Quintana Roo, Caribbean coast · Mexico
White sand, turquoise water and a small Maya fortress on a cliff above the Caribbean, with jungle cenotes and the world's second-largest barrier reef offshore.
Photo: Martin Falbisoner · CC BY-SA 4.0
The Caribbean coast of the Yucatán, known as the Riviera Maya, runs about 130 km from Cancún south to Tulum, a string of beaches, coves, lagoons and small resort towns backed by jungle. Offshore lies the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef, the second-largest in the world. Before the Spanish arrived, the coast was a busy Maya trading route, and its ruins are dotted along the shore.
Tulum, the Maya walled city, is the most photographed: a small but beautifully sited fortress of temples on a limestone cliff, with a white beach below. It was an important port between about 1200 and 1500 CE and was still occupied when the Spanish arrived. Nearby, Cobá is a much larger city in the jungle with a pyramid you can climb, and the Sian Ka'an biosphere reserve protects mangroves, lagoons and reef.
Development has been intense, and Tulum in particular has changed from a hippie hideaway to a fashionable, expensive resort strip. It still offers wonderful swimming, cenotes and easy access to the Maya world, and quieter alternatives exist in Akumal, Bacalar and Sian Ka'an. Sargassum seaweed can affect the beaches in some seasons.
Why visit
Tulum and the Riviera Maya combine beaches, snorkelling, cenotes and ruins within a short drive.
Tulum's temples stand on a cliff, with the Caribbean turquoise behind, one of the most striking settings for any ancient site.
Dozens of sinkholes, from open pools to caves with stalactites, are within a short drive.
Sea turtles graze at Akumal, and the reef offers snorkelling, scuba and freediving.
A large jungle city with sacbé roads, stelae and the tallest pyramid in the northern Yucatán.
Sian Ka'an and the lagoon of Bacalar offer wildlife, kayaking and quiet.
Main attractions
The ruins take half a day, and the beaches, cenotes and reserve fill the rest.
A walled Maya city of about 60 buildings on a cliff, including El Castillo, the Temple of the Frescoes and the Temple of the Descending God. A small beach lies below.
Tip Go at opening or late afternoon, and swim from the beach.
A jungle city spread over lakes, linked by raised stone roads, with the 42-metre Nohoch Mul pyramid, the highest in the region. Bikes and pedicabs are available inside.
Tip Rent a bike at the entrance. Check whether climbing is permitted.
Two of the most popular cenotes, with crystal-clear water, stalactites and cave diving and snorkelling routes.
Tip Go early, before the tour groups.
A sheltered bay where green sea turtles graze on seagrass, easily seen while snorkelling. Regulations require a guide and a life jacket.
Tip Follow the rules and do not touch the turtles.
A UNESCO reserve of about 5,000 km² of mangroves, lagoons, jungle and reef south of Tulum, with dolphins, manatees, crocodiles and over 300 bird species.
Tip Book a guided boat trip.
A lively resort town with a pedestrian Fifth Avenue, and a ferry to Cozumel, an island with excellent diving.
Tip Use Playa as a transport hub.
Things to do
The Riviera Maya is built around sun, sea and short excursions.
Explore the ruins in cool light, then swim at the small beach below.
Tip Arrive before 09:00.
Try the Gran Cenote, Dos Ojos, Cenote Calavera or Casa Cenote.
Tip Bring reef-safe sunscreen and rinse first.
Green turtles swim in the shallows of the bay.
Tip Go in the morning.
Ride through the jungle between temples, and climb the pyramid if allowed.
Tip Go early to avoid heat.
The Lagoon of Seven Colours, two hours south, has clear water in many blues, stromatolites and kayaks.
Tip Stay a night.
Beaches from Playa del Carmen to Tulum offer white sand and clear water, though sargassum can affect them in spring and summer.
Tip Check current sargassum reports.
Local food
The coast serves Yucatecan classics and fresh seafood, along with a growing international food scene.
Raw fish cured in lime with onion, tomato and coriander, and grilled catch of the day.
Where to try it Beach shacks and restaurants.
Yucatecan pork and grilled fish tacos, sold in taquerías in Tulum town.
Where to try it Taquerías off the beach road.
Coconut water and sliced mango or papaya with chile and lime.
Where to try it Beach vendors.
An invasive species that is now hunted and served on menus. It has a mild, sweet flavour.
Where to try it Seafood restaurants.
Cocktail bars and beach clubs pour mezcal margaritas.
Where to try it Beach clubs in Tulum.
Made to order at the table.
Where to try it Restaurants throughout.
Accommodation
Choose between Tulum town (cheaper, walkable), the beach road (pricey, atmospheric) and the quieter smaller towns.
Transport
Tulum is about 130 km south of Cancún.
Colectivos, taxis and hire cars link the towns, and bicycles are common in Tulum.
When to go
The dry winter and spring are the best time. Summer is hot and rainy, sargassum is worse from April to August, and hurricanes can occur from June to November.
Warm, sunny and dry, with clear water. The high season.
Hot, with increasing sargassum on some beaches.
Hot, humid and rainy, with hurricane risk and sargassum. Low prices.
Peak hurricane risk in October. Improving by late November.
Worth planning around: Hurricane season, and Christmas and Easter for crowds.
Itinerary
The ruins and beach on the first day, cenotes and Cobá on the second, Akumal and Sian Ka'an on the third.
Maya history and the sea.
Jungle and water.
Wildlife.
Travel tips
Tulum is popular, and a few tips help.
FAQ
Yes, for the ruins, beaches and cenotes, though it has become expensive and crowded. Quieter alternatives include Akumal, Bacalar and Sian Ka'an.
It can be from April to August, with some beaches covered in seaweed. Conditions vary by week and beach, so check reports.
Climbing has been restricted in recent years. Check the current rules at the entrance.
Three or four for Tulum, Cobá and cenotes. A week lets you add Bacalar and Sian Ka'an.
About 130 km, or 1.5 to 2 hours by road.
It is heavily visited, and most visits are trouble-free. Petty crime and occasional violence occur, so check your government's advice and use common sense.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Tulum and the Riviera Maya, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
Yucatán State, Yucatán Peninsula, Mexico
Yucatán's cultural centre, with the New Wonder of Chichén Itzá, the Puuc ruins of Uxmal, Valladolid's convents and cenotes, and Mérida, a graceful colonial city with the best food on the peninsula.
Don't miss El Castillo at Chichén Itzá at opening, and a swim in a cenote before lunch.
Explore Destination — Mérida & Chichén ItzáChiapas State, south-eastern Mexico, Mexico
Mexico's deep south: Palenque's sculpted Maya city in the jungle, the waterfalls of Agua Azul, the Sumidero Canyon and San Cristóbal de las Casas, a colourful highland town with living Tzotzil and Tzeltal Maya culture.
Don't miss The Temple of the Inscriptions rising out of the rainforest at Palenque, with howler monkeys calling in the mist.
Explore Destination — Chiapas: Palenque & San CristóbalCiudad de México, central Mexico, Mexico
One of the great cities of the world: Aztec ruins beside a baroque cathedral, Frida Kahlo's house, leafy Roma and Condesa, and a food scene that runs from street stalls to global fine dining.
Don't miss The National Museum of Anthropology and, after it, a plate of tacos al pastor at midnight.
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