Nablus Governorate, northern West Bank · Palestinian Territories
The hilltop capital of the northern Kingdom of Israel, rebuilt by Herod as a Roman city, with a forum, theatre and a cathedral said to hold the head of John the Baptist.
Photo: Ywpark2003 Prof. Yong Woo Park · CC BY 4.0
Sebastia is a village of about 3,000 people on a hilltop in the northern West Bank, 12 km north-west of Nablus, and it sits on top of one of the most important archaeological sites in the region. In the 9th century BCE, King Omri bought the hill and built the capital of the northern Kingdom of Israel here, called Samaria, and his son Ahab and his wife Jezebel are associated with it in the Bible. The city fell to the Assyrians in about 722 BCE.
Around 30 BCE, the Roman emperor Augustus gave Samaria to Herod the Great, who rebuilt it as a grand Roman city and renamed it Sebaste, the Greek form of Augustus. He built a temple to Augustus, a forum with a basilica, a stadium and a long colonnaded street, and their remains still line the hill. Later, the Byzantines built a church over what was believed to be the tomb of John the Baptist, and the Crusaders replaced it with a cathedral, part of which is now a mosque.
The site is now spread between the village, which is in an area administered by the Palestinian Authority, and an archaeological park in Area C, which is administered by Israel. It has very few visitors, and the village is a quiet, agricultural place with a small tourism cooperative that offers guides, meals and accommodation. Some of the outer land has seen disputes between villagers and settlers, so conditions can change.
Why visit
Sebastia is a rarely visited place where Israelite, Hellenistic, Roman, Byzantine and Crusader history are layered on one hilltop.
The remains of the Israelite royal quarter, with walls and a large courtyard from the 9th century BCE, sit at the top of the hill.
Herod's forum, basilica, stadium and a long colonnade survive in part, and some of the columns still stand.
The 12th-century Crusader cathedral, later partly turned into the Mosque of Nabi Yahya, holds a shrine that both Christians and Muslims associate with John the Baptist.
You can walk the site alone, and the village guides can show you around.
The hills around Sebastia are covered in ancient olive groves, and the views are wide and green.
Main attractions
The site is spread across the hill, and a half-day covers the main sights.
The hilltop remains of the palace and royal quarter of the kings of Israel, with massive walls, a courtyard and terraces, dating from the 9th to 8th centuries BCE.
Tip The view from the top is excellent.
A large paved area with a row of standing columns, and the foundation of a basilica, all built by Herod's engineers. It was the heart of the Roman city.
Tip Go in the late afternoon for the light on the stones.
The base of Herod's temple to the emperor, with a huge stepped platform at the top of the hill. It was one of the most impressive buildings of the Roman east.
Tip Look at the size of the foundation stones.
A theatre on the northern slope and a stadium that once seated thousands. Both are partly ruined but their shape is clear.
Tip The theatre has good views over the valley.
A long paved road with a line of columns, running along the hillside. Some of the columns have been re-erected.
Tip Walk the length of it to see the scale of the city.
The ruins of a 12th-century cathedral built over a Byzantine church, and a mosque built into part of it. The crypt is traditionally identified as the burial place of John the Baptist, and is venerated by Christians and Muslims.
Tip Dress modestly, and ask permission before entering the mosque.
A hilltop village of old stone houses and olive presses, with a small tourism centre, restaurants and a friendly atmosphere.
Tip Buy olive oil and crafts from the village.
Things to do
Sebastia is best for a slow half-day, with a guide from the village.
Local guides from the village know the site well and can show the parts that are hard to find.
Tip Book in advance through the village cooperative.
A short climb leads to the top of the hill and the view over the olive groves.
Tip Go in the evening, when the light is soft.
Village restaurants serve Palestinian food, often with local olive oil and vegetables.
Tip Book in advance.
A local olive press shows how oil is made, and in autumn you can watch the harvest.
Tip Ask your guide.
Homestays let you see village life and share meals.
Tip Arrange through the cooperative.
Sebastia and Nablus are 20 minutes apart, so they make a good day.
Tip Start with the old city in Nablus, and end at Sebastia for sunset.
Local food
Sebastia's food is simple and rural, and depends on the produce of the hills.
Roast chicken with sumac and onions on taboon bread, drizzled with the local olive oil.
Where to try it Village restaurants and homes.
The hills around Sebastia are known for their old olive groves and their oil.
Where to try it Village shops and cooperatives.
Warm bread baked in a clay oven, served with za'atar and oil.
Where to try it Village homes and cafés.
Salads, cheeses, olives and dips.
Where to try it Restaurants in the village.
Figs, grapes and pomegranates in autumn.
Where to try it Farms and roadside stalls.
A welcome for every visitor.
Where to try it Homes and cafés.
Accommodation
Sebastia is normally a day trip from Nablus or Ramallah, but the village has guesthouses and homestays for those who want to stay.
Transport
Sebastia is about 12 km north-west of Nablus. Roads can be affected by checkpoints and closures.
The site and village are on foot.
When to go
Sebastia is in the hills of Samaria at about 400 m. Spring and autumn are the best seasons, and the olive harvest is a highlight.
Green hills and wildflowers, with pleasant temperatures.
Warm and dry. Visit early or late.
Warm and clear, with the olive harvest.
Cool and wet, with muddy paths.
Worth planning around: Rainy days, and days of unrest or road closures in the Nablus area.
Itinerary
A guided walk through the ruins, a village lunch and an olive-oil visit. Assumes a base in Nablus or Ramallah.
A quiet day among the ruins.
Travel tips
Sebastia is small and quiet, and a few tips help.
FAQ
A village built over ancient Samaria, the capital of the northern Kingdom of Israel, which Herod the Great rebuilt as the Roman city of Sebaste. It has Israelite, Roman, Byzantine and Crusader remains.
Half a day covers the main ruins and the village. A night lets you enjoy the quiet.
A tradition, held by both Christians and Muslims, places his burial here, and a Byzantine church and a Crusader cathedral were built over the spot. The crypt is now within a mosque.
Yes. It is about 25 minutes from Nablus and 90 minutes from Ramallah, depending on checkpoints. Go with a local guide.
It is a quiet village that welcomes visitors, but it is in the northern West Bank, where conditions and advice can change. Check current advice and local information.
The site lies partly in an area administered by Israel and partly in the village, and management is shared and disputed. A local guide can explain the current arrangements.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Sebastia, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
Nablus Governorate, northern West Bank, Palestinian Territories
The commercial and cultural capital of the northern West Bank, with a well-preserved Ottoman old city, a famous soap-making tradition, the best knafeh in Palestine and Roman remains close by.
Don't miss The old city's souk at breakfast, with knafeh coming out of huge trays and the smell of olive-oil soap in the air.
Explore Destination — NablusRamallah and al-Bireh Governorate, central West Bank, Palestinian Territories
A modern, lively city 15 km north of Jerusalem with museums, a thriving arts and music scene, a good restaurant and bar scene, and the mausoleum of Yasser Arafat.
Don't miss The Arafat Museum and the Mahmoud Darwish Museum, then a long dinner of Palestinian food in the evening.
Explore Destination — RamallahRamallah and al-Bireh Governorate, central West Bank, Palestinian Territories
A small hilltop village of stone houses and olive groves, 13 km from Ramallah, best known for the Taybeh Brewery, its Oktoberfest and its Christian heritage.
Don't miss A tasting at the Taybeh Brewery, followed by a walk through the old village to the ruins of the Byzantine church of St George.
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