Maranhão, north-east Brazil · Brazil
A landscape of rolling white sand dunes filled with turquoise rainwater lagoons, like bedsheets thrown across the coast, at its most spectacular in the middle of the year.
Photo: Paulo Cattelan · CC BY-SA 4.0
The Lençóis Maranhenses National Park is a strip of coastline in the state of Maranhão, about 70 km long and 50 km deep, where huge white sand dunes roll inland from the Atlantic. The name means the bedsheets of Maranhão, from the way the dunes look like sheets spread across the land. It is not a desert, since the region receives heavy rain from January to June, and the water collects in hollows between the dunes, forming thousands of lagoons that can be several metres deep.
The lagoons are at their fullest from about June to September, when the water is a striking blue or green against white sand, and in the dry months from November to January many dry out. The dunes are made of quartz sand blown from the coast, and they move each year with the wind. Fish arrive in the lagoons from the rivers and the sea, and survive the dry season buried in the mud as eggs.
The park is remote and uncrowded. Most visitors base themselves at Barreirinhas, the gateway town, or at small villages such as Santo Amaro and Atins, and explore the dunes on 4x4 tours or on foot. It is a landscape that photographs superbly, and a good addition to a longer trip in north-east Brazil.
Why visit
Lençóis Maranhenses is a uniquely beautiful landscape, and one of the great natural wonders of Brazil.
Wave after wave of white sand with clear lagoons between them.
The lagoons are safe and warm, ideal for a swim.
Far from large crowds and cities.
Boat trips on the Preguiças River and the Atlantic coast.
4x4 tours, multi-day hikes and kitesurfing.
Main attractions
There are several entry points to the park, each with a different style of visit.
Two of the best-known lagoons, near Barreirinhas, reached by 4x4 and a short walk through the dunes.
Tip Go at sunset for the light and cooler temperatures.
A small village on the eastern edge of the dunes, with lagoons that can be reached on foot from the village, and a quiet atmosphere.
Tip A good base for multi-day treks.
A river trip from Barreirinhas past mangroves, dunes, the fishing village of Mandacaru and the Vassouras dunes, ending at the lighthouse.
Tip Bring a hat and sunscreen.
A remote beach village at the river mouth, with kitesurfing, fresh fish and quiet dunes right at the coast.
Tip Best reached by boat or 4x4.
The dunes change colour as the sun sets, and the lagoons reflect the sky. It is the most popular time for tours.
Tip Bring a flashlight for the walk back.
Things to do
Tours and guides are the main way to see the dunes.
Wade and swim in warm, clear water, in the middle of the dunes.
Tip Go from June to September.
A bumpy ride to the lagoons, with time to walk and swim.
Tip Book a small group.
The Travessia is a walk across the dunes from Atins to Santo Amaro, with overnight stays in villages.
Tip Go with a guide.
See mangroves, monkeys and dunes from a boat.
Tip Book a half- or full-day trip.
Strong, steady winds make the coast a kite destination.
Tip Best from August to December.
A small-plane flight gives a view of the lagoons.
Tip Book in advance.
Local food
Maranhão's food is fish- and shellfish-based, with regional specialities.
Rice with a paste of roasted sesame seeds, sorrel and dried shrimp, a Maranhão speciality.
Where to try it Local restaurants.
Grilled or fried, with rice and beans.
Where to try it Riverside restaurants.
A shrimp pie.
Where to try it Restaurants in Barreirinhas.
Local açaí, eaten as a thick bowl.
Where to try it Cafés.
Juices and local cachaça.
Where to try it Bars.
Accommodation
Stay in Barreirinhas or in villages near the park.
Transport
Barreirinhas is about 260 km east of São Luís, the state capital.
Tours are the main way to move, since the park is roadless.
When to go
The rainy season from January to June fills the lagoons, which are at their fullest between June and September, and start to dry from October.
Rain fills the lagoons, but skies can be cloudy.
Lagoons full, skies clear and days sunny.
Lagoons shrink, with hot, windy weather.
Many lagoons are dry.
Worth planning around: November to January, when most lagoons have dried up.
Itinerary
A dune tour, a river trip and a day for the coast.
Settle in.
Lagoons at sunset.
Preguiças River.
Travel tips
A few tips help you get the best from the dunes.
FAQ
From about June to September, after the rainy season.
Three days is enough for the dunes, river and coast.
No. It receives heavy rain, which fills the lagoons.
Yes. They are safe, warm and clear.
Fly to São Luís, then take a van or car to Barreirinhas, about 3 to 4 hours.
Most areas require a tour or guide, since the dunes are confusing.
Keep exploring
Places that pair well with Lençóis Maranhenses, whether you have a few spare days or are building a longer route.
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Don't miss The Baía do Sancho at sunrise, reached down a cliff-side ladder to an empty crescent of sand.
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Don't miss Night falling over the Pelourinho, with drums echoing off the pastel facades and baianas selling acarajé.
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Don't miss Gliding by canoe through flooded forest at dawn, with monkeys calling and the river black as coffee.
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