Guanajuato State, Bajío highlands · Mexico
A silver-mining city of multicoloured houses stacked up a steep valley, with underground streets, tiny plazas, a famous mummy museum and a student-filled, serenade-loving centre.
Photo: Juan Carlos Fonseca Mata · CC BY-SA 4.0
Guanajuato sits in a narrow ravine in the Mexican highlands, and it grew rich in the 18th century on silver. At its peak, its mines produced a large share of the world's silver, and the wealth paid for churches, theatres and mansions that still stand. It was also the cradle of the Mexican independence movement: the first major battle of 1810 took place at the Alhóndiga de Granaditas.
The city's oddities come from its geography. Streets are too narrow and steep for cars, so many of the main roads run underground through old mining tunnels. Houses in bright colours climb the hills, and tiny plazas and alleys, such as the Callejón del Beso, where balconies almost touch, fill the centre. UNESCO listed the city and its mines in 1988.
It is also a young city, with a large university. Students in medieval costume lead evening serenades called callejoneadas, cafés and bars are busy, and the annual Cervantino arts festival in October fills the streets with music and theatre.
Why visit
Guanajuato is one of the most charming and unusual cities in Mexico, and it is compact and easy on foot.
Pastel houses climb steep hillsides in a way that recalls a stage set, and the maze of alleys rewards wandering.
Former mine tunnels carry traffic beneath the centre, an unusual sight and a sensible solution.
Students, buskers and callejoneada troupes give the evenings a festive air.
The Alhóndiga, Basilica, Teatro Juárez and Universidad de Guanajuato are all within a short walk.
The Museo de las Momias displays naturally mummified bodies, and the Diego Rivera birthplace holds early works.
Main attractions
The centre is compact, and two days is enough for the main sights.
A tiny alley where the balconies of two houses are so close that neighbours could kiss across them, and according to legend two lovers did. It is a local ritual to kiss on the third step.
Tip Go early to avoid the crowds.
A statue of a folk hero of the independence war on a hill above the centre, with a panorama of the city. A funicular runs up from the Teatro Juárez.
Tip Go at sunset.
A former granary turned fortress, where the first great battle of the independence war took place in 1810. It is now a regional museum with murals by José Chávez Morado.
Tip Read the plaques for the story.
A yellow baroque basilica housing the Virgin of Guanajuato, surrounded by mansions and cafés.
Tip Have a coffee on the plaza.
A grand neoclassical theatre with a colonnade and lions, next to the leafy garden that is the city's living room.
Tip Visit the theatre's interior.
A museum of naturally mummified bodies from the local cemetery, a macabre and famous attraction.
Tip Not for the squeamish or for small children.
The house where the muralist was born, now a museum with a collection of his early works and family furniture.
Tip Check opening hours.
Things to do
Guanajuato is for slow walking, and for evenings out.
Follow the stairs and lanes uphill, and stop for coffee in the tiny plazas.
Tip Wear comfortable shoes.
Students in traditional costume lead a singing, drinking, storytelling walk through the alleys at night.
Tip Book a ticket the same day.
A short ride with views over the whole city.
Tip Stay for dusk.
A month-long arts festival in October, with performers from around the world.
Tip Book accommodation months ahead.
The Valenciana mine and its church are just outside the centre.
Tip Combine with a taxi tour.
Walk or drive through the underground streets, some of which follow old river beds.
Tip Watch for traffic.
Local food
Guanajuato's cooking is central Mexican, with enchiladas mineras, miners' style, as its signature.
Tortillas dipped in chile sauce, filled with cheese and served with potatoes, carrots and chicken, the miners' dish.
Where to try it Restaurants in the centre.
Crusty bolillo rolls stuffed with pork crackling and a hot salsa.
Where to try it Street stalls.
Sorbets and ice pops of local fruit.
Where to try it Ice-cream shops.
Goat's milk caramel and candied fruit, sold in the markets.
Where to try it Mercado Hidalgo.
Simple tacos at busy stands and in the market.
Where to try it Mercado Hidalgo.
Wine from the surrounding vineyards, and small-batch mezcal.
Where to try it Bars in the centre.
Accommodation
Stay in the historic centre, in a restored mansion or guesthouse, to walk everywhere.
Transport
Guanajuato is about 350 km north-west of Mexico City.
The centre is walkable, and taxis and buses cover the rest.
When to go
At 2,000 m, Guanajuato has a mild climate, with a rainy season from June to September.
Dry, sunny and cool in the evening.
Warm and dry.
Afternoon rain, green hills, fewer visitors.
Pleasant, with the Cervantino festival in October.
Worth planning around: The Cervantino weeks if you want quiet, and Semana Santa.
Itinerary
The historic sights on the first day, viewpoints and museums on the second.
Plazas and alleys.
Culture and a panorama.
Travel tips
Guanajuato is small and walkable, and a few tips help.
FAQ
Two days is enough for the sights. Add a day for the mines or a trip to San Miguel de Allende.
The city's tourist centre is generally regarded as safe, though the state has seen violence elsewhere. Check your government's advice and use normal precautions.
A night-time walking musical parade through the alleys, led by students in traditional costume, with songs and stories.
October to April. The Cervantino festival in October is lively, and busy.
Yes, but it is a long day. An overnight stay is better.
Because the ravine is too narrow for roads, engineers built roads in old mine tunnels and river channels to relieve traffic in the 20th century.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Guanajuato, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
Guanajuato State, Bajío highlands, Mexico
A UNESCO-listed highland town of baroque churches, bougainvillea and galleries, with a big expatriate community, excellent restaurants and hot springs nearby.
Don't miss The pink spires of the Parroquia at sunset, from a rooftop bar on the Jardín.
Explore Destination — San Miguel de AllendeJalisco State, western Mexico, Mexico
A confident, cultured city of plazas, murals and street food, with a UNESCO-listed hospice, the birthplace of tequila and mariachi, and a day trip through agave landscape.
Don't miss A tequila distillery tour in the agave fields, followed by birria and mariachi in Guadalajara that night.
Explore Destination — Guadalajara & TequilaCiudad de México, central Mexico, Mexico
One of the great cities of the world: Aztec ruins beside a baroque cathedral, Frida Kahlo's house, leafy Roma and Condesa, and a food scene that runs from street stalls to global fine dining.
Don't miss The National Museum of Anthropology and, after it, a plate of tacos al pastor at midnight.
Explore Destination — Mexico CityRead next
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