Jalisco State, western Mexico · Mexico
Mexico's second city, home of mariachi, charrería and birria, with a grand cathedral, Orozco's murals and the blue agave fields and distilleries of Tequila an hour away.
Photo: Juan Carlos Fonseca Mata · CC BY-SA 4.0
Guadalajara is the capital of Jalisco and the second-largest city in Mexico, and the home of the country's most iconic traditions: mariachi music, charrería (rodeo), the Mexican hat dance and tequila. It was founded in 1542, and its centre has a huge twin-spired cathedral, four large plazas and grand public buildings, and it remains a lively and prosperous, if less touristy, alternative to Mexico City.
Its greatest artistic monument is the Hospicio Cabañas, a neoclassical orphanage and hospital built in the early 1800s, whose chapel dome and walls are covered in murals by José Clemente Orozco. UNESCO listed it in 1997. Nearby, Tlaquepaque and Tonalá are craft villages of glass, ceramics and furniture, now absorbed into the metropolitan area.
About an hour north-west, the town of Tequila is surrounded by fields of blue agave, and the agave landscape and its distilleries were inscribed by UNESCO in 2006. A day there, with a distillery tour and a lunch, is one of the classic Mexican excursions.
Why visit
Guadalajara is a great city for food, music and crafts, and a gateway to tequila country.
Orozco's murals, especially the Man of Fire in the dome, are among the masterpieces of 20th-century Mexican art.
Guadalajara is the birthplace of mariachi, and Plaza de los Mariachis and Tlaquepaque are the best places to hear it.
Birria, tortas ahogadas and carne en su jugo are Guadalajara's specialities.
Agave fields, distilleries and a UNESCO landscape, with tastings at sources such as Jose Cuervo and small producers.
Tlaquepaque and Tonalá sell glass, pottery and furniture.
Main attractions
The centre takes a day, Tlaquepaque and Tonalá a half-day, and Tequila a full day.
The Metropolitan Cathedral, with its yellow spires, stands in the middle of four connected plazas, including the Plaza de la Liberación and the Rotonda de los Jaliscienses Ilustres.
Tip Walk the plazas in the evening.
A vast neoclassical complex of 23 courtyards, now a cultural centre, whose chapel is covered in Orozco's murals, including the Man of Fire.
Tip Lie on the benches to see the dome.
A baroque palace with an Orozco mural of Miguel Hidalgo, the priest who started the independence struggle.
Tip Free to enter.
One of the largest indoor markets in Latin America, with food, crafts and goods on multiple floors.
Tip Eat on the first floor.
Craft villages with blown glass, ceramics, furniture and jewellery, with restaurants and mariachi.
Tip Tonalá's markets are on Thursdays and Sundays.
A town of about 40,000 people surrounded by blue agave fields, with distilleries such as Jose Cuervo and Casa Herradura, and a tequila museum.
Tip Take a distillery tour and try a range.
Mexico's largest lake, about 50 km south, with lakeside towns that are popular with expats.
Tip Good for a relaxed day.
Things to do
Guadalajara is for eating, listening and drinking well.
A tourist train from Guadalajara to the distillery at Amatitán, with tastings and mariachi on board.
Tip Book ahead.
Try spiced goat or beef stew, served with tortillas and consommé.
Tip Try it at a local birrieria.
Plaza de los Mariachis, Tlaquepaque and Garibaldi have bands playing for tips.
Tip Agree the price per song.
Mexican rodeo shows at charro arenas on Sundays.
Tip Ask your hotel.
Browse galleries and craft shops, and have lunch.
Tip Go on a weekday.
See agave harvested by jimadores, baked and distilled.
Tip Choose a small producer.
Local food
Jalisco's food is robust and meat-heavy, with drinks to match.
Spiced goat or beef stew from Jalisco, served in a bowl or in tacos with consommé.
Where to try it Birrierias across the city.
A pork sandwich in a crusty roll, 'drowned' in a spicy tomato sauce.
Where to try it Stalls and markets.
Beef stew with beans and bacon, served in its own broth.
Where to try it Local restaurants.
Tequila is the region's spirit, and tejuino is a fermented corn drink served with lime and ice.
Where to try it Bars and street stands.
A custard-like dessert, and cajeta.
Where to try it Markets and bakeries.
Tacos, tostadas and elotes.
Where to try it Street stalls.
Accommodation
Stay in the centre or in the trendy Chapultepec and Providencia districts.
Transport
Guadalajara is about 550 km west of Mexico City.
The centre is walkable, and Uber and light rail cover the rest.
When to go
Guadalajara is at 1,550 m with a mild, dry winter and a rainy summer.
Dry and pleasant.
Warm and dry.
Heavy afternoon rain.
Clear and mild.
Worth planning around: Heavy rain in July and August.
Itinerary
The centre and murals on the first day, Tequila on the second, Tlaquepaque on the third.
Murals and markets.
Agave country.
Crafts and food.
Travel tips
Guadalajara is easy, and a few tips help.
FAQ
Three, including a day in Tequila.
Tourist areas are generally safe, but Jalisco state has seen serious cartel violence in some areas. Check your government's advice and use normal precautions.
Tequila is made only from blue agave and mainly in Jalisco. Mezcal can be made from many agave types and comes mostly from Oaxaca.
About 60 km, or one hour.
October to April for dry weather.
Yes, for Orozco's murals, one of the great sights in Mexico.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Guadalajara and Tequila, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
Guanajuato State, Bajío highlands, Mexico
A UNESCO-listed colonial city in a ravine, with baroque churches, winding alleys, underground tunnels, the Diego Rivera birthplace museum and a lively university atmosphere.
Don't miss The Callejón del Beso and the Pípila viewpoint, at dusk, as the hillside lights come on.
Explore Destination — GuanajuatoGuanajuato State, Bajío highlands, Mexico
A UNESCO-listed highland town of baroque churches, bougainvillea and galleries, with a big expatriate community, excellent restaurants and hot springs nearby.
Don't miss The pink spires of the Parroquia at sunset, from a rooftop bar on the Jardín.
Explore Destination — San Miguel de AllendeCiudad de México, central Mexico, Mexico
One of the great cities of the world: Aztec ruins beside a baroque cathedral, Frida Kahlo's house, leafy Roma and Condesa, and a food scene that runs from street stalls to global fine dining.
Don't miss The National Museum of Anthropology and, after it, a plate of tacos al pastor at midnight.
Explore Destination — Mexico CityRead next
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