Styria · Austria
Austria's underrated second city, a UNESCO-listed old town and a striking contemporary art museum, with a fraction of Vienna's crowds.
Photo: C.Stadler/Bwag · CC BY-SA 4.0
Graz is Austria's second-largest city, and one underrated relative to its size and quality — a UNESCO World Heritage old town of red-tiled roofs and Renaissance courtyards, spread beneath a hilltop clock tower that has watched over the city since the 13th century.
That historic core sits alongside a lively contemporary energy, driven by six universities and a student population that gives Graz one of Austria's youngest average ages, plus a striking modern counterpoint in the Kunsthaus, a biomorphic contemporary art museum nicknamed the 'Friendly Alien' by locals.
The result is a city that pairs genuine architectural depth with a noticeably more relaxed, less touristed pace than Vienna, making it a consistently rewarding addition for visitors willing to go beyond the capital.
Why visit
Graz's case is that it delivers genuine UNESCO-listed old-town beauty with a fraction of Vienna's visitor numbers and prices.
A well-preserved mix of Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque architecture, recognised as a World Heritage Site since 1999.
A hilltop park and clock tower offering sweeping views over the old town's red rooftops.
A biomorphic contemporary art museum that stands in deliberate, playful contrast to the historic old town below.
Six universities give Graz a young, active atmosphere well beyond what its visitor numbers might suggest.
Comparable architectural quality at meaningfully lower prices and crowd levels.
Main attractions
Graz's essential sights, spanning the UNESCO-listed old town and the hilltop park above it.
A hilltop park crowned by Graz's iconic 13th-century clock tower, offering sweeping views over the old town's red-tiled roofs.
Tip Take the funicular up and walk down through the park, or climb the stairs for a rewarding, if steeper, approach.
A striking biomorphic contemporary art museum, nicknamed the 'Friendly Alien' by locals, a deliberate architectural contrast to the historic old town nearby.
Tip The building's exterior is worth photographing even if you don't have time for the exhibitions inside.
A Gothic cathedral alongside the elaborate mausoleum of Emperor Ferdinand II, one of the most significant Mannerist buildings in Central Europe.
Tip The mausoleum's interior is worth the separate entry, with considerably more elaborate decoration than the cathedral itself.
Graz's central square and surrounding Renaissance-era lanes, well preserved and considerably less crowded than comparable old towns elsewhere in Austria.
Tip Look up at the courtyards behind the main facades — many of Graz's most beautiful architectural details are hidden from the street.
The world's largest historic armoury still in its original location, housing thousands of pieces of 16th and 17th century weaponry and armour.
Tip An unusual, atmospheric museum worth the visit even without a specific interest in historic weaponry.
A UNESCO-listed baroque palace on the city's outskirts, its cosmological design reflecting the number of days, weeks and seasons in a year through its architecture.
Tip The palace's Planet Rooms, with their ceiling frescoes, are worth the guided tour to fully appreciate the symbolism.
Things to do
Beyond the old town's sights, Graz rewards its student energy and Styrian food and wine culture.
Six universities give Graz a lively, youthful energy, with student bars and cafés spread through the city beyond the historic centre.
Tip The area around the main university campus offers a good, more local counterpoint to the old town's tourist streets.
Kaiser-Josef-Platz and Lendplatz host lively morning markets selling Styrian produce, cheese and pumpkin seed oil.
Tip Visit on a Saturday morning, when the markets are at their fullest and liveliest.
A distinctive regional specialty, dark green and nutty, used across Styrian cuisine on salads and in cooking.
Tip A proper bottle from a local producer makes a worthwhile souvenir, distinct from mass-market versions.
The river running through Graz offers pleasant walking and cycling paths, including a small artificial island installation, the Murinsel.
Tip The Murinsel, a floating platform connecting both riverbanks, makes a good stop for a coffee with a view.
The rolling hills of Styria's wine country, particularly the Südsteiermark region, are a worthwhile day trip from Graz for tastings and views.
Tip A rental car or organised tour is the most practical way to reach the wine region's smaller producers.
Local food
Graz sits at the heart of Styrian cuisine, distinct from the rest of Austria for its use of pumpkin seed oil and regional produce.
A distinctive dark, nutty oil, protected by EU geographic indication status, used across Styrian cooking and salads.
Where to try it Local markets and traditional restaurants throughout Graz, often drizzled over a simple salad to let the oil's flavour stand out.
Styrian-style breaded and fried chicken, a regional take on schnitzel technique applied to poultry rather than veal.
Where to try it Traditional Styrian restaurants throughout the old town.
Widely available across the city as elsewhere in Austria, good from Graz's traditional restaurants.
Where to try it Gasthauses throughout the old town.
The Südsteiermark wine region south of Graz produces excellent whites, particularly Sauvignon Blanc, increasingly recognised internationally.
Where to try it Wine bars in Graz's old town, or a day trip directly to Südsteiermark's producers.
A simple local lettuce salad dressed with Styrian pumpkin seed oil, a defining regional side dish.
Where to try it Traditional restaurants throughout Graz, typically served alongside a main dish.
Accommodation
Graz's old town offers a convenient, walkable base for most visitors.
Transport
Graz Airport handles regional flights, with fast trains connecting to Vienna.
Graz's old town is compact and walkable, with trams covering the wider city.
When to go
Graz is pleasant most of the year, with spring and autumn offering the best balance of weather and crowds.
Mild, increasingly warm weather, ideal for walking the old town and Schlossberg park.
Warm and reliable, with fewer crowds than Vienna even at the summer peak.
Comfortable temperatures and the Styrian wine harvest in full swing nearby.
Cold but atmospheric, with a Christmas market on Hauptplatz.
Worth planning around: Nothing strongly — Graz's comparatively low visitor numbers mean crowds are rarely a genuine concern in any season.
Itinerary
The old town and Schlossberg first, then the city's modern art and student culture.
Graz's essential historic sights.
The city's contemporary side and outlying sights.
Travel tips
Practical notes on booking, timing and transport that make a real difference to a Graz trip.
FAQ
It's worth adding rather than replacing Vienna — Graz offers comparable old-town beauty with fewer crowds and lower prices, but Vienna's imperial sights and musical heritage are on a different scale entirely.
Two days covers the old town, Schlossberg and the Kunsthaus comfortably, with Eggenberg Palace or a wine country day trip as a worthwhile extension if you have more time.
By train, taking about 2.5 hours on a direct fast service — one of Austria's most convenient city-to-city connections.
No, one of Austria's more affordable cities — mid-range travel runs roughly €75–130 per person per day, noticeably below Vienna's capital-city premium.
May to June and September to October offer the most comfortable weather. Graz's comparatively low visitor numbers mean crowds are rarely a concern even in peak summer.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Graz, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
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Don't miss Sunset over Lake Neusiedl's reed-lined shore, the shallow steppe lake's wide horizon a different Austrian landscape from the Alps most visitors expect.
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Don't miss Schönbrunn Palace's gardens at golden hour, the former imperial summer residence's gravel paths stretching toward a hilltop gloriette.
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Don't miss The view from Dürnstein's castle ruins over the Danube, terraced vineyards curving with the river below and the village's blue-domed church spire in the foreground.
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