Drâa-Tafilalet, south-east Morocco · Morocco
Golden dunes up to 150 metres high on the edge of the Sahara, reached by camel at dusk, with a night in a tented camp and a sunrise over the sand.
Photo: Bjørn Christian Tørrissen · CC BY-SA 3.0
Merzouga is a small village at the edge of Erg Chebbi, a sea of sand about 22 km long and 5 km wide that rises to roughly 150 metres in places. It sits close to the Algerian border, in the far south-east of Morocco, about as far from Tangier as it is possible to be in the country. It is the most accessible large dune field in Morocco and the classic Saharan experience.
The tradition is to leave the village in the late afternoon on a camel, follow a Berber guide into the dunes and arrive at a tented camp as the sun goes down. The evening involves dinner, music and drumming around a fire, and clear skies with a great many stars. The next morning, climbing a dune to watch the sunrise is the reward.
The village and its surroundings also have a life of their own. Local Gnawa communities in Khamlia perform music descended from West African traditions, Rissani has a busy market and the tombs of the Alaouite dynasty's ancestors, and nomads still camp near the dunes.
Why visit
Merzouga gives a memorable night in the Sahara without requiring days of trekking.
Erg Chebbi is a proper sand sea, with towering, ever-shifting dunes and sweeping curves.
A slow ride into the dunes at dusk is one of the most iconic experiences in Morocco.
With little light pollution, the night sky is spectacular, and dawn on the dunes is memorable.
Gnawa musicians, Amazigh hospitality and the desert markets at Rissani.
Sandboarding, 4x4 excursions and walking in the dunes.
Main attractions
The main event is the dunes, and the surroundings add variety over a couple of days.
The sea of dunes, which reaches its greatest height near the Merzouga side. The sand is fine and orange, turning red at sunset.
Tip Climb the highest dune for sunrise, and bring a scarf against the wind.
A camp of tents in the dunes, from simple Berber tents to luxury tents with private bathrooms. Dinner and music are included.
Tip Check whether winter tents are heated, and whether the camp is on the dunes or at the edge.
A village of Gnawa people, descended from sub-Saharan Africans, who perform trance music and drumming.
Tip Give a fair tip to the musicians.
The historic market town, the ancestral home of the Alaouite dynasty and site of the ancient trading city of Sijilmassa, with a lively souk on market days.
Tip Go on a Tuesday, Thursday or Sunday for the main market.
A seasonal lake by the dunes that fills after heavy rain and attracts flamingos and other birds.
Tip Ask locally whether it has water.
Things to do
A camel trek and a night in the dunes are the main thing, with a few extras.
About an hour and a half's ride into the dunes, guided by a local.
Tip Wear long trousers and a scarf.
Dinner, drums and stars, then breakfast at dawn.
Tip Bring a torch and warm layers.
Climb up before dawn and watch the sand change colour.
Tip The climb takes about 30 minutes.
Sledding down the dunes on a board, an easy family activity.
Tip Boards are provided by camps.
A drive through the desert hamlets, the lake and the Gnawa village.
Tip Book with a reputable operator, and consider the environmental impact of quad bikes.
On a clear night, the Milky Way is visible without effort.
Tip Avoid nights with a full moon.
Local food
Desert food is simple and hearty, based on bread, meat and vegetables.
A folded bread stuffed with meat, onions and spices and baked in the sand.
Where to try it Local restaurants in Rissani and Merzouga.
The staple, cooked with lamb, chicken or vegetables.
Where to try it Camps and hotels.
Sweet dates from the nearby oases.
Where to try it Markets.
The universal welcome, drunk in the dunes.
Where to try it Camps.
Served on Fridays and for special occasions.
Where to try it Local restaurants.
Accommodation
Most visitors stay one night in the desert and a night in a hotel or kasbah in Merzouga.
Transport
Merzouga is remote. The drive is part of the experience.
Within Merzouga, everything is arranged by your camp or hotel.
When to go
The Sahara is scorching in summer and cold at night in winter. Spring and autumn are best.
Warm days, cool nights and clear skies. Sandstorms are possible.
Extremely hot, often above 40°C.
Hot in September, then pleasant from October.
Pleasant days but cold nights, near freezing.
Worth planning around: June to August, when the desert heat is extreme.
Itinerary
A night in the dunes and a morning to enjoy the surroundings.
Camels and camp.
Dunes and villages.
Travel tips
A few things prepare you for the desert.
FAQ
At least one night in the dunes, with arrival the previous evening or a full day to reach it.
For most visitors, yes. The dunes are a highlight. If time is short, the Agafay Desert near Marrakech is a stony alternative.
The main tourist area is well organised. Go with a reputable guide, and avoid the border area.
Comfortable long clothes, a scarf, sturdy shoes and warm layers for the evening.
Conditions vary. Choose operators who look after their animals, and ask about their care.
Yes, by 4x4 or on foot, though the camel is the traditional way.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Merzouga, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
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Don't miss Watching the sun set on the ksar of Aït Benhaddou from the far side of the river.
Explore Destination — Aït Benhaddou and OuarzazateMarrakech-Safi, central Morocco, Morocco
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Don't miss Jemaa el-Fnaa at dusk, when the storytellers, musicians and food stalls take over the square.
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