Amman Governorate, central Jordan · Jordan
A hilly capital with a Roman theatre in the middle of downtown, a hilltop citadel and some of the best falafel in the Middle East.
Photo: Bernard Gagnon · CC BY-SA 4.0
Amman is built on hills, and it began with a hill. The Citadel, Jabal al-Qal'a, has been occupied since the Bronze Age, and the city that grew below it was called Rabbath-Ammon, then Philadelphia under the Ptolemies and the Romans, and finally Amman. The Umayyads left a palace on the summit, and after centuries of neglect the city grew rapidly during the 20th century, as the capital of the new Hashemite kingdom and as a refuge for waves of people from across the region.
That history shows on the ground. A 6,000-seat Roman theatre sits in the middle of the old downtown, known as al-Balad, surrounded by souks, coffee shops and street-food stalls. Above it, the Citadel looks over a city that has spread across nineteen or so hills, and beyond it lie the cafés and galleries of Jabal Amman, Jabal al-Weibdeh and Abdoun.
Amman is not a beautiful city in the postcard sense, and it is not trying to be. It is a place to eat well, walk through layers of history, visit a good museum and get your bearings before heading to the desert, the Dead Sea or the north.
Why visit
Amman is the gateway to Jordan, and it is worth more than a night between flights.
The Roman Theatre dates from the 2nd century AD and is still used for concerts and events, with a small museum of Jordanian folklore in its wings.
A hilltop site with the remains of a Roman Temple of Hercules, a Byzantine church and an Umayyad palace complex, and the best viewpoint in the city.
Falafel, hummus, fuul, kunafa and mansaf are all done at a very high standard, and often cost less than a coffee elsewhere.
The Jordan Museum in Ras al-Ain displays some of the world's oldest known statues, the 9,000-year-old Ain Ghazal figures, along with fragments of the Dead Sea Scrolls.
Jerash, Madaba, Mount Nebo and the Dead Sea are all day trips of one to two hours, so you can stay in one hotel and go out each morning.
Main attractions
Downtown and the Citadel can be done in a day on foot, with the museum and Rainbow Street in the evenings or a second day.
The hill above downtown, home to the giant columns of the Temple of Hercules, a small archaeological museum, the ruined Byzantine church and the 8th-century Umayyad Palace with its domed audience hall.
Tip Go in the late afternoon for the light and the view, and combine it with the Roman Theatre before dinner.
A steeply raked theatre built in the 2nd century AD with room for around 6,000 people. A smaller Odeon sits alongside it, and two small museums are tucked into the wings.
Tip Climb to the top for a panorama over downtown, and go early in the day to avoid the heat.
The old centre of the city, a maze of shops, coffee stalls and market streets around the Husseini Mosque. It is busy, loud, and the best place to eat, drink coffee and watch daily life.
Tip Go in the evening, when the city comes out, and have a light stomach.
A large mosque with a blue mosaic dome, built in the 1980s. Non-Muslim visitors can enter outside prayer times, and a small museum inside covers the history of Islam.
Tip Dress modestly and remove your shoes. Women will be given a robe if needed.
Jordan's national museum, with the Ain Ghazal statues, Dead Sea Scroll fragments including the Copper Scroll, and displays covering the country's history from the Stone Age to the present.
Tip Allow two to three hours. It is a good place to visit before you go to Petra or Jerash.
A lively street on Jabal Amman with cafés, bookshops and restaurants, and a view over the old city. It is the most relaxed and international part of Amman.
Tip Go in the evening, and look for the side streets and stairs down to the downtown.
A hilltop neighbourhood of galleries, small cafés and murals, and the base for the city's arts scene. It is a good place for a quiet coffee and a walk.
Tip Look for the murals on the stairs and the Darat al-Funun gallery.
Things to do
Amman rewards wandering and eating, and it is at its best in the evening.
Downtown holds several no-frills restaurants that serve the same menu of falafel, hummus, fuul and bread that they have served for decades, at tables that often spill into the alley.
Tip Expect to queue at peak times, and order too much.
The view over the city at golden hour is the best in Amman, and the Temple of Hercules is stunning in the light.
Tip Arrive an hour before sunset so you have time to see the museum first.
The gold souk, the spice sellers, the vegetable market and the coffee sellers are all within a few streets of the theatre.
Tip Bargain politely for anything that does not have a marked price.
A few traditional hammams operate in and around the city and offer a scrub and massage in a historic setting.
Tip Book ahead and check whether there are separate times for men and women.
Jerash is an hour north, the Dead Sea 45 minutes south-west, and Madaba and Mount Nebo about 40 minutes south. All are easy with a hire car or a driver.
Tip Combine Madaba, Mount Nebo and the Dead Sea for a single long day.
Traditional coffee houses across the city serve tea and coffee, and locals play cards, backgammon and dominoes for hours.
Tip Try Turkish coffee, ask for it medium sweet, and do not stir it.
Local food
Amman's food is the best introduction to Jordanian cooking. The city has an unusually high standard of cheap eating, and the real specialities are simple.
Crisp falafel, warm hummus with olive oil, fuul and fresh bread. The heart of a Jordanian breakfast and a classic lunch.
Where to try it The old downtown, where crowded, no-frills places have served the same menu for decades.
Lamb cooked in dried fermented yoghurt and served with rice and bread. Traditionally eaten on special occasions, and now in restaurants.
Where to try it Traditional restaurants in Jabal Amman and Abdoun; ask for a half portion if you are alone.
A warm cheese pastry soaked in syrup and topped with pistachio. It is eaten hot from the tray and often bought by weight.
Where to try it Long-established sweet shops downtown.
Marinated chicken or lamb carved from a spit into flatbread with garlic sauce and pickles. It is a cheap and ubiquitous street-food staple.
Where to try it Stalls and small shops throughout the city.
A one-pot dish of rice, chicken or lamb and vegetables, turned upside down onto a platter. It is a home-cooked favourite.
Where to try it Home-style restaurants on the side streets of Jabal Amman.
Fresh-squeezed orange, pomegranate and carrot juice sold from stalls, and small cups of cardamom coffee in cafés.
Where to try it Downtown stalls and any traditional café.
Accommodation
Choose between the atmosphere of downtown, the café culture of Jabal Amman and Weibdeh, and the polish of Abdoun and the western hotels. All are within 20 minutes of each other.
Transport
Amman is the main gateway to Jordan. Queen Alia International Airport is about 35 km south of the city.
Amman is hilly and spread out, and public transport is limited. Taxis and ride-hailing apps are the practical choice.
When to go
Amman sits at about 900 m and has a mild climate compared with the south. It is pleasant for much of the year, with hot summers and cool, sometimes wet winters.
Warm, sunny days and cool evenings. The hills are green after winter rain, and it is comfortable for walking.
Hot by day but often cooler than the south, with dry heat and pleasant evenings. It is manageable if you plan for early mornings and long lunches.
Warm days and mild nights, with fewer crowds. Excellent for exploring on foot.
Cold and wet, with occasional snow. Bring a coat, and expect fewer visitors and lower prices.
Worth planning around: Public holidays and Ramadan afternoons, when many restaurants and shops close early or open later.
Itinerary
The Citadel, Roman Theatre and downtown on the first day, and the museum and neighbourhoods on the second. Assumes a hotel in Jabal Amman or downtown.
History, food and sunset.
A slower day.
Travel tips
Amman is an easy and friendly city, and a few habits help.
FAQ
Two is enough for the Citadel, the Roman Theatre, downtown, the museum and a couple of good meals. Add extra days if you want to use the city as a base for Jerash, Madaba and the Dead Sea.
Amman is generally regarded as safe for visitors, with low levels of violent crime. Normal precautions apply, particularly against pickpockets in crowded areas. Check your government's current travel advice.
Jabal Amman or Jabal al-Weibdeh for cafés, culture and walkability, or downtown for atmosphere and cheap food. Abdoun and western Amman suit those who want modern hotels.
Yes, outside prayer times. Dress modestly, remove your shoes at the entrance, and expect to be given a robe if you need one. Check current opening hours locally.
By taxi (fixed price), the Airport Express bus or a pre-arranged transfer. It takes about 40 minutes without traffic. Ride-hailing apps also work at the airport.
Amman is a good base for day trips to Jerash, Madaba and Mount Nebo, and the Dead Sea. All are between 45 minutes and 90 minutes by road.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Amman, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
Jerash Governorate, northern Jordan, Jordan
The ancient Decapolis city of Gerasa, with its arch, theatres, temples and colonnaded street still standing an hour north of Amman.
Don't miss The Oval Plaza and the Cardo, where a column-lined Roman street runs on for several hundred metres, still rutted by chariot wheels.
Explore Destination — JerashMadaba Governorate, central Jordan, Jordan
A small Christian-majority town famous for Byzantine floor mosaics, and a nearby mountain that has drawn pilgrims for centuries.
Don't miss The Madaba Map, a Byzantine floor mosaic showing Jerusalem and the Holy Land, and the view from Mount Nebo across the Jordan Valley.
Explore Destination — Madaba & Mount NeboBalqa and Madaba governorates, western Jordan, Jordan
A salt lake about 430 metres below sea level with spa hotels, mineral mud, hot springs, a canyon walk and the traditional site of the baptism of Jesus.
Don't miss Floating on your back in water too salty to sink in, with the hills of the West Bank across the water.
Explore Destination — The Dead SeaRead next
Food
Eating well abroad is mostly a matter of knowing when meals happen, how the menu is structured and which dish belongs to the place you are standing in. This covers all three for the five countries in this guide, plus the signals that separate a restaurant that feeds locals from one that feeds coaches.
Where to go
The most visited place in a country is rarely its best, and it is almost never its best value. This is a method for finding the destinations that do not make the postcards — and a set of examples from five of the 50 countries on this site.
Advertisement
