Central Vietnam · Vietnam
A limestone wilderness of jungle and rivers riddled with some of the largest caves on earth, from an easy boat ride to the expedition-only Son Doong.
Photo: Edgardo W. Olivera from Montevideo, Uruguay · CC BY 2.0
Phong Nha–Ke Bang National Park in central Vietnam holds one of the world's finest karst landscapes, with a system of caves and underground rivers cut into limestone that is about 400 million years old. UNESCO listed it as a World Heritage Site in 2003, and expanded it in 2015. Its caves range from short boat trips to some of the longest and largest in the world.
The best known is Son Doong, discovered by a local man in 1991 and first properly explored by a British caving team in 2009. It is considered the largest cave in the world by volume, with chambers so large that, it is often said, a city block of skyscrapers could fit inside, and its own jungle and river. Access is limited to organised expeditions with a strictly limited number of permits each year, and they are expensive. Other caves, such as Paradise, Phong Nha and the Dark Cave, are easily visited.
The park's other side is quiet. It is a district of small villages, rice fields, rivers and jungle, still far less visited than the coastal towns. The war has left its mark, as the Ho Chi Minh Trail passed through the region and many bombs were dropped here, and unexploded ordnance remains, so it is important to stay on marked paths.
Why visit
Phong Nha is the best place in Vietnam for cave and jungle adventure, and a good place to slow down.
Paradise Cave and Son Doong are among the most spectacular caves anywhere.
Boat trips, ziplines, kayaking and short treks suit most visitors.
A wilderness of limestone forest, with rare wildlife and birds.
Village life, rice fields and small guesthouses.
Sites on the Ho Chi Minh Trail and the story of the region.
Main attractions
There are dozens of caves, but a few stand out, with different experiences.
A vast, dry cave with a wooden walkway through a huge chamber of stalactites and stalagmites. About 31 km long in total, though only the first kilometre or so is open to casual visitors.
Tip Go early to avoid tour groups.
The first cave of the region to be opened to visitors, entered by boat along an underground river, with impressive formations.
Tip Combine with Paradise Cave.
An adventure cave where you zipline in, swim through the river and mud-bathe in a chamber, popular with active visitors.
Tip Not for those who dislike water or mud.
Son Doong is visited on multi-day guided expeditions with a limited number of permits and a high price, and requires good fitness. Hang En, the third-largest cave, is a cheaper three-day trek.
Tip Book many months ahead, and check the season, as caves close in the wet months.
A nature area with trails and a wildlife rescue centre, and a valley of paddies and streams with swimming spots.
Tip Good for a relaxed day.
Things to do
Most activities focus on caves and the outdoors.
Walk the wooden path through the main chamber, or add a longer guided trek.
Tip Bring a light jacket.
Row along the underground river, and see formations by the boat's light.
Tip Go early.
Zipline into the entrance, swim in the river and bathe in mud.
Tip Wear old clothes.
Quiet roads pass paddies and limestone hills.
Tip Rent a bicycle or scooter.
Guided treks visit smaller caves and jungle.
Tip Use a licensed guide.
Sites along the Ho Chi Minh Trail and wartime shelters.
Tip Stay on marked paths, since unexploded ordnance remains.
Local food
Phong Nha's food is simple, rural and central Vietnamese, with specialities such as pancakes and river fish.
Crisp savoury pancakes with pork and shrimp, wrapped in herbs.
Where to try it Local restaurants in Son Trach.
Fish from the Son River, steamed or grilled.
Where to try it Riverside restaurants.
Nem lui, lemongrass pork skewers served with rice paper and herbs.
Where to try it Street stalls.
Local pork cooked in jungle herbs.
Where to try it Farm restaurants.
Locally grown coffee and fruit.
Where to try it Cafés in Son Trach.
Accommodation
Most visitors stay in Son Trach village, with a few lodges in the countryside.
Transport
Phong Nha is in central Vietnam, about halfway between Hue and Vinh.
The area is spread out, with tours, scooters and bicycles as the main options.
When to go
Phong Nha is dry in spring and summer, and wet from September to December, when caves close and floods occur.
Dry, mild and pleasant.
Hot and dry. Good for caves and swimming.
Wet, with flooding and closed caves.
Cool and drizzly.
Worth planning around: The flood season from September to December, when Son Doong and many caves are closed.
Itinerary
The main caves, a jungle adventure and a day among the paddies.
Two classic caves.
Zipline and mud.
Paddies and hills.
Travel tips
A few tips help you plan.
FAQ
Two to three days for the main caves and countryside. Expeditions take three to five days.
It requires a permit, a guided expedition, good fitness and a significant budget, and is only offered in the dry season.
February to August. Autumn brings floods and closed caves.
Yes, but stay on marked paths because of unexploded ordnance from the war.
By car or bus, about 4 to 5 hours, or by train to Dong Hoi.
Yes. It is one of the most spectacular caves in Vietnam and easy to reach.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Phong Nha, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
Perfume River, central Vietnam, Vietnam
The former imperial capital on the Perfume River, with the Imperial City, the tombs of the Nguyen emperors, Thien Mu Pagoda and a distinctive royal cuisine.
Don't miss The Meridian Gate of the Imperial City, and the calm of a royal tomb reflected in its lotus pond.
Explore Destination — HueCentral coast, near Da Nang, Vietnam
A UNESCO-listed trading town of Chinese assembly halls, Japanese bridge and merchants' houses, famed for lanterns, tailors, food and its easy access to beaches and the ruins of My Son.
Don't miss The old town at dusk, when the lanterns are lit and the river fills with candle-lit boats.
Explore Destination — Hoi AnSouthern Red River Delta, northern Vietnam, Vietnam
A landscape of karst hills, rivers, caves and paddies two hours south of Hanoi, with the boat trips of Trang An and Tam Coc, the Hang Mua viewpoint, Hoa Lu ancient capital and Bai Dinh pagoda.
Don't miss A rowing boat gliding through a cave beneath the cliffs at Trang An, with water buffalo grazing beside the river.
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