Puebla State, central highlands · Mexico
The birthplace of mole poblano and Talavera tiles, with a baroque centre of 70 churches and, in nearby Cholula, the widest pyramid in the world topped by a church.
Photo: Janice Waltzer · CC BY 2.0
Puebla was founded by the Spanish in 1531 on the road between Mexico City and the port of Veracruz, and became one of the most important cities of colonial Mexico. Its historic centre, laid out on a grid, holds a cathedral, dozens of baroque churches, mansions faced with Talavera tiles and convents, and was inscribed by UNESCO in 1987. It is also the site of the Battle of Puebla of 5 May 1862, celebrated as Cinco de Mayo.
The city is a food capital. Mole poblano, the chocolate-chile sauce served on turkey, was reputedly created in a convent kitchen, and chiles en nogada, stuffed poblano chiles in walnut sauce, are the city's summer dish. Talavera pottery, glazed in blue and white, is still made in workshops in the city, and covers the facades of buildings.
Ten kilometres west, Cholula holds the Great Pyramid, the largest pyramid by volume in the world, which the Spaniards did not realise was a man-made structure until it was covered in vegetation. They built a church on top of it, and it now looks like a green hill with a yellow chapel and snow-capped volcanoes behind.
Why visit
Puebla combines a beautiful colonial centre with some of the best food in Mexico, and is easy to reach from the capital.
Talavera tiles, red brick and carved stone cover buildings across the compact, walkable centre.
Two of Mexico's most celebrated dishes come from Puebla, together with cemitas, tacos árabes and sweets.
A pyramid larger by volume than Egypt's Great Pyramid, with tunnels, a museum and a sanctuary on top.
On a clear day, Popocatépetl and Iztaccíhuatl frame the skyline.
Two hours by bus, so it works as a day trip or a base.
Main attractions
The centre is walkable, and Cholula is a short taxi ride away.
A large Renaissance and baroque cathedral, with one of the tallest towers in Mexico, on a shaded square lined with arcades and cafés.
Tip Look inside at the ornate altar.
A baroque chapel covered in gilded plaster and gold leaf, one of the most extravagant interiors in the Americas.
Tip Go in the morning.
The base is about 450 metres on each side, and its tunnels can be visited. On top stands the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Remedies, reached by a path.
Tip Take the tunnel tour and the path to the top.
Cobbled streets with antique shops, galleries and cafés, and a weekend market.
Tip Good on Saturdays and Sundays.
A superb museum of pre-Hispanic, colonial and modern art in two colonial buildings.
Tip Visit the rooftop café.
Studios, such as Uriarte, that make and sell hand-painted tiles and ceramics.
Tip Buy certified pieces.
Hilltop forts with a museum of the Battle of Puebla and views of the city.
Tip Go in the late afternoon.
Things to do
Puebla is a city to eat, browse and stroll in.
Try it on chicken or turkey in a traditional restaurant.
Tip Ask for a small portion first.
Walk to the church at the top for sunset and views of the volcanoes.
Tip Bring a jacket.
Buy tiles and tableware at workshops.
Tip Look for the certification mark.
Camotes (sweet potato candy), macarrones and dulces de leche in the Calle de los Dulces.
Tip Buy a small selection.
The Mercado El Carmen and the Mercado de Sabores are excellent for food.
Tip Go before noon.
Cooking classes teach you to make mole and chiles en nogada.
Tip Book ahead.
Local food
Puebla is one of the great food cities of Mexico, and its dishes have a long history.
A sauce of dried chiles, chocolate, spices, seeds and fruit, served on turkey or chicken. It is thick, dark and complex.
Where to try it Traditional restaurants in the centre.
Poblano chiles stuffed with meat and fruit, covered in walnut sauce and pomegranate seeds. A summer speciality.
Where to try it Restaurants from July to September.
Sesame rolls stuffed with meat, avocado, cheese and chipotle, eaten as a sandwich.
Where to try it Market stalls.
Spit-roasted pork in pita-style bread, a Lebanese legacy and the ancestor of al pastor.
Where to try it Taquerías.
Camotes, tortitas de Santa Clara and macarrones.
Where to try it Calle 6 Oriente.
Small fried tortillas with green or red salsa, and masa turnovers.
Where to try it Street stalls.
Accommodation
Stay in the historic centre in a restored mansion, or in Cholula for a quieter, student-filled base.
Transport
Puebla is 130 km east of Mexico City.
The centre is walkable, and taxis or the Ruta bus reach Cholula.
When to go
At 2,100 m, Puebla has a mild climate, with rain from June to September. Clear days give the best views of the volcanoes.
Dry and sunny, with clear volcano views.
Warm and dry.
Afternoon rain, but chiles en nogada season.
Clear and pleasant.
Worth planning around: The days around 5 May (Cinco de Mayo) if you want quiet.
Itinerary
The colonial centre on the first day, Cholula on the second.
Churches, tiles and food.
A giant pyramid.
Travel tips
Puebla is easy, and a few tips help.
FAQ
Two for the centre and Cholula. It can be done as a day trip from Mexico City.
The historic centre and Cholula are generally safe for visitors. Use normal precautions and check your government's advice.
The anniversary of the Mexican victory over French forces at Puebla in 1862. It is a bigger holiday in the United States than in Mexico, where it is mostly local.
A tin-glazed ceramic in blue and white, with designs brought by Spanish potters, made in Puebla since the 16th century.
Yes, two hours each way by bus, though staying overnight is better.
Yes. It regularly emits ash, and viewing is subject to warnings. Check the volcano alert level.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Puebla and Cholula, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
Ciudad de México, central Mexico, Mexico
One of the great cities of the world: Aztec ruins beside a baroque cathedral, Frida Kahlo's house, leafy Roma and Condesa, and a food scene that runs from street stalls to global fine dining.
Don't miss The National Museum of Anthropology and, after it, a plate of tacos al pastor at midnight.
Explore Destination — Mexico CityState of Mexico, 50 km north-east of Mexico City, Mexico
One of the largest cities of the ancient Americas, with the third-largest pyramid in the world, murals, a citadel and a two-kilometre ceremonial avenue, an hour from Mexico City.
Don't miss Climbing the Pyramid of the Sun or walking the Avenue of the Dead at opening, when the site is quiet and the light is low.
Explore Destination — TeotihuacánOaxaca State, southern Mexico, Mexico
A colourful colonial city in the Sierra Madre del Sur, the heart of Zapotec and Mixtec culture, with the country's best food, mezcal and handicrafts, and ruins and craft villages in the valleys around it.
Don't miss Monte Albán at opening, then mole and mezcal in the old city that evening.
Explore Destination — OaxacaRead next
Food
Eating well abroad is mostly a matter of knowing when meals happen, how the menu is structured and which dish belongs to the place you are standing in. This covers all three for the five countries in this guide, plus the signals that separate a restaurant that feeds locals from one that feeds coaches.
Heritage
A UNESCO listing tells you a place matters; it does not tell you whether it is worth two days and a detour. This is how to read the list usefully — and which sites reward building a trip around them.
Advertisement
