Ajloun and Irbid governorates, northern Jordan · Jordan
A hilltop castle built against the Crusaders in green oak forest, and a Roman city of black basalt looking over the Sea of Galilee.
Photo: Samir I. Sharbaty · CC BY-SA 3.0
Northern Jordan is greener than most visitors expect. The highlands above the Jordan Valley catch enough rainfall to support oak, pine and pistachio forest, olive groves and orchards, and the landscape is more Mediterranean than desert. Two sites stand out: the castle at Ajloun and the ancient city of Gadara, now the village of Umm Qais.
Ajloun Castle, known in Arabic as Qal'at ar-Rabad, was built in 1184–85 by Izz ad-Din Usama, a general of Saladin, on the top of a hill overlooking the Jordan Valley. It was a lookout and a link in a chain of signal fires and pigeon posts that connected Saladin's territories against the Crusaders, and it was rebuilt by the Mamluks in the 13th century after the Mongols damaged it.
Umm Qais, 45 km further north, sits on a ridge above the Yarmouk River and was one of the ten cities of the Decapolis. Its ruins are built of black basalt, giving it a very different character from the pale limestone of Jerash. From its terraces you can see the Sea of Galilee, the Golan Heights and the hills of northern Israel, in one of the most striking views in the country.
Why visit
This is a gentle, green part of Jordan, and a good contrast to the desert in the south.
Ajloun's hilltop fortress is surrounded by oak and pine, and its towers and vaulted rooms are well preserved. The views from the top stretch across the Jordan Valley.
Gadara's theatre, colonnaded street and church are built of dark volcanic stone, and the effect is dramatic, especially in the low light of late afternoon.
Umm Qais overlooks the Sea of Galilee, the Golan Heights and the Yarmouk valley, and on a clear day, Mount Hermon.
The Ajloun Forest Reserve has marked trails through woodland, and the region's mild climate makes it attractive for walking.
Most travellers head south, so the north is quiet, and local people are keen to welcome visitors.
Main attractions
Ajloun and Umm Qais are 45 km apart, so a day trip takes in both, with time for lunch in between.
A compact fortress with thick walls, towers and a network of vaulted chambers, built in the 1180s and expanded later. From the roof you can see across to the Jordan Valley and, on a clear day, the Sea of Galilee.
Tip Go at opening, when it is quiet, and combine with a walk through the forest.
A protected area of oak, pistachio and strawberry-tree woodland, managed by the Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature. It has marked trails, a small visitor centre and a few basic cabins.
Tip Trails are best in spring and autumn, and you can arrange a guide at the reserve.
A ruined Byzantine church on a hill said to be the birthplace of the prophet Elijah, a site of Christian pilgrimage. The views over the hills are good.
Tip It is reached by a short drive from Ajloun, and is best visited with a local guide.
A hilltop town with a basalt theatre, a colonnaded street, a Byzantine church and a nymphaeum. Much of the site is unrestored, giving it a quiet, unfinished character.
Tip Go in the late afternoon, when the light on the dark stone is best.
A terrace at the edge of the site with a panoramic view of the Sea of Galilee, the Golan Heights and Mount Hermon. There is a small café.
Tip Stay for sunset, and bring a light jacket.
One of the oldest continuously inhabited sites in the Jordan Valley, with ruins from the Bronze Age to the Islamic period, including Roman and Byzantine churches.
Tip It is off the main route, so visit with a driver.
An old Ottoman-period village of black stone houses within the archaeological site, including a small museum in a former governor's residence.
Tip Look for the mosaics in the museum.
Things to do
The main activity is sightseeing at a leisurely pace, and a few extras help fill the day.
Explore the corridors, staircases and towers, then climb to the roof for the view. The castle takes about an hour and a half.
Tip Bring a torch, as some of the passages are dark.
A network of marked trails runs through the reserve, from short strolls to half-day hikes, with wildflowers in spring.
Tip Ask at the visitor centre about routes and guides.
The sun sinks over the hills of the Galilee and the sea turns gold. It is a peaceful and beautiful moment.
Tip Bring a jacket, and arrive an hour before sunset.
Several restaurants at Umm Qais and along the road serve Jordanian food on terraces overlooking the lake.
Tip Ask for the daily special.
A quiet archaeological site in the Jordan Valley with ruins spanning thousands of years and no crowds.
Tip Combine it with a drive along the Jordan Valley.
A few families and RSCN-run cabins offer overnight stays with home cooking, an unusual and personal way to see the north.
Tip Book in advance.
Local food
Northern Jordan is agricultural, and its food reflects that: olive oil, fresh vegetables, herbs and farm-produced cheese.
The upside-down rice, meat and vegetable dish is a specialty of the north, and locals will often insist you try it.
Where to try it Home-style restaurants in Ajloun and Umm Qais.
Lamb in a dried-yoghurt sauce, served over rice. The classic Jordanian celebration dish.
Where to try it Restaurants in Ajloun town and at Umm Qais.
The hills around Ajloun are covered in olive groves, and the oil is excellent. Look for it in local shops.
Where to try it Shops and stalls in Ajloun and the villages.
Strained yoghurt, often rolled in herbs and olive oil, and white cheese, served with fresh bread.
Where to try it Breakfast at guesthouses and local cafés.
In summer and autumn, the orchards produce figs, grapes, pomegranates and apples, which are sold at roadside stands.
Where to try it Roadside stalls.
Fresh flatbread baked with olive oil and the herb mix za'atar, a simple and delicious breakfast.
Where to try it Bakeries in Ajloun.
Accommodation
Most visitors go as a day trip from Amman or Jerash, but staying nearby gives you the forest and the quiet evenings.
Transport
Ajloun is about 75 km from Amman and Umm Qais about 110 km. A car or a driver is easiest.
Both sites are on foot once you arrive, and the region needs a vehicle between them.
When to go
The north has a Mediterranean climate, with mild springs and autumns, warm summers and cool, wet winters. Spring is greenest.
Green hills, wildflowers and comfortable temperatures. The best time for walking.
Warm and dry, and cooler than the south. Visit in the morning and evening.
Warm, clear and quiet, with the olive harvest in October and November.
Cold, wet and misty, occasionally with snow. The castle is atmospheric in the mist.
Worth planning around: Days of heavy rain or snow, when roads may be affected and views are lost.
Itinerary
Ajloun Castle in the morning, lunch at Umm Qais and sunset over the Sea of Galilee. Assumes a driver from Amman.
A castle, a Roman town and a sunset.
Travel tips
The north is quiet and easy, and a few points help.
FAQ
Yes. It is a well-preserved Ayyubid fortress with fine views, in attractive forest. It takes about an hour and a half, and pairs well with Jerash.
The ancient city of Gadara is built of black basalt, unlike most Roman sites, and it sits on a ridge with views across the Sea of Galilee, the Golan Heights and the Yarmouk valley.
Yes, but it is a long day, with about four hours of driving in total. Combining Ajloun with Jerash is easier, and Umm Qais deserves a separate trip or an overnight stay.
The tourist sites are regarded as safe, but Umm Qais lies close to the borders with Israel and Syria. Check your government's current travel advice and avoid photographing military areas.
March to May for green hills and wildflowers, and September to November for warm, clear weather. Summer is hot but cooler than the south.
Yes. The Ajloun Forest Reserve has marked trails, and the Jordan Trail passes through the north. Check with the reserve for routes and guides.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Ajloun and Umm Qais, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
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Don't miss The Oval Plaza and the Cardo, where a column-lined Roman street runs on for several hundred metres, still rutted by chariot wheels.
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