Graubünden, south-east Switzerland · Switzerland
A high sunny valley of blue lakes and larch forest, home to the ultimate glamour resort and the greatest scenic railways in the world.
Photo: Isiwal · CC BY-SA 4.0
The Engadin is the high valley of the Inn river in the south-east canton of Graubünden, running at about 1,800 metres above sea level between wide peaks. It is a place of large skies, blue-green lakes, larch woods and low stone villages with sgraffito-decorated houses, where Romansh, Switzerland's fourth language, is still spoken. St. Moritz, the valley's resort, claims 322 days of sunshine a year, and is where winter tourism began in 1864.
St. Moritz has a reputation for glamour, with luxury hotels, polo on snow, horse races on the frozen lake and the Cresta Run, but the surrounding valley is just as good for ordinary visitors. Lake Sils and Lake Silvaplana are two of the most beautiful Alpine lakes, paths climb through larches to hut restaurants, and quiet villages such as Sils Maria, where Nietzsche wrote, and Pontresina offer a calmer stay.
The Engadin is also the heart of the scenic railways of Graubünden. The Bernina Express crosses the Bernina Pass from the Engadin to Italy, and the Albula and Bernina lines, with their curved viaducts and spirals, are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The Glacier Express, slowest of the fast trains, crosses the Landwasser Viaduct and runs to Zermatt. Three days is a good time to enjoy the valley.
Why visit
The Engadin combines sunshine, lakes and the most famous railways in Europe.
The Bernina and Glacier Express.
Sils, Silvaplana and St. Moritz.
A high valley with big skies.
Wide trails and snow-sure slopes.
Painted stone houses.
Main attractions
Sights are spread along the valley, linked by train and bus.
A lake ringed by hotels and pines, which freezes in winter for horse racing and other events.
Tip Walk the 4-km lake path.
A curved, six-arch stone viaduct 65 metres high, opened in 1904, on the UNESCO-listed Albula line.
Tip Photograph it from the viewpoint at Filisur.
A circular viaduct on the Bernina line, where the train loops around to lose height on the way to Italy.
Tip Ride the Bernina Express.
A high pass at 2,253 metres, with a pale lake beside the railway and views of glaciers.
Tip Ride in the window seat on the right.
A long lake with a peninsula, and a quiet village where Nietzsche lived.
Tip Walk along the shore.
A funicular to a viewpoint over the Engadin lakes.
Tip Go at sunset.
Things to do
The Engadin is for trains, lakes and walks.
Cross the Alps to Tirano in Italy.
Tip Reserve a seat.
The panoramic route to Zermatt.
Tip Book ahead.
An easy lakeside path.
Tip Start in the morning.
Winter runs and trails.
Tip Book equipment.
A village with a glacier walk to Morteratsch.
Tip Take the train.
On Lake Silvaplana.
Tip Winds are best in the afternoon.
Local food
Engadin food is Alpine and Italian-influenced.
Air-dried beef.
Where to try it Restaurants and shops.
A walnut and caramel tart.
Where to try it Bakeries.
Small dumplings with cheese.
Where to try it Mountain huts.
Dumplings wrapped in chard.
Where to try it Traditional restaurants.
A hearty soup.
Where to try it Restaurants.
Accommodation
St. Moritz is glamorous and expensive; villages are quieter and cheaper.
Transport
The Engadin is reached by rail from Chur.
Trains and buses run through the valley.
When to go
The Engadin has cold winters and sunny summers.
Thawing and closed lifts.
Hiking and lakes.
Golden larches.
Skiing and sun.
Worth planning around: The spring thaw.
Itinerary
Trains, a lake and a mountain.
Viaduct and village.
Sils and Silvaplana.
Over the pass.
Travel tips
A few tips help you plan.
FAQ
Yes, for the lakes and railways, even if you skip the luxury.
Three.
A panoramic train from Chur or St. Moritz to Tirano, Italy.
For scenery yes, though slow and pricey.
German and Romansh, with English widely understood.
June to September, or winter for skiing.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with the Engadin, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
Valais, south-west Switzerland, Switzerland
A car-free Alpine village at the foot of the Matterhorn, with the Gornergrat railway, Riffelsee reflections, hiking, year-round skiing and the highest cable car in Europe.
Don't miss The Matterhorn's reflection in the Riffelsee at dawn, from the Gornergrat railway.
Explore Destination — Zermatt and the MatterhornTicino, southern Switzerland, Switzerland
The Italian-speaking south, with Lugano's lake and piazzas, Locarno and Ascona on Lake Maggiore, the castles of Bellinzona and the Verzasca Valley.
Don't miss Sitting on Lugano's lakefront under a palm tree, with Monte Brè across the water and an espresso in hand.
Explore Destination — Lugano and TicinoEastern Switzerland, Appenzell, Switzerland
A traditional region of gentle hills, with colourful Appenzell village, the Säntis peak, the cliffside Berggasthaus Äscher, Appenzeller cheese and folk customs, away from the crowds.
Don't miss Berggasthaus Äscher, a mountain inn built into an overhanging cliff, with a view of the valley 500 metres below.
Explore Destination — Appenzell and the SäntisRead next
Transport
European rail is excellent and confusing — six national operators, three completely different pricing models, and a rail pass that is either a bargain or a waste depending on where you are going. Here is how to work out which.
Heritage
A UNESCO listing tells you a place matters; it does not tell you whether it is worth two days and a detour. This is how to read the list usefully — and which sites reward building a trip around them.
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