Marrakech-Safi, High Atlas Mountains · Morocco
Walnut groves, Amazigh villages and the highest peak in North Africa, an hour and a half from Marrakech.
Photo: Erokhin · CC BY-SA 4.0
The High Atlas is the mountain range that runs across Morocco from the Atlantic to Algeria, and it holds the highest peaks in North Africa. Imlil, at about 1,740 metres, is a small village at the head of the Mizane Valley, roughly 60 km from Marrakech, and the starting point for most walks in Toubkal National Park. Jebel Toubkal (4,167 metres) rises above it.
The area is home to Amazigh (Berber) communities who farm terraced fields and walnut orchards, and who have hosted trekkers for decades. The villages are built of stone and earth, and the paths between them, once used by mules and shepherds, offer some of the finest walking in the country.
The September 2023 earthquake, which was centred in the Al Haouz province of the High Atlas, caused severe damage and killed close to 3,000 people, and the Imlil area was among those affected. Rebuilding has continued, and many guesthouses and trails have reopened, but conditions vary, so check locally before you travel.
Why visit
Imlil is the quickest escape from Marrakech into real mountains, with a warm welcome and superb walking.
Toubkal is a straightforward, non-technical climb in summer, though demanding at altitude.
Easy day walks and multi-day treks connect Amazigh villages with mule tracks.
A refreshing change from the heat of Marrakech in summer.
Guesthouses and mountain gîtes serve home-cooked tagines, with tea on the terrace.
A day trip or a two-day stay is easily arranged.
Main attractions
The scenery is the main attraction, and the walks range from short to demanding.
The highest summit in North Africa at 4,167 metres, usually climbed in two days, with a night at the Toubkal refuge (Neltner Refuge, at about 3,200 metres).
Tip Allow time to acclimatise, and take a guide.
A stone village on the slope above Imlil, with terraced fields and guesthouses, on the route to the refuge.
Tip A pleasant half-day walk from Imlil.
A whitewashed shrine and a small settlement beside a river, revered locally, on the path to the refuge. Non-Muslims cannot enter the shrine.
Tip Stop for mint tea.
Trails lead through walnut and apple orchards to villages such as Tamatert, Tacheddirt and Ait Souka, with panoramic views.
Tip Hire a local guide for less-marked paths.
A protected area of rocky peaks, juniper woods and high pastures, with Barbary macaques and birds of prey.
Tip Bring a map and rain jacket.
Things to do
Most visitors walk, with the option of climbing Toubkal.
A two-day ascent from Imlil with a night at the refuge, best from May to October when the route is free of snow.
Tip In winter, crampons and an ice axe and a guide are needed.
Half-day and full-day routes visit nearby villages, with lunch in a family home.
Tip Book a local guide through your guesthouse.
Mules carry luggage and, if you wish, you.
Tip Agree the price beforehand.
Small hotels and gîtes offer terraces, home cooking and starry skies.
Tip Book ahead in high season.
Routes such as the Toubkal circuit or the Mgoun massif link villages over several days.
Tip Use a licensed guide and agency.
A neighbouring valley with waterfalls at Setti Fatma and popular day-trip restaurants.
Tip Best on weekdays.
Local food
Mountain food is simple and filling, based on bread, vegetables, eggs and tagines.
Slow-cooked vegetables in a clay pot, often with lamb or chicken.
Where to try it Guesthouses.
Warm home-baked bread with local olive oil and honey.
Where to try it Breakfast at guesthouses.
Locally grown nuts.
Where to try it Village shops.
Served on every trek, often with a view.
Where to try it Everywhere.
A Friday dish, with vegetables and meat.
Where to try it Family guesthouses.
Accommodation
Imlil and nearby villages have guesthouses and mountain lodges, and the Toubkal refuge is for climbers.
Transport
Imlil is about 60 km south of Marrakech, up a valley road.
Everything beyond the road end is on foot or by mule.
When to go
In summer the mountains are a cool escape, but winter brings snow and cold.
Wildflowers and blossom, with snow on the summits.
Hot in the lowlands, cool and clear in the mountains. Busy on the Toubkal path.
Clear, stable weather and colour in the walnut groves.
Snow and ice make Toubkal a winter mountaineering route.
Worth planning around: Winter for Toubkal, unless experienced and equipped.
Itinerary
Easy walks first, then Toubkal for the fit and prepared.
Acclimatising.
The climb begins.
Toubkal and descent.
Travel tips
The mountains are simple to reach but should be treated with respect.
FAQ
In summer, it is a non-technical walk, but at high altitude and steep in places. Fitness and acclimatisation matter. In winter, it needs mountaineering gear and experience.
It is strongly recommended and may be required in some conditions. Use a licensed guide through your guesthouse or a reputable agency.
Usually two days: about 5–6 hours to the refuge, then 3–4 hours to the summit and a descent to Imlil.
Yes. The September 2023 earthquake damaged villages in the area. Many have been rebuilt or reopened, but check current conditions before you go.
Yes, though it is a long day. Staying a night is more rewarding.
May to October for Toubkal, and spring and autumn for valley walks.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Imlil, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
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Don't miss Jemaa el-Fnaa at dusk, when the storytellers, musicians and food stalls take over the square.
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Don't miss Watching the sun set on the ksar of Aït Benhaddou from the far side of the river.
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Don't miss Grilled fish straight from the boats at the harbour stalls, with gulls wheeling above the blue fishing fleet.
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