Chiapas State, south-eastern Mexico · Mexico
Jungle-wrapped Maya temples at Palenque, a highland colonial town with indigenous markets and cold clear mornings, and waterfalls and canyons in between.
Photo: Bernard DUPONT · CC BY-SA 2.0
Chiapas is Mexico's southernmost state, bordering Guatemala, and it is different in almost every way from the north and centre: greener, wetter, poorer and more indigenous. About a quarter of its people speak an indigenous language, mostly Tzotzil, Tzeltal and Ch'ol, and their villages, markets and festivals are among the most distinctive in the country.
Palenque, in the lowland jungle near the border with Tabasco, is one of the most beautiful Maya cities. Its temples, built in the 7th century under the ruler K'inich Janaab' Pakal, sit on terraces above the forest, and the Temple of the Inscriptions holds his tomb, discovered in 1952. Only a fraction of the city has been excavated, and the rest is covered by forest. UNESCO listed the site in 1987.
In the highlands, San Cristóbal de las Casas is a colonial town at 2,200 metres, of cobbled lanes, ochre churches and lively markets, with a strong artistic and backpacker scene. Between the two, the roads pass waterfalls at Agua Azul and Misol-Ha and, near Tuxtla, the Sumidero Canyon, whose walls rise a kilometre above the river. Chiapas has had periods of unrest, including the Zapatista uprising of 1994, and some areas are subject to warnings, so check your government's advice.
Why visit
Chiapas offers the most dramatic combination of jungle, ruins and living indigenous culture in Mexico.
Ornate stucco reliefs, tall towers and a jungle setting make it the most atmospheric Maya ruin in Mexico.
Agua Azul's turquoise cascades and Misol-Ha's 35-metre fall are among the prettiest in the country.
A colonial highland town with markets, amber, coffee and a cool climate.
Villages such as San Juan Chamula and Zinacantán have distinctive dress, religious practices and markets.
A boat trip through a river gorge with crocodiles, monkeys and towering cliffs.
Main attractions
Palenque takes half a day, San Cristóbal two, and the waterfalls and canyon a day each.
A jungle Maya city with the Temple of the Inscriptions, the Palace with its tower, the Temple of the Sun and the Cross Group, many with stucco reliefs and inscriptions.
Tip Go at opening, and stay for the forest sounds.
A series of turquoise, terraced waterfalls on the road between Palenque and San Cristóbal, and the tall Misol-Ha waterfall with a swimming pool at its base.
Tip Swimming is limited at Agua Azul in the rainy season.
A 1,000-metre-deep canyon carved by the Grijalva River, explored by boat from Chiapa de Corzo, with crocodiles, spider monkeys and birds.
Tip Go in the morning.
A colourful town of tiled roofs, plazas and the Santo Domingo church and craft market, with amber and textile shops.
Tip Visit the Santo Domingo market.
Tzotzil Maya villages near San Cristóbal, with a church interior where indigenous ritual mixes with Catholicism, and weaving traditions.
Tip Photography inside the church is prohibited. Go with a local guide.
Less visited Maya sites, Toniná with a large pyramid and Bonampak with vivid murals.
Tip Combine with a Lacandon jungle trip.
Things to do
Chiapas repays time and a sense of adventure.
Walk the temples, then follow jungle paths to smaller groups and a waterfall.
Tip Bring insect repellent.
Cool off in waterfall pools on the way between Palenque and San Cristóbal.
Tip Follow local safety advice.
A two-hour trip through the gorge, with wildlife and cliff views.
Tip Bring sun protection.
Chamula and Zinacantán give a glimpse of living Maya traditions.
Tip Ask before photographing people.
Highland coffee is among the best in Mexico, served in cafés in San Cristóbal.
Tip Buy beans to take home.
Chiapas amber and hand-woven cloth are sold in the town's markets.
Tip Check that amber is genuine.
Local food
Chiapas food is hearty and distinctive, with local corn, beans, chiles and coffee.
Roast pork in an adobo sauce, and large tamales of chipilín herb.
Where to try it Restaurants in San Cristóbal.
A cold drink of fermented corn dough, sold at markets.
Where to try it Markets.
Locally grown coffee and hot chocolate.
Where to try it Cafés.
Made with local cheese.
Where to try it Street stalls.
Grilled fish, served in Palenque and Chiapa de Corzo.
Where to try it Riverside restaurants.
A traditional sugar-cane spirit used in rituals.
Where to try it Bars in San Cristóbal.
Accommodation
San Cristóbal and Palenque are the two bases, with a range of prices.
Transport
Chiapas is about 1,000 km south-east of Mexico City.
Colectivos, tours and taxis link the sites.
When to go
Palenque is hot and humid all year, and San Cristóbal is cool. The dry season is best for waterfalls and roads.
Dry and cool in the highlands, comfortable in the jungle.
Hot and dry in the lowlands.
Heavy rain, muddy roads, and waterfalls at their most powerful.
The end of the rains, green and fresh.
Worth planning around: The wettest months for road travel, and any period of blockades.
Itinerary
Palenque and the waterfalls, then the road to San Cristóbal and the highlands.
Jungle ruins.
A scenic transfer.
Markets and villages.
A boat through a gorge.
Travel tips
Chiapas is remote and rewarding, and a few tips help.
FAQ
The main tourist areas, Palenque and San Cristóbal, are widely visited, but Chiapas has had unrest, road blockades and, in some areas, violence. Some governments advise caution. Check advice and local news, and travel by day.
Four or five for Palenque, the waterfalls, the Sumidero and San Cristóbal.
A 1994 armed uprising in Chiapas by an indigenous movement demanding land and rights. It is now mostly political, and Zapatista communities exist, but San Cristóbal is peaceful.
In some pools, in the dry season. Currents can be strong, and after rain the water may be brown.
November to April, though the rainy season is green and quiet.
By bus or colectivo, about 5 to 6 hours, with a stop at the waterfalls.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Chiapas, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
Yucatán State, Yucatán Peninsula, Mexico
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Don't miss El Castillo at Chichén Itzá at opening, and a swim in a cenote before lunch.
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A colourful colonial city in the Sierra Madre del Sur, the heart of Zapotec and Mixtec culture, with the country's best food, mezcal and handicrafts, and ruins and craft villages in the valleys around it.
Don't miss Monte Albán at opening, then mole and mezcal in the old city that evening.
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Mexico's Caribbean coast south of Cancún: Tulum's cliff-top Maya ruins and beach, Cobá's jungle pyramid, swimmable cenotes, snorkelling with turtles and laid-back beach towns.
Don't miss The Tulum ruins above the sea in the early morning, followed by a swim in a jungle cenote.
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