Tafilah Governorate, southern Jordan · Jordan
Jordan's largest nature reserve — a stone village on a cliff edge above a wadi that drops from juniper hills to desert, walked in a day and slept in by candlelight.
Photo: Bernard Gagnon · CC BY-SA 3.0
Dana is Jordan's largest nature reserve, covering about 320 square kilometres on the edge of the Rift Valley. It is managed by the Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature (RSCN), and its landscapes change dramatically as they fall from around 1,500 m above sea level in the mountains to about 50 m below it on the floor of Wadi Araba. In that drop it passes through four different bio-geographical zones, from cool juniper hills to sandstone canyons and desert.
At the top of the reserve sits the village of Dana, a cluster of old stone houses on a cliff edge that was largely abandoned by its residents in the late 20th century. It has been restored in part, and it looks over the wadi below. At the bottom is Wadi Feynan, an ancient copper-mining area with Neolithic and Roman remains, and the Feynan Ecolodge, an award-winning, solar-powered lodge run with local Bedouin communities.
The wildlife includes Nubian ibex, red foxes, hyenas and a wide variety of birds, though most visitors see only a fraction of it. The real draw is the walking, the quiet and the sense of being in a landscape untouched by traffic.
Why visit
Dana is one of the few places in Jordan where the appeal is the land itself and not the ruins.
The Dana–Feynan trail runs for about 16 km downhill through juniper woodland, canyon and desert, and it is a full and satisfying day.
Dana village clings to the edge of a huge valley, with stone houses, a small mosque and a view that changes with the light.
The reserve and the Feynan Ecolodge are run in partnership with local communities, and your money goes directly to them.
There are few visitors and almost no light pollution. The night sky is superb.
Only an hour from Petra by road, so it is an easy way to add a different kind of day to the itinerary.
Main attractions
Dana is a place for walking, and its attractions are landscapes and small places, rather than monuments.
A restored 15th-century village of stone houses on a ridge above the Dana Valley, with a small guesthouse, a craft shop and a viewpoint. Most of the original residents moved down to a modern settlement.
Tip Stay a night if you can. The village is at its best at dawn and dusk.
A one-way walk of about 16 km, dropping from Dana village to Wadi Feynan via a series of wadis and ridges. It takes five to seven hours.
Tip You need a guide, and you must book through the RSCN or a licensed operator.
A remote lodge lit by candles and powered by solar energy, at the foot of the reserve. It is run in partnership with a Bedouin community and is a highlight of the reserve.
Tip Book well in advance, especially for spring and autumn.
A simple campsite set among the juniper trees a short walk from the village, with tents and shared facilities. It is a good budget option.
Tip Open in the main seasons only; check with the RSCN.
The ruins of one of the oldest copper-mining areas in the world, with remains of Neolithic, Bronze Age and Roman workings. It is close to the lodge and can be visited on a guided walk.
Tip Ask at the lodge about guided walks to the mines.
Several other trails, including the challenging Wadi Ghuweir trail, that lead through narrow canyons with pools and rock formations.
Tip All routes need a guide, and some involve scrambling.
The reserve is home to rare species, including the Nubian ibex, Arabian wolf and striped hyena, although you are unlikely to see them. Bird-watching is good, especially in spring and autumn.
Tip Go with a guide and bring binoculars.
Things to do
Most activities in Dana involve walking, and it is best to book through the reserve and its partners.
Start early from Dana village and walk downhill to Feynan, with a vehicle waiting for you at the end or your luggage taken ahead.
Tip Carry more water than you think you need.
A night in a candle-lit room with a rooftop for stargazing, and a good vegetarian dinner. Activities include guided walks, a visit to a Bedouin family and a sunrise hike.
Tip Book months ahead in spring and autumn.
The lodge arranges visits to local families for tea, bread and conversation, a way to meet the community that runs the reserve.
Tip Bring small gifts, such as fruit or sweets, if you are invited into a home.
With no artificial light for miles, the sky is spectacular. Some lodges run guided stargazing sessions.
Tip Bring a warm layer; nights are cold.
The reserve's workshops produce silver jewellery, dried-fruit products and soap, sold in the village. The proceeds support local women.
Tip These make good, ethical gifts.
Dana lies about an hour north of Petra. It can be an overnight stop on the way from Amman, or a second stage after a day at Petra.
Tip A night in Dana between Amman and Petra is a good way to break up the journey.
Local food
The food at Dana and Feynan is simple, seasonal and largely vegetarian, cooked by local communities.
A buffet of local vegetarian dishes, including salads, stuffed vegetables and bread baked in the lodge's oven. It is a highlight of the stay.
Where to try it At the Feynan Ecolodge, included in the room price.
Thin flat bread baked on a hot metal dome or in embers.
Where to try it At breakfast in local homes and the lodge.
Locally produced dried apricots, figs and jams, made by women in the village and sold in the craft shop.
Where to try it The Dana village craft shop.
Hot black tea infused with wild sage, served everywhere.
Where to try it In the village and at the lodge.
Simple and fresh, served with olive oil and bread.
Where to try it The village guesthouse.
Made in the region and sold in the shops.
Where to try it The village and Tafilah market.
Accommodation
Options are limited, and this is part of the appeal. Book in advance for the busy seasons.
Transport
Dana is about 200 km south of Amman, off the King's Highway. It is remote, and a car or a driver is the practical way to reach it.
Everything in the reserve is on foot, or by transfer with the lodges.
When to go
The best conditions for walking are in spring and autumn. Summer is hot at the bottom of the reserve, and winter can be cold and wet in the mountains.
Warm, clear days and wildflowers. The best time for walking and the busiest.
The trail is hot and shadeless at the lower end. Walking is not advised in the heat, and Dana village is cooler.
October and November are ideal, with warm days, cool evenings and clear light.
Cold in Dana village and the upper trail, with occasional rain and snow. Feynan is warmer. Trails may be closed after heavy rain.
Worth planning around: Midday in summer, and the days after heavy rain, when flash floods are possible in the wadis.
Itinerary
A night in the village, the Dana–Feynan trail on the second day, and a night at the ecolodge. Assumes a car or a driver.
The village and the view.
A full day on foot.
Travel tips
Dana is remote and simple, and these tips help you get the most from it.
FAQ
Yes. Most trails in the reserve require a guide, who can be booked through the Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature or your accommodation. It is safer, and it supports local people.
About 16 km, and it takes five to seven hours at a steady pace. It is mostly downhill, but the terrain is uneven.
Yes, especially for walkers and anyone who wants a quiet, natural counterpoint to Petra and Wadi Rum. It is remote and takes some planning.
Yes, from Petra, but staying a night is much better. The village is at its best at dawn and dusk.
A remote lodge at the bottom of the reserve, powered by solar energy and lit by candles at night. It is run with a Bedouin community and is regularly praised for its sustainability.
March to May and October to November. Summer is hot at the lower end, and winter can be cold and wet.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Dana, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
Ma'an Governorate, southern Jordan, Jordan
The Nabataean capital that the desert hid from the West for centuries, with tombs, temples, a theatre and a colonnaded street cut from the sandstone of a hidden valley.
Don't miss The Monastery — an 800-step climb to a rock-cut facade almost as large as the Treasury, with a fraction of the crowd.
Explore Destination — PetraKerak and Ma'an governorates, southern Jordan, Jordan
Two of the best-preserved medieval castles in the Middle East, built by the Crusaders in the 12th century and fought over by Saladin and the Mamluks.
Don't miss Kerak's underground galleries and corridors, a vaulted labyrinth that you can explore with a torch.
Explore Destination — Kerak & Shobak CastlesAqaba Governorate, southern Jordan, Jordan
A protected desert of sandstone and granite that looks like another planet, explored by jeep, camel or on foot, and slept in under the stars.
Don't miss A night in a Bedouin camp, with a zarb dinner from the sand oven and a sky with almost no light pollution.
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