Tanger-Tétouan-Al Hoceïma, Rif Mountains · Morocco
A small mountain town in the Rif, washed in every shade of blue, with a relaxed pace, waterfalls nearby and some of the best walking in northern Morocco.
Photo: Badr Rachadi · CC BY-SA 4.0
Chefchaouen was founded in 1471 as a small fortress, or kasbah, to defend the region against Portuguese attacks on the northern coast. After the fall of Granada in 1492, it received waves of Muslim and Jewish refugees from Andalusia, who shaped its architecture, its whitewashed houses and its red-tiled roofs. It remained closed to foreigners until the Spanish took it in 1920, and it became part of Morocco again after independence in 1956.
The blue is the town's signature. The tradition is often traced to the Jewish refugees who settled here, with blue symbolising the sky and heaven, though the story is disputed and much of the blue is now repainted regularly for visitors. Whatever its origin, the effect of blue-washed steps, doorways, pots and walls against the green Rif Mountains is remarkable.
Chefchaouen sits at about 600 metres, and the air is cool and fresh. It is small, relaxed and very photogenic, and it makes a welcome pause between the intensity of Fes and the Mediterranean coast.
Why visit
Chefchaouen is a place to slow down, with an atmosphere unlike the imperial cities.
Streets, stairs and doorways washed in shades of blue, with terracotta pots and painted doors.
The medina is small, and there is little hard selling compared with Marrakech or Fes.
The Rif Mountains and Talassemtane National Park offer walking, waterfalls and cedar forest.
Woven blankets, wool goods, goat's cheese and honey are sold in the market.
The whitewashed houses and Spanish influence recall southern Spain, which lies across the strait.
Main attractions
The medina is small, and one full day covers it, but the surroundings make it worth staying a night.
The heart of the town, where every stair and doorway seems to have been painted for a photograph. The blue changes with the light and is at its best in early morning and late afternoon.
Tip Go early, and be respectful when photographing residents.
The main square, shaded by trees and lined with cafés facing the Kasbah and the Great Mosque, whose octagonal minaret is unusual in Morocco.
Tip Have a mint tea and watch the town go by.
The 15th-century fortress with a garden courtyard, a small museum of regional crafts and a tower with views over the roofs.
Tip Climb the tower for the panorama.
The spring at the top of the town where the river emerges from the mountain, with a waterfall, small cafés and old washing places.
Tip Walk up in the afternoon.
A disused mosque on a hilltop east of town, built by the Spanish in the 1920s, reached by a 30-minute walk. It is the classic sunset viewpoint.
Tip Take water and a jacket.
Things to do
Chefchaouen is for walking, photography and doing very little.
The medina is empty in the early morning, and the light is soft. It is the best time for photographs.
Tip Set an alarm.
A short climb gives a view over the blue town and the surrounding mountains.
Tip Go about an hour before sunset.
A day trip to Talassemtane National Park, where a trail leads to the Akchour waterfalls and the rock formation known as God's Bridge.
Tip Take a shared taxi from town, and check trail conditions.
Woven blankets, hats, and locally made goat's cheese and honey.
Tip Bargain politely.
The terraces around Plaza Uta el-Hammam are good for slow tea and coffee.
Tip Try the rooftop cafés for views.
Tetouan, the Mediterranean beaches and Tangier are within a few hours.
Tip Buses from the main station.
Local food
Chefchaouen's cooking is northern Moroccan, with Andalusian touches, and it is known for its goat's cheese.
Fresh white goat's cheese, sold in the market wrapped in leaves, and eaten with honey and bread.
Where to try it The market and cafés.
Local versions, often with vegetables and preserved lemon.
Where to try it Restaurants around the square.
A thick bean soup, popular on cool mornings.
Where to try it Street stalls.
Skewers and kefta, served with bread and salads.
Where to try it Small grill restaurants.
Served in cafés with almond pastries.
Where to try it Plaza Uta el-Hammam.
Accommodation
Most visitors stay in the medina, in small guesthouses with roof terraces.
Transport
Chefchaouen is in the Rif, and the nearest major cities are Tangier, Tetouan and Fes.
The town is small and walkable.
When to go
Chefchaouen has a mild, wetter climate than the south, with cold, damp winters.
Warm and green, with wildflowers.
Warm and busy, but cooler than the interior.
Pleasant and quieter.
Cold and rainy, with few visitors.
Worth planning around: Winter for waterfall hikes, and busy weekends in summer.
Itinerary
A day for the medina and a day for the mountains.
Streets and views.
Waterfalls and walking.
Travel tips
A few tips help you enjoy the town.
FAQ
The tradition is often attributed to Jewish refugees who settled here in the 20th century, with blue symbolising heaven. The truth is disputed, and today the paint is renewed for visitors.
One night is enough for the medina. Two nights lets you walk to the waterfalls.
Generally yes. Touts may offer cannabis, which is illegal, and it is best to decline.
It can be at midday and on weekends, but early mornings and evenings are calm.
It is possible but long. It is better to stay a night.
Spring and autumn. Winter is cold and wet.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Chefchaouen, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
Fès-Meknès, northern Morocco, Morocco
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Don't miss A guided walk through Fes el-Bali, ending on a terrace above the tanneries.
Explore Destination — FesFès-Meknès, northern Morocco, Morocco
A UNESCO-listed imperial city built by Sultan Moulay Ismail, with vast gates and granaries, plus the Roman site of Volubilis and the holy town of Moulay Idriss nearby.
Don't miss The mosaics of Volubilis, still in place, with the Roman arch and the Zerhoun hills behind.
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Morocco's capital: a UNESCO-listed city with the Hassan Tower, the Mohammed V Mausoleum, the Kasbah of the Udayas, the Chellah ruins and a relaxed medina.
Don't miss The Kasbah of the Udayas, with its blue-and-white lanes and Andalusian garden above the Bouregreg river.
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