Drâa-Tafilalet, southern Morocco · Morocco
A fortified mud-brick village on an old caravan route, a film-set town in the desert and the kasbah road that runs through palm groves and gorges.
Photo: C messier · CC BY-SA 4.0
Aït Benhaddou is a ksar, a fortified village of earthen buildings, on the old caravan route from the Sahara to Marrakech. Its houses, granaries and towers, built from rammed earth and mud brick and decorated with geometric patterns, climb a hillside above a river. UNESCO inscribed it in 1987 as an outstanding example of southern Moroccan earthen architecture. Most of the buildings date from the 17th century, though the site is much older.
Only a handful of families still live in the old village, and most of the residents now live in a newer village on the far bank of the river. But the ksar has found a second life as a film set, and has appeared in productions from Lawrence of Arabia and Gladiator to Game of Thrones.
Nearby Ouarzazate, 30 km to the south-east, has been Morocco's film capital since the 1980s, with large studios open to visitors. It also has the Taourirt Kasbah, and a large solar power complex on its outskirts. The road connecting these places crosses the High Atlas at the Tizi n'Tichka pass and follows the Drâa and Dadès valleys through palm groves and gorges.
Why visit
This is southern Morocco's most photogenic corner, and the gateway to the desert.
Aït Benhaddou shows how mud brick can create a fortress, and is one of the best-preserved ksars in Morocco.
Studios and film sets in Ouarzazate, and locations used in famous productions.
Dozens of crumbling and restored kasbahs line the valleys, part of the Road of a Thousand Kasbahs.
The Tizi n'Tichka pass and the Dadès and Todra gorges are among the great drives in Africa.
It is the natural halfway point between Marrakech and the Sahara.
Main attractions
The ksar is the main attraction, with Ouarzazate and the road offering more.
The earthen village on the hillside, reached by a footbridge across the river. A climb to the top gives views over the valley and the palm groves.
Tip Go early or late, and cross the river at sunset for the best view.
Carved wooden doors and traditional wooden locks, and the decorated towers of the old houses.
Tip Ask before entering private houses.
A former residence of the Glaoui family, who ruled the region in the early 20th century, with painted rooms and a maze of corridors.
Tip Guides help explain the rooms.
Atlas Studios and CLA Studios have hosted major productions, and their sets are open to visitors.
Tip Check current opening.
A palm grove with kasbahs, including the well-known Amridil Kasbah, about 40 km from Ouarzazate.
Tip Walk or cycle among the palms.
A high pass, about 2,260 metres, with hairpin bends and views of the Atlas.
Tip Start early, and check road conditions in winter.
Things to do
The area is good for photography, slow drives and short walks.
The ksar turns golden in the evening, and the far bank gives the best view.
Tip Go about an hour before sunset.
Walk through the sets of ancient Egypt, Rome and Jerusalem.
Tip Combine with Taourirt.
Paths lead among date palms and mud kasbahs, with irrigation channels.
Tip Bring a hat.
Continue east to the Dadès Valley and Todra Gorge, with stops at kasbahs and viewpoints.
Tip Allow a full day.
Kasbahs converted to guesthouses offer traditional hospitality.
Tip Book ahead.
The Noor Ouarzazate complex is one of the world's largest concentrated solar plants, visible from the road.
Tip It is best seen from a distance unless a tour is arranged.
Local food
The food is Berber, simple and hearty, based on grains, dates and meat.
Lamb, chicken or vegetables cooked in a clay pot.
Where to try it Restaurants in Aït Benhaddou.
Eggs cooked in a tagine with tomatoes, onions and spices.
Where to try it Cafés.
Local dates, fresh from the palm oases.
Where to try it Markets.
A Friday staple, with vegetables and meat.
Where to try it Guesthouses.
The welcome drink, often on rooftop terraces.
Where to try it Everywhere.
Accommodation
Kasbah guesthouses are the main choice near the ksar, and Ouarzazate has larger hotels.
Transport
Aït Benhaddou is about 180 km from Marrakech, over the Tizi n'Tichka pass.
A car or driver is the easiest way to move around the area.
When to go
The south is hot and dry in summer, and cold at night in winter.
Warm days and cool nights, with green oases.
Very hot, often above 40°C.
Warm and pleasant.
Mild days, cold nights. Snow is possible on the pass.
Worth planning around: July and August.
Itinerary
Over the Atlas to the ksar, then a day among kasbahs.
Mountains and a fortified village.
Films and palm groves.
Travel tips
A few things help you make the most of the area.
FAQ
Yes. It is one of Morocco's most impressive earthen villages, and it lies on the way to the Sahara.
Yes, on foot by crossing the river. Few families live there, and some houses are shops or museums.
Lawrence of Arabia, Gladiator, Kingdom of Heaven and Game of Thrones, among others.
About four hours over the Tizi n'Tichka pass, longer with stops.
It has more facilities, but Aït Benhaddou and Skoura are more atmospheric for a night.
It is a good road, but winding, and can have snow in winter. Drive carefully in daylight.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Aït Benhaddou, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
Drâa-Tafilalet, south-east Morocco, Morocco
The gateway to Erg Chebbi, Morocco's biggest sand sea: camel treks, desert camps, Gnawa music and starry skies at the far end of the country.
Don't miss Watching the sunrise from the top of the highest dune at Erg Chebbi.
Explore Destination — Merzouga and the SaharaMarrakech-Safi, central Morocco, Morocco
The most visited city in Morocco: a walled medina of souks, madrasas and palaces, the great square of Jemaa el-Fnaa, the Majorelle Garden and a hundred riads.
Don't miss Jemaa el-Fnaa at dusk, when the storytellers, musicians and food stalls take over the square.
Explore Destination — MarrakechMarrakech-Safi, High Atlas Mountains, Morocco
A village base for walks in the Toubkal National Park, with valley treks between Amazigh villages, mule paths and the two-day ascent of Jebel Toubkal (4,167 m).
Don't miss The first view of the snow-capped Toubkal massif from the trail above Imlil.
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