Bethlehem Governorate, west of Bethlehem · Palestinian Territories
A stone village above a valley of ancient irrigated terraces, still farmed and still watered by a spring-fed system shared out among the village's families for centuries.
Photo: Labour Palestine · CC BY 2.0
Battir is a small village of about 4,000 people, seven kilometres west of Bethlehem, on the edge of a steep valley called Wadi al-Makhrour. The valley is terraced with dry-stone walls that hold small plots of olives, vines, figs, almonds and vegetables. It is watered by springs, and by an irrigation system that has been in use since Roman times, and that is shared among the village's families in a rotating schedule that has hardly changed in centuries.
In 2014, UNESCO inscribed the landscape as 'Palestine: Land of Olives and Vines, Cultural Landscape of Southern Jerusalem, Battir', and put it on the List in Danger because of the threat from planned development and the separation barrier. The Palestinian community and Israeli conservation groups jointly challenged the route of the barrier through the valley in the courts, and the case became a symbol of community-led heritage protection.
At the bottom of the valley runs the old Jaffa–Jerusalem railway, built by the Ottomans in 1892, where trains still pass. The village is a quiet, green place to walk, and the trails through the terraces are an easy half-day. It is small, quiet and a welcome contrast to the noise of the cities.
Why visit
Battir is a place to walk, look and slow down, and it shows a side of Palestine that is rarely on the news.
The terraces and irrigation system are not a reconstruction or a museum piece. Families still farm them and share the water.
The trails through the valley are a couple of hours, mostly flat, and pass springs, pools and old farm buildings.
Local guides, cafés and a small eco-museum offer visitors a warm welcome, and income goes to the community.
The village is famous for its small, sweet aubergines, grown in the terraces and served in local dishes.
Only 10–15 minutes by car, so it fits into a day with the Church of the Nativity.
Main attractions
Battir is small, and a visit takes two to four hours. A local guide adds a lot.
Wadi al-Makhrour, the valley of Battir, is a stepped hillside of stone terraces, planted with olives, fruit trees and vegetables. The paths that run along it are easy to follow.
Tip Go in spring or autumn, when the terraces are green and the light is soft.
A network of channels and pools, fed by a spring called Ain al-Balad, that delivers water to each family's plot in turn. The system dates from Roman times and is still managed by the families.
Tip Ask a guide to explain how the turns work.
The Jaffa–Jerusalem line, opened in 1892, runs along the bottom of the valley through a small station. Trains still use it, and a walking path follows the tracks.
Tip Trains run at times, so stay off the tracks and listen.
Stone houses with arched doors and flat roofs, old olive presses and a small mosque line the village lanes. The centre is quiet and friendly.
Tip Ask permission before entering courtyards.
A small centre run by the local community, with displays on the landscape, the irrigation system and village life, and a base for guided walks.
Tip Book a guide in advance.
Longer routes follow the terraces to nearby villages and hills, including sections of the Masar Ibrahim al-Khalil walking trail.
Tip Check the route and conditions with a local guide.
Things to do
Battir is small, and a slow visit works best.
A two-hour circuit along the terraces, springs and railway is the highlight of a visit.
Tip Wear sturdy shoes and bring water.
Guides from the village explain the irrigation system, the history and the politics of the area.
Tip Book through the eco-museum or your accommodation.
Village restaurants and homes serve local dishes, including the famous Battir aubergine, with olive oil, herbs and bread.
Tip Ask in advance for a home-cooked meal.
In season, visitors can join families in the olive harvest or fruit picking.
Tip Ask your guide about opportunities.
The terraces are green, the flowers are out, and the light is soft.
Tip March and April are the best months.
A morning at the Church of the Nativity and an afternoon in Battir make a satisfying day.
Tip Hire a driver for the day.
Local food
Food in Battir is simple and rural, based on the produce of the terraces.
A small, sweet, thin-skinned aubergine, grown for centuries in the valley, and served stuffed, grilled or in stews.
Where to try it Village restaurants and home meals.
Salads, dips, olives and cheeses made from local produce, with freshly baked bread.
Where to try it Restaurants and homes in the village.
Roast chicken on taboon bread with sumac and onions, especially in the olive-harvest season.
Where to try it Homes and village restaurants.
The village's olive trees produce a fragrant, peppery oil, sold in bottles and used in everything.
Where to try it Village shops and cooperatives.
Figs, grapes and almonds are picked in season.
Where to try it Terraces and roadside stalls.
A welcome for every visitor.
Where to try it Homes and cafés.
Accommodation
Most visitors come for a half-day from Bethlehem, but a few guesthouses in Battir and the nearby villages welcome overnight guests.
Transport
Battir is about 7 km west of Bethlehem, and a taxi is the easiest way there.
Everything is on foot in the valley and the village.
When to go
Battir is in the hills at about 700 m. Spring and autumn are the best seasons for walking, and winter can be cold and wet.
Green terraces and wildflowers. The best time.
Warm and dry. Walk early or late.
Warm and clear, with the olive harvest in October and November.
Cool and wet. Paths can be muddy.
Worth planning around: Rainy days, when paths are slippery, and days of unrest.
Itinerary
A guided walk in the morning and a village lunch. Assumes a driver from Bethlehem.
A gentle half-day.
Travel tips
Battir is quiet and small, and a few tips help.
FAQ
For its ancient terraced landscape and irrigation system, which have been used and managed by local families for centuries. It was inscribed in 2014 and placed on the List in Danger.
Half a day is enough for a guided walk and lunch. A night in the village is a quiet and relaxing addition.
It is not required, but a local guide adds a great deal and supports the community. Book in advance.
Yes. It is about 15 minutes by taxi, and is often combined with the Church of the Nativity. You can also walk between them with a guide.
March to May and September to November. Spring is greenest, and autumn brings the olive harvest.
Its terraces, its irrigation system and its small green aubergines, known as Battiri aubergines.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Battir, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
Bethlehem Governorate, southern West Bank, Palestinian Territories
A UNESCO-listed pilgrimage town ten kilometres south of Jerusalem, with the Church of the Nativity, an old town of stone lanes and olive-wood workshops, and warm hospitality.
Don't miss The Church of the Nativity, where you stoop through the Door of Humility and descend to the grotto marked by a silver star.
Explore Destination — BethlehemBethlehem Governorate, southeast of Bethlehem, Palestinian Territories
A striking man-made hill with the remains of Herod's palace, bathhouse and tomb, about 12 km south of Jerusalem and a short drive from Bethlehem.
Don't miss The tunnels beneath the mountain, first dug by Jewish rebels against Rome, and the view from the rim across the Dead Sea to Jordan.
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One of the oldest inhabited monasteries in the world, with cliff-hugging chapels, a tomb of St John of Damascus and a strict rule that admits only men, in a spectacular desert gorge east of Bethlehem.
Don't miss The view of the monastery's terraces and domes stacked against a bare desert cliff, best seen from the roof of the Women's Tower across the gorge.
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