Ciudad de México, central Mexico · Mexico
An enormous high-altitude capital built on an Aztec island city, with world-class museums, Diego Rivera murals, floating gardens and some of the best food on Earth.
Photo: Diego Delso · CC BY-SA 3.0
Mexico City stands on the site of Tenochtitlán, the Aztec capital that Hernán Cortés reached in 1519 and largely destroyed two years later. The Spaniards built their capital on top, draining the lake it stood on, so that today the Templo Mayor's excavated ruins lie a few steps from the largest cathedral in the Americas. The city has about 22 million people in its metropolitan area, at an altitude of 2,240 metres.
It is a city of neighbourhoods rather than a single centre. The historic centre has palaces, murals and the Zócalo, one of the biggest public squares in the world. Roma and Condesa have Art Nouveau mansions, tree-lined streets, cafés and galleries; Coyoacán is a village-like district with Frida Kahlo's house; Polanco has the grand museums and restaurants; and Xochimilco has canals and painted boats.
It is also one of the world's great food cities. From the tacos al pastor stands of every corner to the tasting menus of Pujol, from the markets of La Merced to the coffee culture of Roma, eating is the organising principle of any visit. Mexico City rewards a long stay, and no short trip covers it all.
Why visit
Mexico City is the cultural heart of Mexico and one of the most stimulating cities in the world.
The National Museum of Anthropology, the Museo Soumaya, the Frida Kahlo Museum and the Palacio de Bellas Artes are only a start.
Aztec temples, Spanish baroque churches, Art Nouveau mansions and modernist towers share the same blocks.
Diego Rivera, David Alfaro Siqueiros and José Clemente Orozco painted the story of Mexico across the walls of public buildings.
Street tacos, tamales, mole, seafood, and one of the best restaurant scenes in Latin America.
Teotihuacán, Puebla, Cholula and Tepoztlán are all within two hours.
Main attractions
The historic centre can be seen in a day on foot, and the museums and neighbourhoods need two or three more.
The vast main square is flanked by the Metropolitan Cathedral and the National Palace. Beside them are the excavated ruins of the Templo Mayor, the Aztecs' main temple, and a museum of finds.
Tip See the Diego Rivera murals in the National Palace's courtyard, which are free with ID.
Perhaps the greatest museum in Latin America, in Chapultepec Park, with the Aztec Sun Stone, Maya jade masks and reconstructions of ancient tombs.
Tip Allow at least four hours and start with the Aztec and Maya halls.
An Art Nouveau and Art Deco marble opera house with murals by Rivera, Orozco and Siqueiros inside, and a stained-glass ceiling.
Tip Visit the murals on the upper floors.
A cobbled, leafy district with markets and cafés. The blue house where Frida Kahlo was born and lived is now a museum of her paintings, clothes and belongings.
Tip Book Casa Azul tickets online, days ahead.
Two neighbouring districts of Art Nouveau mansions, parks, bookshops, cafés and restaurants, and the centre of the city's modern food and design scene.
Tip Walk Avenida Amsterdam and the Parque México in the afternoon.
The surviving canals and floating gardens of the Aztec lake system, plied by brightly painted trajinera boats with mariachi bands and food.
Tip Go on a weekday and agree the hourly price first.
A hilltop castle in the city's largest park, once home to an emperor and the presidents of Mexico, now the National History Museum with views over the city.
Tip Combine with the Anthropology Museum.
Things to do
Mexico City is built for wandering, eating and staying up late.
Taquerías stay open late and are the city's social heart. Try al pastor, suadero, campechano and tripe.
Tip Pick a busy stand, and order two at a time.
Chapultepec has the Anthropology Museum, the Modern Art Museum and the castle in one park.
Tip Most museums close on Mondays.
Guides take you through markets and streets, explaining ingredients and dishes.
Tip Go hungry.
A slow boat trip with music and food, popular with families and groups on weekends.
Tip Bring your own drinks and snacks, or buy from passing boats.
Masked wrestling at Arena México or Arena Coliseo is a raucous, theatrical evening.
Tip Buy tickets in advance.
Mercado de San Juan, La Merced and Coyoacán's market sell ingredients, prepared food and crafts.
Tip Go before noon for the best food.
Local food
Mexico City's food is a cross-section of the country, with regional dishes from every state as well as its own street classics.
Marinated pork shaved from a spit into small tortillas with pineapple, onion and coriander.
Where to try it Taquerías all over the city, particularly in Condesa and the centre.
Steamed corn dough wrapped in corn husks, filled with pork, chicken or sweet fillings, served with hot corn drink for breakfast.
Where to try it Street carts near metro stations in the morning.
Oval masa cakes filled with beans or cheese and topped with nopales, and folded tortillas with fillings like huitlacoche and squash flowers.
Where to try it Markets and street stalls.
Hominy soup and spiced meat stew, served with garnishes and lime.
Where to try it Fondas and family restaurants.
Thick hot chocolate and fried dough, served in old cafés such as the Churrería El Moro.
Where to try it Churrerías in the centre.
Mezcal bars are everywhere, and pulque, a fermented agave drink, is served in traditional pulquerías.
Where to try it Bars in Roma, Condesa and the centre.
Accommodation
Choose Roma or Condesa for walkability and restaurants, the historic centre for sights, or Polanco for luxury.
Transport
Mexico City is the country's main hub, with flights from around the world.
The metro is fast and cheap, but crowded at rush hour. Ride-hailing is convenient and safe.
When to go
At 2,240 m, Mexico City has a mild climate all year, with a rainy season from June to September. Spring and autumn are the most pleasant.
Warm, sunny days, jacaranda blossom in March and April, and little rain.
Afternoon thunderstorms most days, but mornings are often clear. Green and cheaper.
Clear skies and mild weather. Día de Muertos is the highlight.
Dry, sunny and cool at night. Some of the clearest days of the year.
Worth planning around: Semana Santa, when many locals leave and some places close, and rush hour any time of year.
Itinerary
The historic centre on the first day, museums and Coyoacán on the second, Roma and Xochimilco on the third.
Aztec and colonial Mexico.
Art and history.
Neighbourhoods and canals.
Travel tips
Mexico City is big and intense, and a few habits help.
FAQ
Four is comfortable for the centre, the museums and two neighbourhoods. A week lets you add day trips to Teotihuacán, Puebla or Tepoztlán.
The main tourist areas, including the centre, Roma, Condesa, Coyoacán and Polanco, are visited by millions of tourists safely. Petty theft is the main risk. Use ride-hailing, avoid displaying valuables and check your government's advice.
Roma or Condesa for cafés and restaurants, the historic centre for sights, or Polanco for upscale hotels.
Yes. At 2,240 metres, visitors often feel breathless or tired on the first day. Drink water, go slowly and limit alcohol at first.
March to May and October to November, when the weather is mild and dry. Summer afternoons bring rain.
No. Drink bottled or purified water. Restaurants use purified water for ice and cooking.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Mexico City, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
State of Mexico, 50 km north-east of Mexico City, Mexico
One of the largest cities of the ancient Americas, with the third-largest pyramid in the world, murals, a citadel and a two-kilometre ceremonial avenue, an hour from Mexico City.
Don't miss Climbing the Pyramid of the Sun or walking the Avenue of the Dead at opening, when the site is quiet and the light is low.
Explore Destination — TeotihuacánPuebla State, central highlands, Mexico
A UNESCO-listed colonial city of tiled facades, cathedrals and convent kitchens, with the giant pyramid of Cholula, volcanoes and one of Mexico's great cuisines, two hours from the capital.
Don't miss Sunset from the church on the Great Pyramid of Cholula, with the volcanoes Popocatépetl and Iztaccíhuatl on the horizon.
Explore Destination — Puebla & CholulaOaxaca State, southern Mexico, Mexico
A colourful colonial city in the Sierra Madre del Sur, the heart of Zapotec and Mixtec culture, with the country's best food, mezcal and handicrafts, and ruins and craft villages in the valleys around it.
Don't miss Monte Albán at opening, then mole and mezcal in the old city that evening.
Explore Destination — OaxacaRead next
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