Ramallah and al-Bireh Governorate, central West Bank · Palestinian Territories
The last fully Christian village in the West Bank, with a Byzantine church, a hilltop view towards the Jordan Valley and Palestine's first craft brewery.
Photo: Magister · CC BY-SA 3.0
Taybeh is a village of about 1,500 people on a hilltop 13 km north-east of Ramallah, with a view that on a clear day stretches down to the Jordan Valley and the mountains of Jordan. Its name means 'delicious' or 'good' in Arabic, and it is said to have got its name from the reputation of its food. It is one of the last entirely Christian villages in the West Bank, with Greek Orthodox, Latin (Catholic) and Melkite communities, and it is often identified with the biblical town of Ephraim, where the Gospel of John says that Jesus withdrew before the Passover.
It is best known today for the Taybeh Brewery, founded in 1994 by Nadim Khoury, who returned from the United States with a dream of brewing beer in his home village. It is the first craft brewery in Palestine, and it has grown into a source of local pride. Its Oktoberfest, held each autumn, has drawn thousands of visitors, though it has been scaled down or cancelled in some recent years because of the security situation. There is also a small winery, and olive oil is produced in the village.
The village also has the ruins of a Byzantine church of St George, known as al-Khader, and several working churches, including the Latin church of the Good Shepherd and the Greek Orthodox church. Taybeh has been affected by land disputes and settler attacks in recent years, and its people are welcoming to visitors, who support the local economy.
Why visit
Taybeh is small and easy, and it is one of the friendliest places in the West Bank.
A tour and a tasting at the Taybeh Brewery gives you a taste of the village's story and its beer.
Unusually for the West Bank, Taybeh is entirely Christian, and its churches and traditions give it a distinct character.
The ruins of the church of St George, with its mosaic floors and carved stone, sit at the edge of the village.
The village is high and quiet, with olive groves, terraces and sweeping views.
Taybeh is only 20 minutes from Ramallah, so it fits easily into a day with the Palestinian Museum or the old town.
Main attractions
Taybeh is small, and a visit takes a few hours. Book a brewery tour in advance.
A small brewery on the edge of the village, producing lager, golden, dark and amber beers, and a non-alcoholic malt drink. Tours cover the story and the process, and end with a tasting.
Tip Book a tour in advance, and check the current opening hours.
A small family winery in the village, producing local wines from grapes grown in the hills. It offers tastings and sells bottles.
Tip Ask about tours and tastings.
The ruins of a 5th-century Byzantine church at the southern edge of the village, with mosaic fragments and carved stone. A later Crusader church stands next to it.
Tip Ask the villagers for the key or a guide.
A small church built in the 19th century, with a peaceful courtyard and a view over the valley.
Tip Modest dress is required, and services are on Sundays.
The active Greek Orthodox church, with icons and a carved wooden screen.
Tip Check when it is open.
Narrow lanes with stone houses and terraces lead to a viewpoint that faces east across the Jordan Valley.
Tip Go at sunset.
Things to do
A slow half-day in Taybeh is best spent talking to people and tasting the local products.
Visit the brewery, learn its story and taste the beers with a snack.
Tip Book a tour and check hours.
Small restaurants serve Palestinian dishes, often with local olive oil and beer.
Tip Ask for a recommendation at the brewery.
See the Byzantine mosaics and the view.
Tip Ask a villager to show you.
The annual festival brings music, food and beer to the village, though it is scaled down or cancelled in difficult years.
Tip Check whether it is being held before you plan.
People are curious about visitors and often invite you to tea.
Tip Accept, and bring a small gift.
All are close, and can be combined in a day.
Tip Hire a driver.
Local food
Taybeh's food is traditional Palestinian, and its most famous product is beer.
Palestine's best-known beer, brewed locally, sold across the West Bank and exported to a few other countries.
Where to try it The brewery and restaurants in Ramallah.
Wine from the village's winery, made in a small way from local grapes.
Where to try it The winery.
Made from village olives, with a fragrant and slightly bitter flavour.
Where to try it Village shops.
Roast chicken with sumac and onions on taboon bread.
Where to try it Village restaurants and homes.
Salads, dips and pickles.
Where to try it Restaurants.
Served as a welcome.
Where to try it Homes and shops.
Accommodation
Taybeh is normally a day trip from Ramallah, but a few guesthouses and homestays are available.
Transport
Taybeh is about 13 km north-east of Ramallah, on a road that climbs through the hills.
The village is small, and everything is on foot.
When to go
Taybeh is in the hills at about 850 m. Spring and autumn are the best seasons, and the Oktoberfest, when held, is in October.
Green hills and warm days.
Warm and dry. Evenings are pleasant.
Warm and clear, with the olive harvest and the Oktoberfest.
Cool and wet. Christmas is celebrated in the village.
Worth planning around: Days of unrest or road closures, and Sundays for some shops.
Itinerary
A brewery tour, lunch and a walk to the church ruins. Assumes a driver from Ramallah.
A relaxed half-day.
Travel tips
Taybeh is small and friendly, and a few tips help.
FAQ
The Taybeh Brewery, founded in 1994 and the first craft brewery in Palestine, and for being one of the last entirely Christian villages in the West Bank.
Yes, by appointment. Tours cover the story of the brewery and end with a tasting. Book in advance and check the hours.
Half a day is enough for the brewery, lunch and a walk to the church ruins.
It is a quiet and welcoming village, but it is in the West Bank, and conditions can change. The village has experienced land disputes and attacks in recent years. Check your government's advice and local information.
Many scholars and villagers identify it with Ephraim, the town where, according to the Gospel of John, Jesus withdrew with his disciples before Passover. The identification is not certain.
Yes. It is about 20 minutes by taxi or car, and is often combined with Birzeit or Jericho.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Taybeh, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
Ramallah and al-Bireh Governorate, central West Bank, Palestinian Territories
A modern, lively city 15 km north of Jerusalem with museums, a thriving arts and music scene, a good restaurant and bar scene, and the mausoleum of Yasser Arafat.
Don't miss The Arafat Museum and the Mahmoud Darwish Museum, then a long dinner of Palestinian food in the evening.
Explore Destination — RamallahNablus Governorate, northern West Bank, Palestinian Territories
The commercial and cultural capital of the northern West Bank, with a well-preserved Ottoman old city, a famous soap-making tradition, the best knafeh in Palestine and Roman remains close by.
Don't miss The old city's souk at breakfast, with knafeh coming out of huge trays and the smell of olive-oil soap in the air.
Explore Destination — NablusNablus Governorate, northern West Bank, Palestinian Territories
A small village on a hill above Nablus, built over the ruins of biblical Samaria and Roman Sebaste, with two thousand years of layers and almost no visitors.
Don't miss The Roman forum and its colonnade on the summit, with the olive groves of Samaria stretching away on all sides.
Explore Destination — Sebastia (Ancient Samaria)Read next
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