tunnels and the view, then lunch in Bethlehem.
A compact archaeological visit.
Travel tips
Herodium is easy, and a few tips help.
FAQ
Herod the Great, the Roman client king of Judaea, around 23 BCE. He built a palace-fortress on an artificial hill, and, according to Josephus, was buried there.
In 2007, the archaeologist Ehud Netzer announced that he had found it on the slope of the hill, but some scholars are not convinced by the identification.
It lies in the West Bank in Area C and is run as a national park by the Israel Nature and Parks Authority. The status of the site and the wider area is disputed.
Two to three hours, including the climb, the tunnels and the museum.
Yes. It is about 15–20 minutes by taxi, and many visitors combine it with the Church of the Nativity.
It is generally regarded as safe in normal times, but it is in the West Bank near settlements and checkpoints, and conditions can change. Check your government's advice.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Herodium, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
Bethlehem Governorate, southern West Bank, Palestinian Territories
A UNESCO-listed pilgrimage town ten kilometres south of Jerusalem, with the Church of the Nativity, an old town of stone lanes and olive-wood workshops, and warm hospitality.
Don't miss The Church of the Nativity, where you stoop through the Door of Humility and descend to the grotto marked by a silver star.
Explore Destination — BethlehemBethlehem Governorate, Judean Desert, Palestinian Territories
One of the oldest inhabited monasteries in the world, with cliff-hugging chapels, a tomb of St John of Damascus and a strict rule that admits only men, in a spectacular desert gorge east of Bethlehem.
Don't miss The view of the monastery's terraces and domes stacked against a bare desert cliff, best seen from the roof of the Women's Tower across the gorge.
Explore Destination — Mar Saba MonasteryBethlehem Governorate, west of Bethlehem, Palestinian Territories
A UNESCO-listed farming village near Bethlehem, known for its terraced valley, its shared irrigation and its small green aubergines, and a gentle place to walk.
Don't miss The valley floor walk along the ancient irrigation channels, with olive, fig and vegetable terraces on one side and the old railway on the other.
Explore Destination — BattirRead next
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