Jerash Governorate, northern Jordan · Jordan
One of the best-preserved Roman provincial cities anywhere — a triumphal arch, a hippodrome, an oval forum and a mile of columned street.
Photo: Diego Delso · CC BY-SA 3.0
Jerash is the modern name of Gerasa, a city that flourished in the Roman and Byzantine periods and was one of the ten cities of the Decapolis, a league of Greek-speaking cities in the eastern Roman provinces. It was at its height in the 2nd century AD, when it was rebuilt on a grand scale with a paved and colonnaded main street, an oval forum, temples and theatres.
It survives unusually well because of what happened next. Earthquakes and a shift in trade routes left the city in decline, and it was gradually covered by sand and largely abandoned rather than built over. Excavations began in the 1920s and continue, and much of the site has been restored, making it one of the most complete Roman provincial cities in the Middle East.
The modern town of Jerash sits next to the ruins, and the site is a short drive from Amman. It is an easy half-day trip, though a full day lets you see the whole site and the museum at a comfortable pace.
Why visit
Jerash gives you a sense of a Roman city as a place where people lived, rather than as a scatter of foundations.
The paved Cardo Maximus runs for around 800 metres, lined with columns and marked by the ruts of cartwheels, with theatres, temples and a fountain still standing.
A triumphal arch built to welcome the emperor Hadrian in 129–130 AD, and a dramatic entrance to the site.
A large open forum with an unusual oval shape and a colonnade of Ionic columns, and one of the best photographs on the site.
An hour north of Amman by road, so it fits into a day trip or a stop on the way to the north.
It gets busy on weekends and holidays, but the site is large and it is easy to find quiet corners.
Main attractions
Enter at the south gate, walk north along the Cardo, and finish at the Northern Theatre. The site takes three to four hours.
A triple-arched gateway built in 129 AD to mark the emperor's visit. It stands at the southern edge of the site, next to a hippodrome that once seated around 15,000 spectators.
Tip Arrive here first for the best photographs, and see the hippodrome before the site gets busy.
A Roman chariot-racing track, restored in part and used for re-enactments of races and gladiator fights. It is one of the best-preserved in the region.
Tip Re-enactments have run on a set schedule at times; check when you visit.
The main street of the city runs north from the Oval Plaza, lined with Corinthian columns, shops and a monumental fountain, the Nymphaeum. Wheel ruts in the paving stones are still visible.
Tip Walk the full length in the morning light, and look at the drainage covers in the road.
A large temple to the city's patron goddess, with a monumental staircase and a portico of huge Corinthian columns. It is the most impressive building on the site.
Tip The temple is a short climb up steps. It is lovely in the late afternoon.
A well-preserved Roman theatre with room for about 3,000 people and excellent acoustics. Musicians sometimes play the bagpipes here for visitors.
Tip Sit at the top row and speak quietly. The acoustics are remarkable.
A smaller theatre near the north end of the site, used for council meetings and performances. It is much less visited than the South Theatre.
Tip Combine it with the Church of Saint Theodore and the other Byzantine churches nearby.
Several churches from the 5th and 6th centuries stand on the site, some with mosaic floors. They show Jerash's change from a pagan to a Christian city.
Tip Look for the mosaic floors in the Cathedral and the Church of Saint Cosmas and Damian.
Things to do
The ruins themselves take up most of a visit, but a few extras add to it.
Start at the south gate and walk north along the Cardo, taking in the Oval Plaza, the temples and the theatres. It is a gentle walk of about 3 km with almost no shade.
Tip Go on a weekday morning, and bring water and a hat.
A small museum near the Oval Plaza, with finds from the site and a good introduction to its history.
Tip Go before you walk the site, to give yourself context.
Re-enactments of Roman chariot races and legionary drill have been staged at the hippodrome in the past. They are aimed at tour groups and entertaining if not entirely serious.
Tip Check whether they are running and at what time.
Jerash has several good restaurants serving mansaf and grilled meats, and is a better choice for lunch than the cafés at the site.
Tip Ask for the daily special.
The annual Jerash Festival of Culture and Arts has traditionally been held in summer, with music, dance and theatre in the ruins. Dates and programmes vary, so check locally.
Tip Book accommodation early, as Amman hotels fill up.
Ajloun Castle is only 25 km west of Jerash, so the two can be combined in a long day.
Tip Start at Jerash early, and drive to Ajloun for lunch.
Local food
Jerash is a small town with a strong tradition of Jordanian home cooking. Lunch after the ruins is part of the visit.
The national dish, lamb in a dried-yoghurt sauce over rice, is served in traditional restaurants in the town.
Where to try it Restaurants near the main entrance to the site, and family-run places in Jerash town.
Kebabs, lamb chops and chicken grilled over charcoal and served with salads and bread. A dependable lunch.
Where to try it Grill restaurants on the main street of Jerash.
Standard, cheap and good, and a fine light lunch before or after a long walk.
Where to try it Stalls and small restaurants in the town centre.
Fresh-squeezed juice sold along the road and at the entrance. It is a good way to cool down.
Where to try it Juice stalls near the south gate.
The hills around Jerash are covered in olive groves, and oil and pickled olives are sold in shops and markets.
Where to try it The market in Jerash town and shops near the site.
Local sweet shops sell kunafa, baklava and other pastries.
Where to try it Sweet shops in the town.
Accommodation
Most visitors visit as a day trip from Amman, and few stay overnight. If you want to stay, choose between a small hotel near the site and one of the guesthouses in the countryside.
Transport
Jerash is about 50 km north of Amman. It is easy to reach by public transport or road.
Everything at the site is on foot. The town is small.
When to go
Jerash sits in the northern highlands, which are cooler and greener than the south. It is pleasant for most of the year, hot in summer and cold and sometimes rainy in winter.
Green hills, wildflowers among the ruins and warm, comfortable days.
Hot but drier than the coast. The site has little shade, so go in the early morning.
Warm, clear and quiet, with good light.
Cool and sometimes rainy, with few visitors. Bring a jacket.
Worth planning around: Midday in summer, and Friday and holiday weekends, when local families visit.
Itinerary
A morning walking the site, lunch in town and an afternoon side trip to Ajloun. Assumes a start from Amman.
The Roman city, then a castle.
Travel tips
Jerash is easy, and a few points help you make the most of it.
FAQ
Three to four hours for the main site. Add another hour for the museum and lunch in town, and more if you also want to visit Ajloun.
Yes. It is one of the best-preserved Roman cities in the region, with paved streets, temples and theatres, and it is only an hour from Amman.
Yes, and most visitors do. It takes about an hour each way by car or bus.
Yes. The Jordan Pass includes entry to Jerash and most of the country's major sites. Check the current terms.
Early morning, when it is cool and quiet, or the late afternoon when the light is warm. Avoid midday in summer.
Yes. The site is open and mostly flat, and children enjoy the hippodrome and the theatres. Bring plenty of water and a hat.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Jerash, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
Ajloun and Irbid governorates, northern Jordan, Jordan
Northern Jordan's green highlands: a 12th-century Ayyubid castle above forested hills, and a Decapolis hilltop town with a view across three countries.
Don't miss Umm Qais at sunset, with the black basalt columns of ancient Gadara in the foreground and the Sea of Galilee and the Golan Heights beyond.
Explore Destination — Ajloun & Umm QaisAmman Governorate, central Jordan, Jordan
Jordan's relaxed, layered capital, where Roman columns, Umayyad palaces and bustling souks sit beside cafés, galleries and a good museum.
Don't miss The Citadel at sunset, with the Temple of Hercules in the foreground and the white city spread across its hills below.
Explore Destination — AmmanMadaba Governorate, central Jordan, Jordan
A small Christian-majority town famous for Byzantine floor mosaics, and a nearby mountain that has drawn pilgrims for centuries.
Don't miss The Madaba Map, a Byzantine floor mosaic showing Jerusalem and the Holy Land, and the view from Mount Nebo across the Jordan Valley.
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