Marrakech-Safi, central Morocco · Morocco
A rose-red imperial city of souks, palaces and hidden gardens, with a square that turns into a theatre every evening and the snowy Atlas on the horizon.
Photo: Herokk · CC BY-SA 4.0
Marrakech was founded in the 11th century by the Almoravids, a Berber dynasty from the Sahara, and it gave the country its name. Its walls, built of local pink-red earth, still surround one of the largest medinas in Morocco, and the colour gives it the nickname of the Red City. The medina was inscribed by UNESCO in 1985.
Its centre is Jemaa el-Fnaa, a huge open square that by day holds snake charmers, orange-juice sellers and henna artists, and at dusk turns into a vast open-air restaurant with smoking grills, storytellers and musicians. Around it, the souks run north through a maze of lanes, each specialising in leather, metal, spices, carpets or lanterns.
Beyond the medina lies the newer city of Guéliz, with cafés and galleries, and beyond that palm groves, golf courses and the High Atlas. Marrakech is loud, hot and intense, and it rewards those who retreat to a riad courtyard between excursions.
Why visit
Marrakech is the most complete introduction to Morocco, and an easy place to fly into from Europe.
Jemaa el-Fnaa is inscribed by UNESCO as a piece of intangible heritage for its oral traditions and performance, and it is a spectacle in its own right.
Miles of covered lanes selling leather, brass, carpets, spices and babouches, with some of the best shopping in the country.
The Bahia Palace, the Saadian Tombs and the Ben Youssef Madrasa show Moroccan decoration at its finest.
Quiet courtyards behind plain walls, from budget guesthouses to palaces, and the Majorelle Garden in its blue.
The Atlas, Ourika Valley, Essaouira and the desert road are all within a day's reach.
Main attractions
Three days lets you see the main sights, with a slow pace in the middle of the day when it is hot.
The great square, quiet by day and thrilling at night. The food stalls, numbered and lit by lanterns, serve grilled meat, snail soup and sheep's head.
Tip Watch from a rooftop café first, and agree prices before you photograph performers.
A 12th-century Almohad mosque whose 77-metre minaret, one of the most elegant in the Islamic west, is the city's landmark. Non-Muslims cannot enter, but the gardens are open.
Tip Walk around the gardens at sunset, when the stone glows.
A 19th-century palace of painted cedar ceilings, zellige tile and courtyards with orange trees, built for a grand vizier and his family.
Tip Go at opening time, before the tour groups.
A former Islamic college, rebuilt in the 16th century, with a courtyard pool, carved cedar and stucco and rooms where students lived. It reopened after a long restoration.
Tip Check opening days, and combine it with the nearby Marrakech Museum.
A 16th-century royal cemetery sealed off for centuries and rediscovered in 1917, with intricate carved cedar and marble in the Hall of the Twelve Columns.
Tip The queue can be long, so go early or late.
A garden created by the French painter Jacques Majorelle, famous for its intense cobalt blue, later owned by Yves Saint Laurent. It also houses a Berber museum and a nearby YSL museum.
Tip Buy timed tickets online, since entry is limited.
North of Jemaa el-Fnaa, the covered markets sell spices, lanterns, leather bags, slippers and rugs, from the Souk Semmarine onward.
Tip Explore in the morning, when it is cooler, and treat the first price as an opening offer.
Things to do
Marrakech is at its best on foot, at dawn and dusk, and inside its courtyards at noon.
Sit at a numbered stall at dusk for grilled meat, merguez, salads and harira. Stalls run by families with long queues are usually the best.
Tip Check the prices on the menu board.
A traditional bathhouse steam, scrub with black soap and massage, either in a local hammam or a more polished spa.
Tip Bring a swimsuit for spas, and ask what to expect at a local hammam.
Classes often start with a souk visit and end with a tagine lunch, and are a good way to understand the cuisine.
Tip Book through your riad.
Terrace cafés overlooking the square and the Koutoubia offer cool drinks and views.
Tip Go at sunset.
Day trips take you to Berber villages and waterfalls in the Atlas, or to a stony desert 40 minutes from the city with camel rides and sunset dinners.
Tip Agafay is a stony plain, not a sand desert, so do not treat it as a substitute for Merzouga.
Balloon flights over the palm groves and Atlas at sunrise are popular, and expensive.
Tip Book with a reputable operator.
Local food
Marrakech's cooking is rich in spices, dried fruit and slow-cooked meat, and the best of it is in family-run restaurants and at riads.
A Marrakech speciality: beef or lamb, preserved lemon, garlic and spices sealed in a clay urn and cooked slowly in the embers of a hammam furnace.
Where to try it Traditional restaurants in the medina.
Lamb slow-roasted in an underground oven until it falls off the bone, served with cumin and salt.
Where to try it Mechoui alley near Jemaa el-Fnaa.
Lamb with prunes and almonds, or chicken with olives and preserved lemon.
Where to try it Restaurants and riads.
Freshly squeezed on the square for a few dirhams, and the best refreshment for a hot afternoon.
Where to try it The stalls on Jemaa el-Fnaa.
Almond pastries and sweets with sweet mint tea.
Where to try it Pastry shops in the medina.
Skewers, kefta sandwiches, snail soup and fried fish.
Where to try it Jemaa el-Fnaa and the souks.
Accommodation
Most visitors stay in a riad in the medina, and a few in the modern city or in a resort out of town.
Transport
Marrakech is the main gateway to southern Morocco, with direct flights from most European cities.
The medina is on foot, and taxis help beyond it.
When to go
Marrakech has a hot, dry semi-arid climate. Spring and autumn are ideal, and winter is sunny by day but cold at night.
Warm and sunny, with the Atlas still snow-capped.
Extremely hot, often above 40°C.
Warm days and fewer visitors, cooler from October.
Mild days and chilly nights, and good for sightseeing.
Worth planning around: July and August, when heat makes sightseeing uncomfortable.
Itinerary
The main sights of the medina, the gardens and a change of pace on the third day.
Squares and souks.
History and colour.
Mountains or coast.
Travel tips
Marrakech is intense, and a few habits make it easier.
FAQ
Three days for the main sights. Add a day for each excursion to the Atlas, the desert or Essaouira.
Generally yes. The main problems are hassle, overcharging, and pickpocketing in crowded places. Solo women often experience unwanted attention, so dress modestly and stay alert.
The September 2023 earthquake, centred in the High Atlas about 70 km away, damaged parts of the medina, including some historic buildings, and many sites have since reopened or been restored. Check that the sights you want are open.
March to May and October to November. July and August are extremely hot.
They are different. Marrakech is livelier, more polished and easier for first-timers, while Fes is older, more medieval and less touristy.
It is a stony desert with camps and views, and convenient for a short trip, but it does not have the sand dunes of Merzouga.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Marrakech, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
Marrakech-Safi, Atlantic coast, Morocco
A whitewashed fortress town on the Atlantic, with a UNESCO-listed medina, a working port, long beaches and a relaxed, breezy atmosphere.
Don't miss Grilled fish straight from the boats at the harbour stalls, with gulls wheeling above the blue fishing fleet.
Explore Destination — EssaouiraMarrakech-Safi, High Atlas Mountains, Morocco
A village base for walks in the Toubkal National Park, with valley treks between Amazigh villages, mule paths and the two-day ascent of Jebel Toubkal (4,167 m).
Don't miss The first view of the snow-capped Toubkal massif from the trail above Imlil.
Explore Destination — The High Atlas and ImlilDrâa-Tafilalet, southern Morocco, Morocco
A UNESCO-listed earthen ksar, the film studios of Ouarzazate and the road of a thousand kasbahs, on the southern side of the High Atlas.
Don't miss Watching the sun set on the ksar of Aït Benhaddou from the far side of the river.
Explore Destination — Aït Benhaddou and OuarzazateFès-Meknès, northern Morocco, Morocco
Morocco's spiritual and cultural capital: a 9th-century medina of thousands of lanes, the world's oldest surviving university, ornate madrasas and traditional crafts.
Don't miss A guided walk through Fes el-Bali, ending on a terrace above the tanneries.
Explore Destination — FesRead next
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