Eastern Switzerland, Appenzell · Switzerland
Rolling green hills, painted wooden houses, a famous cheese and a cliff-hugging mountain inn, the quietest, most traditional corner of Switzerland.
Photo: Benreis · CC BY-SA 4.0
Appenzell, in the north-east of Switzerland, is a region of gentle green hills, farmhouses and villages, watched over by the limestone peaks of the Alpstein massif. It feels a world away from the glaciers of the Bernese Oberland. Here the drama is in the details, in painted wooden facades, in cows with ornate bells and in traditions like yodelling, alphorn playing and the annual Landsgemeinde, an open-air vote by show of hands that Appenzell Innerrhoden still holds.
The region's pride is its food. Appenzeller cheese, matured in an herbal brine whose recipe is a secret, is one of Switzerland's strongest. Local sausages, Biberli gingerbread and alpine milk products fill the shops, and mountain inns serve them beside the trails. Appenzell village itself, with its colourful houses on the main street, is a delight for strolling.
The highlights above the village are the Ebenalp, where a cable car and short walk reach the Berggasthaus Äscher, an inn tucked under a cliff overhang, which became famous online, and the Säntis, at 2,502 metres the highest peak of the Alpstein, with a cable car from Schwägalp and views over six countries on a clear day. It is about two hours from Zurich, making it a quiet alternative to the busier peaks.
Why visit
Appenzell offers a traditional, uncrowded Switzerland with a dramatic surprise or two.
Berggasthaus Äscher.
Appenzell's colourful houses.
Appenzeller, made with a secret brine.
Views over six countries.
A quiet corner of Switzerland.
Main attractions
The village is the base, and the mountains are half-day trips.
A mountain inn built into a cliff in the 19th century, reached by a walk from the Ebenalp cable car, with a terrace above a drop.
Tip Go early, and expect queues in summer.
The highest peak of the Alpstein, at 2,502 metres, reached by cable car from Schwägalp, with views of Lake Constance and the Alps.
Tip Check the webcam.
A village with painted facades, shops selling cheese and embroidery, and a small museum.
Tip Visit on a weekday.
A cliff-top plateau with a cave church, the Wildkirchli, and hiking trails.
Tip Take the cable car.
A small mountain lake reached by a walk from Wasserauen.
Tip A good easy hike.
A dairy where you can learn about the cheese.
Tip Book tastings.
Things to do
Appenzell is for walking and eating.
Walk from the Ebenalp cable car.
Tip Bring sturdy shoes.
Take the cable car from Schwägalp.
Tip Go on a clear day.
Sample varying ages.
Tip Visit the show dairy.
An easy trail.
Tip Swim if warm.
Cow parades in autumn.
Tip Check dates in September.
Local crafts.
Tip Shops in the village.
Local food
Appenzell's food is dairy-led and rich.
A hard cheese washed in herb brine.
Where to try it Show dairy and shops.
Honey gingerbread with almond filling.
Where to try it Bakeries.
A local sausage.
Where to try it Restaurants.
Cheese macaroni with apple sauce.
Where to try it Mountain inns.
A herbal liqueur.
Where to try it Bars.
Accommodation
Stay in Appenzell or a mountain inn.
Transport
Appenzell has a narrow-gauge railway.
Trains and buses serve the valleys.
When to go
Appenzell suits hikers from late spring to autumn.
Fresh green, with some trails closed.
Hiking.
Cow parades and golden light.
Snowy and calm.
Worth planning around: Wet, foggy days.
Itinerary
A cliffside inn and a summit.
The inn.
The summit.
Travel tips
A few tips help you plan.
FAQ
Yes, but it is popular, so go early.
Two.
Less than Interlaken, but the Äscher can be busy.
A hard cheese washed in herbal brine.
Train from Zurich via St. Gallen.
June to October.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Appenzell, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
Zurich, northern Switzerland, Switzerland
A compact, clean city on Lake Zurich, with a medieval old town, Bahnhofstrasse shopping, museums, river swimming and easy day trips to the mountains.
Don't miss The Limmat river with the twin towers of the Grossmünster and old-town rooftops from Lindenhof hill.
Explore Destination — ZurichGraubünden, south-east Switzerland, Switzerland
Switzerland's high valley of lakes, with the resort of St. Moritz, the Bernina and Glacier Express UNESCO railways, Lake Sils, hiking and skiing in 322 days of sunshine.
Don't miss The Glacier Express crossing the Landwasser Viaduct, a curved stone bridge over a forested gorge.
Explore Destination — St. Moritz and the EngadinCentral Switzerland, Lake Lucerne, Switzerland
A postcard old town on Lake Lucerne, with the Chapel Bridge, the Lion Monument, Mount Pilatus, Rigi and paddle-steamer trips, ideal as a Swiss base.
Don't miss Walking across the Chapel Bridge at sunset, with the Reuss river, the water tower and the snow-dusted Pilatus behind.
Explore Destination — LucerneRead next
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